Mohammad Toufiqul Hoque, Tian Benrui, T. Grethe, B. Mahltig
{"title":"Evaluation of chitosan based pretreatment for cotton and linen dyeing with direct dyes and reactive dyes","authors":"Mohammad Toufiqul Hoque, Tian Benrui, T. Grethe, B. Mahltig","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p187-200","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p187-200","url":null,"abstract":"Cellulosic materials like cotton and linen are excellent textile substrates for dyeing with reactive and direct dyes. Due to their cellulosic nature, cotton and linen exhibit good affinity towards direct and reactive dyes. This good affinity is the reason for good washing and rubbing fastness. Chitosan is a bio-based polymer gained by the deacetylation of chitin. In contrast to cellulose, chitosan exhibits also amino functional groups. The purpose of this paper is to evaluate if a chitosan based pretreatment of cotton and linen can lead to different dyeing properties. After different chitosan based pretreatments, the color properties are determined by CIEL*a*b* indices. The rubbing fastness in dry and wet conditions is measured. Even if in the actual study no positive effects were determined by pretreatment of chitosan, the determined results could be utilized in future research to develop other functional treatments of cotton and linen materials with implemented chitosan.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131882439","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Rahel Krause, Justin Kühn, Carsten Schiffer, T. Gries
{"title":"Girl on Fire – Links between sex, firefighters’ clothing, safety, confidence and wear and tear","authors":"Rahel Krause, Justin Kühn, Carsten Schiffer, T. Gries","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p171-186","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p171-186","url":null,"abstract":"Firefighters are exposed to high risks and hazards, such as flames and smoke, in their daily lives. To be protected against these risks, firefighters wear protective clothing. As an employer, it is the duty to provide firefighters with good protection according to DIN EN 469. To do so, it is necessary to select, procure and maintain suitable firefighters' protective clothing. In order to identify weaknesses in the above steps and to develop and present proposals for remedying the identified weak points, an empirical study was conducted. In preparation for this study, interviews were first conducted with members of fire brigades. Based on the interviews, the relevant standards and regulations for fire fighters´ clothing were classified and areas of tension between the standards and regulations as well as their design in everyday fire brigade life were identified. Based on this, a standardized quantitative survey was conducted and the answers of the respondents were empirically evaluated. The evaluation examined both the respondents' answering behavior and the dependency between the answering behavior for different questions due to demographic differences. A key finding is that women firefighters are less satisfied with their firefighting clothing compared to men firefighters. The firefighters' clothing fits them worse. They do not feel as safe and comfortable. Moreover, woman have less confidence in the protective clothing. There is a correlation between the fit of the clothing and the satisfaction, confidence and feeling of protection","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"96 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"114398089","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Carol McDonald, Randy K. Rannow, A. Ballester, Katy Schildmeyer, Emma Scott, S. Gill
{"title":"Skin and soft tissue modeling and its impact on apparel modeling","authors":"Carol McDonald, Randy K. Rannow, A. Ballester, Katy Schildmeyer, Emma Scott, S. Gill","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p151-163","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p151-163","url":null,"abstract":"Rigid body avatars do not fully define the complex interaction between human and body-worn product (humanoid-to-coveroid). Skin and soft tissue modeling to create more realistic 3D humanoid body models are needed. We considered if humanoid split lines relevant to pattern-engineering practice can be related to biodynamic and fold lines of the skin. Changes in skin and tissue are expected, depending on the dermis, the effects of movement, and the effects of coveroid pressure. The physiological functions of the skin may be assigned mechanical parameters for dynamic study utilizing biodynamic excisional skin tension (BEST) lines, main folding lines (MFL) with Langer’s lines. Critical to such study is the connecting of the skin to the rig (humanoid virtual skeleton). The use of stable (skeletal feature points related to both the virtual skeleton and apparel block patterns) and morphological (skin feature points identifying areas of morphological variation and dynamic study) landmarks for connecting the skin to rig was analyzed. We utilized these landmarks to drive lines as BEST, MFL and Langer’s lines for the mapping of skin deformations. Initial findings suggest the use of stable and morphological landmarks could have profoundly positive effects throughout the entire digital product creation (DPC) production pipeline and should be further explored & are important in developing standard topology practice.