{"title":"QueerCrip fashion in the twenty-first century: Sky Cubacub and the QueerCrip Dress Reform Movement","authors":"Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Dana Goodin","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.3.333_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.3.333_1","url":null,"abstract":"Sky Cubacub, designer, artist and twenty-first century activist, based in Chicago, Illinois, creates garments and accessories for their fashion brand Rebirth Garments while critically considering gender, body size and ability, using the body and its expressions as a site of resistance and rebellion. This research is a case study of the life of Sky Cubacub and their work. We used the oral history method and triangulated information from the oral history with a material culture approach by analysing garments or apparel-related items produced by the designer; their self-produced zine/manifesto; and analysis of content on their social media accounts. Cubacub challenges ideas of visibility and ambivalence around the identities of queerness, fatness and disability. Through Cubacub’s life story, design philosophy and business practices, these shifting and, most importantly, stigmatized and invisible identities can be expressed on an individualized basis in a celebratory fashion, leading into the twenty-first century as a hyperaware designer who is arguably a model for others looking to do the same.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43386449","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Guide to Producing a Fashion Show, Judith C. Everett, Kristen K. Swanson and José Blanco F. (2019)","authors":"Catharine Weiss","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.3.394_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.3.394_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44125707","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-Century Women Designers, Nancy Deihl (ed.) (2018)","authors":"Joy Sperling","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.3.391_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.3.391_5","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/CC.5.3.391_5","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49116257","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Untitled: Women’s clothing and ageing femininity in the portraits of Chaim Soutine","authors":"Louise. Franklin","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.3.315_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.3.315_1","url":null,"abstract":"Chaim Soutine’s (1893–1943) representation of clothes in his portraits has attracted very little scholarly or curatorial attention to date. For the first time in the near century of literature that has accumulated about the artist, this article discusses the women in Soutine’s portraits, focussing on their clothing and age, and ageing femininity more generally as a subject within Soutine’s practice. The status and fashions of women in inter-war France provide a context to demonstrate that youth, newness and fashionableness were not subjects for the artist, who instead favoured white women of middle- to older-age wearing their ‘Sunday best’ as his models. His practice of framing, containing and presenting women for inspection is also demonstrated for the first time, as well as the nuanced balance he strikes between accurately representing the details of studied garments and intensely working wider areas of colour in the same painting. The article’s wider conclusion is that acknowledgement of the complexity and rigour of Soutine’s art – including his detailed depiction of his sitters’ clothing – has consistently been blocked by the image of Soutine as purely expressionistic, uncontrolled painter, an image that must be released if new analysis of his work, such as that undertaken in this article, is going to take place.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42566039","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The size of the problem with the problem of sizing: How clothing measurement systems have misrepresented women’s bodies, from the 1920s to today","authors":"L. Hackett, D. Rall","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.2.263_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.2.263_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/CC.5.2.263_1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45468100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Theda Bara and her style: The vamp’s influence on fashion (1915–25)","authors":"Randy Bryan Bigham, Leslie Midkiff DeBauche","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.2.285_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.2.285_1","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47336622","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Notes on wearer–worn attachments: Learning to wear","authors":"Julia Valle Noronha, K. Niinimäki, Sari Kujala","doi":"10.1386/cc.5.2.225_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.2.225_1","url":null,"abstract":"Previous literature in person–product attachment has identified factors in long-term relationships responsible for the strengthening of bonds between users and products, stimulating longevity in use. Interested in further understanding the matter in the realm of fashion, this study investigates how relationships between individuals and the clothes they wear evolve over time. It identifies motivators behind the increase and decrease in the overall quality of wearer–worn relationships in regard to four dimensions: comfort, frequency of use, visuality and versatility. In order to achieve this aim, an adaptation of the UX curve method is used. The method was employed with a group of ten participants, wearers of specific clothing production, namely experimental fashion, in contrast with commercial fashion pieces. The study findings contribute to the literature on person–product attachment and highlight ‘learning to wear’ as an engaging experience encourag-ing stronger relations with clothes. In the discussion, the article proposes future endeavours to understand wearing practices aiming at more engaging designs.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/cc.5.2.225_1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"44007529","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Motivations for and against second-hand clothing acquisition","authors":"K. Laitala, I. Klepp","doi":"10.1386/CC.5.2.247_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/CC.5.2.247_1","url":null,"abstract":"One of the possibilities consumers have for more sustainable clothing acquisition is to select pre-owned products. This article explores consumers’ motivations for clothing reuse: why they choose or do not choose to acquire second-hand clothing. First, a taxonomy of motivation categories based on previous studies is presented. This demonstrates that similar properties can be used as arguments both for and against acquisition of second-hand clothing. An analysis of a representative sample of Norwegian consumers shows that both environmental and economic reasons are important for those who take part in informal clothing circulation. Uniqueness and style are more important for those who buy second-hand clothing. Those who do not take part in any of the forms of acquisition of used clothing, use vague and open justifications, as well as contextual aspects; hygiene, health and intimacy. Previous studies have mostly been based on how clothing is reused as part of a market exchange, and therefore the motives have been embedded with a rational choice understanding of consumption. Studies of the private exchange of clothing should also address additional reasons such as routinized practices and established rituals, family ties, feelings, friendship and love. The article concludes with an invitation for further research to explore several possible motivations that are more relevant for private circulation of clothes.","PeriodicalId":53824,"journal":{"name":"Clothing Cultures","volume":" ","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.1,"publicationDate":"2018-06-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1386/CC.5.2.247_1","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45616098","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}