{"title":"Yarn level simulation of warp-knitted clothing elements – first results and challenges","authors":"Haisang Liu, Y. Kyosev, G. Jiang","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p115-126","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p115-126","url":null,"abstract":"To simulate a warp-knitted product with a specific shape, a mesh-based model for modeling and simulation is proposed. The three-dimensional geometry of the final fabric is represented as a set of polygons, each of them containing information about the 3D orientation of the yarns in the warp knitted structure. Using spatial mapping, stitch coordinates are transformed from the flat mesh model to the three-dimensional mesh model and the final rendering is accomplished. The method provides yarn level data for the complete structure and can be used for speeding up the design process of clothing with warp-knitted products. Several challenges with the larger data amount and possible ways for their solutions are discussed.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129003183","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
He Peng Fei, V. Arumugam, Aleksander Góra, V. Lipik
{"title":"Influence of polyester fabric with infrared emissive additives on cell metabolism","authors":"He Peng Fei, V. Arumugam, Aleksander Góra, V. Lipik","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p104-114","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p104-114","url":null,"abstract":"Functional fabrics with effects of influencing the metabolism and energy supplying are of great interest and may extensively be applied in wellness and sport apparel. In this work, three different combinations of additives such as silicon oxide doped with 10% of iron oxide III, 10% of graphene and 10% calcium hydroxyapatite were prepared, each combination was compounded separately with polyester, and pellets were extruded with additive weight around 4%. Melt spun multifilament yarns (130D/48f) were produced from the prepared pellets. Further, three knitted fabrics from a yarn with additives and one control fabric from the yarn without additives were developed for comparison and analysis. Infrared emissivity test result showed that fabrics with functional additives have significantly higher effective emissivity (0.997 to 1.006) than the reference fabric (0.909) for wavelength 5-14 µm. Moreover, spectral emissivity of fabrics with additives are relatively high at peak human IR emission wavelength (8-14 µm). As a key signal molecule that is involved in certain physiological pathways, nitric oxide (NO) generation was assessed by co-culturing with human skeletal muscle cells (HMSCs). It is observed that selected additives in the fabric lead to 15%-40% increase of nitrite levels in muscle cells after 24 and 72 hours of exposure and the best among them were graphene containing additives. Besides, it is also discovered that additives in the fabric increase mitochondrial biogenesis, which is proved by the increase of mitochondrial copy number by a factor of 1.25. The mitochondrial biogenesis may be a possible pathway activated by nitric oxide and potentially accelerate the energy expenditure. The observations in the cell study indicated the potential biological effects of the fabric with selected functional additives.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"51 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126990464","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Gilda Santos, Rita Marques, Francisca Marques, João Ribeiro, André Fonseca, João M. Miranda, João B. L. M. Campos, Soraia F. Neves
{"title":"An innovative thermal protective clothing system for firefighters","authors":"Gilda Santos, Rita Marques, Francisca Marques, João Ribeiro, André Fonseca, João M. Miranda, João B. L. M. Campos, Soraia F. Neves","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p146-155","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p146-155","url":null,"abstract":"Nowadays, despite the evolution of personal protective equipment (PPE), the number of firefighters injured and burned during fire extinguishing operations is still very high, leading in some cases to loss of life. Therefore, the research and development of new solutions to minimize firefighters’ heat load and skin burns, with consecutive improvements of commercial firefighters’ suits, is of extreme importance. The integration of phase change materials (PCMs) in a protective clothing system has been used to significantly reduce the incoming heat flux from the fire environment. This study consists in the development of a protective clothing system composed by a vest, specially designed to protect the torso (back, chest and abdomen) with a layer of PCM pouches, to be worn over a fire-resistant jacket – selection and design based on numerical models’ predictions. Therefore, several mockups were made, varying the number of PCM pouches and their distribution in the vest, allowing the creation of air ducts to increase the breathability of the vest. The most promising solutions are being evaluated in a real controlled environment, at a Portuguese National School of Firefighters (ENB) simulation site, using a fire manikin and thermocouples to monitor vest temperature during heat and flame exposure, and consequently to verify PCMs influence in heat protection. Results regarding the development of a PCM vest will be presented, focusing on the integration of PCM pouches and the thermal performance of the most promising solutions.