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"368 5","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134064224","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"New testing device for air permeability","authors":"Lilia Sabantina, A. Ehrmann","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p164-170","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p164-170","url":null,"abstract":"Air permeability is used to characterize textile fabrics with respect to their usability as a garment or filter, airbag or parachute. It depends on the fabric’s porosity, air voids in the fabric, yarn specifications, thickness and other parameters, making it hard to calculate it reliably from other parameters. At the same time, measuring air permeability requires relatively expensive and complex equipment that cannot simply be built by everybody. Here, we suggest a simple device, which can be built from inexpensive components and correlates air permeability to a time measurement. We show that these values are highly correlated with the results gained by the frequently used standard EN ISO 9237.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129505696","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
M. Boljen, Marcin Jenerowicz, S. Bauer, E. Strassburger
{"title":"Combining protective clothes with human body models for finite element ballistic impact simulations","authors":"M. Boljen, Marcin Jenerowicz, S. Bauer, E. Strassburger","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p141-150","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p141-150","url":null,"abstract":"The ballistic deformation of an ultra-high-molecular-weight (UHMW) polyethylene (PE) composite has been subjected numerically to a multi-layered soft ballistic fabric package modelled upon the body contours of the Global Human Body Models Consortium (GHBMC) human body models M50-P and F05-P. The results of the clothing-body-interaction have been investigated and compared to the behavior of anthropomorphic surrogate models made from ballistic clay. For building the fabric model in donned shape, a single ply of woven fabric material has been converted upon the anthropomorphic body contour by subjecting it to a quasi-deep drawing process. After the fabric deformation, the shaped layer was duplicated 20 times and shifted outwards to build the fabric model, representing a multi-layered soft ballistic fabric package. The results of the ballistic impact simulation show that the response of the human body models (HBMs) is much more compliant than the behavior of the surrogate models. The deformation of the female HBM in terms of penetration depth and diameter of the affected impact region is slightly more severe than the deformation of the male counterpart with respect to identical impact conditions.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131046700","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Curvature change of moving bodies and its application for development of protective elements for protective clothing","authors":"Dominik Muenks, Y. Kyosev, Shuang Xia","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p132-140","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p132-140","url":null,"abstract":"When the human body moves, the body curvatures always change on the corresponding parts of the body. For ideal protective clothing, body curvatures during different movements have to be taken into account, as they influence the protection and the wearing comfort. For this reason, this study will focus on demonstrating methods to visually display such curvature changes. The changes are visually shown in different poses. The aim is to use this method to optimize protective elements on body parts with increased curvature changes. This would make protective clothing safer and more comfortable to wear.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"24 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132806235","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Julia Wilfling, G. Havenith, Margherita Raccuglia, S. Hodder
{"title":"Perceptual responses of (sports-)clothing-body interaction simulating pre- and post-purchase experience","authors":"Julia Wilfling, G. Havenith, Margherita Raccuglia, S. Hodder","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p120-131","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p120-131","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000The appreciation of textile products highly depends on a satisfactory ‘feel’ in fabric-skin contact. The question arising is whether the haptic interpretation of a garment (by hand) is comparable to a feeling produced when it is donned or used in its intended application. Sports T-shirts made from three different fiber types (CO, PES I, PES II) were studied in a pre- and post-purchase scenario by exposing 20 female participants to a hand, a donning (pre-purchase) and running evaluation (post-purchase) in 22 °C and 50% relative humidity (RH). Objective measurements such as skin temperatures, heart rate, body sweat loss, and sweat absorption of the garments were recorded. Subjective data was collected during the fabric hand and the donning evaluation as well as within the running protocol after 5 min, 20 min, and 5 min of cool down. Perceptual responses to 12 hand-/skin-feel descriptors (e.g., rough, smooth) were rated on a scale from 0 (not at all) to 10 (completely) and a feeling of discomfort was given. No significant differences between a hand and a donning evaluation were found in the rating of the sensations. The hand evaluation provided sufficient information for a comfort response to garment wear. The pre- and post-purchase comparison found a significantly lower perception of the feeling of roughness whilst running with the CO shirt and smoothness during running in PES II. The stickiness and comfort perception increased significantly in the post-purchase wear trial. Hence, moisture on the skin provoked through running influences comfort characteristics as well as the perception on haptic cues in t-shirts. Especially surface related haptic characteristics e.g., roughness and smoothness, are reduced.\u0000 \u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"35 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116108637","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Emma Scott, Katy Schildmeyer, Gerald S Ruderman, S. Ashdown, Carolyn McDonald, S. Gill
{"title":"Landmarking for Improved Digital Product Creation","authors":"Emma Scott, Katy Schildmeyer, Gerald S Ruderman, S. Ashdown, Carolyn McDonald, S. Gill","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p70-87","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p70-87","url":null,"abstract":"Sampling is a critical step in the concept-to-style workflow for digitally created products. Virtual environments allow sampling without the costs associated with physical prototyping However, current practice often still requires physical prototyping. Here we consider how landmarking contributes to the need for iterative sampling, thereby inhibiting a fully digital product creation DPC process. In the process, the opportunity for error within traditional anthropometric study is highlighted and a path toward global standardized landmarking and measuring (L&M) is presented. Landmarks denote anatomical reference points common to all humans. They are critical to every stage of DPC: measuring, product development, virtual sampling, rigging, size selection, and try-on. Cross-platform use of humanoids (models of humans) and body-worn products will introduce errors if landmarking protocols do not align across three-dimensional body processing (3DBP) technologies. Here we discuss how to avoid these discrepancies by combining Clone Block™ theory with current ISO standards. Further study should validate the findings here for the implementation of global standardized L&M to facilitate 3D technology interoperability, fully DPC, and greater adoption of 3D technologies for improved fit of body-worn products.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"71 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128731990","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Lars Claussen, Kimberly Lim, Julia Wilfling, Alex B. Lloyd, Daniel Ruiz, G. Havenith
{"title":"Influence of environmental temperature on the hand-feel perception of textiles","authors":"Lars Claussen, Kimberly Lim, Julia Wilfling, Alex B. Lloyd, Daniel Ruiz, G. Havenith","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p95-109","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p95-109","url":null,"abstract":"\u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000The present study investigated the effect of environmental temperature on the hand-feel perception of textiles. Participants were exposed to three different climate conditions (10 °C/20 °C/30 °C, RH 65 %) to simulate cool, mild, and warm environments. Hand-feel attributes, comfort, and preferences of a wide range of textiles were rated by the participants. Participants’ body responses to the different temperatures were controlled by monitoring participants’ aural temperature, mean skin temperature, hand temperature, tactile sensitivity, and environmental perception. Fabric weight was measured to monitor changes in textile properties induced by the different environmental conditions. The outcomes of the study suggest that the environmental temperature led to significant changes in participants’ aural temperature, mean skin temperature, hand temperature, tactile sensitivity, and environmental perception, affecting the hand-feel perception of the different textiles. Thus, the present study provides insight for practitioners to develop more comfortable textiles for specific environmental temperatures by establishing a basis for understanding how environmental temperature, body responses, and hand feel perception interact.\u0000\u0000\u0000\u0000","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"54 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128002940","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Definition of a thermal comfort rating scale for mountaneering boots","authors":"Eleonora Bianca, F. Dotti, A. Ferri","doi":"10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p110-119","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2023.4.p110-119","url":null,"abstract":"This study investigates the thermal insulation and moisture management of three types of mountaneering boots and simulated hiking activities under controlled environmental conditions with two elite athletes. Temperature and humidity were determined with six wireless probes placed on the most exposed parts of the foot (hallux, middle toe, little toe, dorsum, ankle and sole). Thermal images were taken to record the thermal insulation of each sample. Methodologically, the study aims to simulate every movement and activity of alpinism in order to realistically evaluate the conditions of use of this kind of footwear (also taking into account the lacing pressure exerted on the foot). Based on the results obtained, in a further step it will be possible to define the best solution in terms of combination of materials by creating a comfort scale for hiking boots.","PeriodicalId":106695,"journal":{"name":"Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products","volume":"102 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116119308","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}