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"72 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-09-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129754074","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Treatment of Kynol fiber materials – Part 2: antistatic and water-repellent functionalization","authors":"Juan Wang, B. Mahltig","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p62-71","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p62-71","url":null,"abstract":"Kynol fibers are flame retardant high performance fibers. Without further treatment they do not exhibit significant antistatic or water-repellent properties. With this background, several conventional antistatic agents and one hydrophobic finishing agent are evaluated to introduce these properties to Kynol fiber materials. Also, the combination of both properties is investigated to realize bifunctional fiber materials. By application of antistatic finishing agents, the electric surface resistance of Kynol fiber materials can be decreased to values smaller 108 W, which is a good value related to antistatic properties. By application of the hydrophobic agent, water repellent properties can be introduced to Kynol fiber materials. However, simultaneously the antistatic properties are decreased. The combination of both types of agents in a kind of bifunctional finishing can lead to intermediate antistatic effects combined with an intermediate water repellency. Nevertheless, in bifunctional application no single excellent property is gained. The flame retardant properties are tested on selected samples after the finishing processes. No change in flame retardant properties is determined, if the finishing agents are applied. For this, the presented results can be the starting point for development of functionalized flame retardant Kynol fiber products.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"54 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128775363","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Kristina Klinkhammer, Karin Ratovo, O. Heß, E. Bendt, T. Grethe, M. Krieg, M. Sturm, T. Weide, B. Mahltig
{"title":"Reduction of radiation transmission through functionalization of textiles from man-made cellulosic fibers","authors":"Kristina Klinkhammer, Karin Ratovo, O. Heß, E. Bendt, T. Grethe, M. Krieg, M. Sturm, T. Weide, B. Mahltig","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p51-61","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p51-61","url":null,"abstract":"Both ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) light have negative impact on the human health. With this background it is the main aim of the current research to realize a textile material which is able to protect against both UV light and IR light. For this research, regenerated cellulosic fibers from the Lyocell process are used and modified. Main analytical investigations are done by photo-spectroscopy in arrangement of diffuse transmission for the spectral range from 220 nm to 1400 nm. Additionally, microscopic investigations are done by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). For material development, Lyocell fibers functionalized with TiO2 particles are first processed into yarns and then into knitted fabrics. Compared to non-functionalized textiles, the transmission is reduced in the UV range due to the absorption behavior of TiO2. Subsequent dyeing with anthraquinone or reactive dyes enhanced the UV protective effect. To reduce the transmission in the near IR range (NIR), non-functionalized Lyocell knitted fabrics are functionalized with various IR absorbers in different concentrations. With increasing concentration, the transmission decreased. However, a grey coloration of the textile is observed simultaneously, with increased concentration. This must be considered in further processing steps. With these methods for functionalization, it is possible to produce textiles that offer increased protection against UV and IR radiation. These are promising materials for the production of clothing or work wear.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-05-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"130394052","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
B. Quattelbaum, C. Breckenfelder, Jens Voigt, Leonie Maas
{"title":"Possibilities and limits of virtual and augmented reality in the purchase decision process for clothing","authors":"B. Quattelbaum, C. Breckenfelder, Jens Voigt, Leonie Maas","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p42-50","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p42-50","url":null,"abstract":"This paper examines the influence of virtual and augmented reality on the purchasing decision-making process for clothing. The aim of the study is to gain well-founded insights into the possibilities and limitations of using virtual and augmented reality (VR and AR) techniques in that process. It can be shown that VR and AR applications as interactive systems can offer valuable support in the purchasing decision-making process. New chances and possibilities arise for future shopping in virtual or augmented realities, in which customers are supported in their decision-making. So far, the simulation of visual properties, the limited range of offered pieces, the lack of customer acceptance as well as high barriers to entry and expensive hardware solutions have weakened the full exploitation of potential.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"14 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"124799442","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
L. Chertenko, T. Spahiu, T. Lypskyi, Henrique Almeida, Olexander Bondar
{"title":"Developing lasts with removable toe parts for customized footwear","authors":"L. Chertenko, T. Spahiu, T. Lypskyi, Henrique Almeida, Olexander Bondar","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p28-41","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p28-41","url":null,"abstract":"The scope of this work is to develop lasts with a removable toe part as one of the ways to optimize the range of lasts while maintaining a high level of conformity of the last shape to the individual measurements of the feet of customers. For this purpose, the sectional plane separating the toe part of different shapes and styles from the main back part, which corresponds to the measurements of the foot, is determined by the area of minimal deviations of the parameters of feet shapes and lasts in different 3D models. The interchange of toe parts between different lasts is carried out under the condition of a small difference between their major parameters when it is possible to perform the averaging of the shapes and dimensions of the sectional plane of different lasts without reducing the ergonomics of their shapes. The segmentation plane divides the last body in such a way that the removable toe parts can be attached to the main back parts of the lasts of different styles and forms, as well as with different heel heights, which increases the use efficiency of the replaceable elements","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"170 12","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-04-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"120919532","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Treatment of Kynol fiber materials – Part 1: dyeing processes","authors":"Juan Wang, B. Mahltig","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p17-27","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p17-27","url":null,"abstract":"Kynol fibers are excellent flame-retardant materials used for manifold applications. These fibers exhibit originally an orange coloration. Up to now, dyeing processes for Kynol fibers are less reported, and the functionalization of these fibers by finishing processes is less investigated. With this background, the main aim of this paper is the evaluation of different dyeing processes for Kynol fiber materials – a woven fabric and a non-woven material. The following types of dyestuff are evaluated – direct dyes, vat dyes, disperse dyes and color pigments. The reached color quality is determined by CIE L*a*b* indices. Dry and wet rubbing fastness is measured. Finally, best results are gained by application of disperse dyes. The gained results could be used in future also to develop other functional treatments of Kynol fibers in different fields for, e.g., light protection, UV-stability, water repellency or antistatic properties.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"57 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-19","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115495752","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ewin Tanzli, Bennet Brockhagen, Inken Blanca Post, Thorsten Bache, Khorolsuren Tuvshinbayar, S. V. Homburg, A. Ehrmann
{"title":"Microalgae growth and oxygen production on different textile fabrics","authors":"Ewin Tanzli, Bennet Brockhagen, Inken Blanca Post, Thorsten Bache, Khorolsuren Tuvshinbayar, S. V. Homburg, A. Ehrmann","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p9-16","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2022.3.p9-16","url":null,"abstract":"Microalgae can be used for diverse applications in research and industry. Several microalgae grow adhering to surfaces that are usually two-dimensional. A third dimension could increase the amount of microalgae adhering to a given area and can be offered by textile fabrics. Here we report on the microalgae Chlorella vulgaris and Scenedesmus spec. growing on different knitted fabrics under defined light and under office light conditions. Our results show a significant influence of illumination on both algal species and a smaller impact of the chosen medium, while all knitted fabrics under examination were found well suited as substrates. The numbers of alga cells per petri dish were higher on textile fabrics than in pure water or medium by a factor of ~ 4–20, respectively.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"4 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122047560","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Evaluation of the surface quality of spun materials using topothesy","authors":"T. Błachowicz, Michał Koruszowic","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2021.2.p208-216","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2021.2.p208-216","url":null,"abstract":"Topothesy and fractal dimensions were calculated for poly(acrylonitrile) (PAN) nanofibers mats obtained by electrospinning. These methods enable quantitatively describing and thus comparing solid-state surfaces and detecting fabric errors. The obtained variety of structural properties results from different substrates and after-treatments, e.g. stabilization and carbonization. The change in spatial morphology was reported for different magnification of images obtained with the use of Helium Ion Microscopy (HIM).","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"37 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-12-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"120848463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}