Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology最新文献

{"title":"Skin-whitening effect of Haematococcus pluvialis extract and its synergy with niacinamide","authors":"WU Yanhong, Yinli Wang, Hongbin Huang, Fan Wu, Jian Zhao, Yuanyuan Zhu, Wanting Lai, Qianqi Yu","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2026.100169","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2026.100169","url":null,"abstract":"Dysregulation of melanin metabolism is a primary cause of skin hyperpigmentation, making the regulation of melanin synthesis and transfer a key focus in skin-whitening research. Haematococcus pluvialis extract (HPE), a potent natural antioxidant, is widely used in cosmetics. Thus, HPE is a potential candidate for the development of skin-whitening agents. This study aims to investigate the effects of HPE on melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer, and the synergistic interactions with niacinamide (NAM). α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced mouse melanoma cells (B16F10) were used to evaluate the effects of HPE and NAM on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. A transwell coculture system of human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (MNT-1) was established to further investigate the impact of HPE, NAM, and their combination on melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer. The combination index (CI) was calculated using the Bliss Independence model. In B16F10 cells, HPE significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, with inhibition rates of 22% and 34%, respectively ( p < 0.05). The transwell coculture system further demonstrated that HPE markedly reduced both melanin content and the number of melanosomes in HaCaT cells ( p < 0.05). Additionally, the combination of HPE and NAM demonstrated the synergistic effect on melanin transfer ( CI < 1). This study demonstrates that HPE’s skin-whitening effect is achieved by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanosome transfer, thereby reducing melanin production. These findings provide a more comprehensive understanding of HPE's mode of action. Furthermore, the synergistic enhancement between HPE and NAM paves the way for novel skin-whitening product formulations.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"1 1","pages":"100169-100169"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2026-04-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147878038","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Anti-photoaging effects of a topical lotion mediated by coordinated modulation of glutathione metabolism, TGF-β/Smad, and MAPK pathways for extracellular matrix homeostasis","authors":"Houcheng Cheng, Binjie Chen, Yongtao Yan, Tong-Laga Li, Jing Chen, Tuoyu Ju, Xiaomin Li, Yecheng Gao, Shiyun Feng","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100143","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100143","url":null,"abstract":"Skin aging results from intrinsic chronological factors and harmful environmental influences, notably photoaging characterized by UV-induced oxidative stress, which disrupts extracellular matrix (ECM) homeostasis and compromises antioxidant defenses. Although numerous anti-aging cosmetic products purport to address these processes, comprehensive evaluations that integrate transcriptomics with functional cellular validation remain scarce. The present study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of a skincare lotion (JDY) and to elucidate its molecular mechanisms of action through an integrative approach combining transcriptomic profiling, cellular assays, and preliminary clinical observations. Transcriptome sequencing of UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) coupled with KEGG analysis identified molecular targets. Functional validation included assessments of intracellular ROS, COL1, and ELN synthesis, MMP-1 activity, and Western blot analysis. A 56-day clinical observation employing 3D imaging techniques quantified changes in wrinkle morphology and skin firmness to provide phenotypic context. Transcriptomic analyses revealed three principal regulatory effects: (1) modulation of glutathione metabolism via upregulation of GSTA4 and GSTM2, conferring robust antioxidant protection; (2) activation of the TGF-β/Smad signaling pathway through increased expression of TGFBR1 and SMAD3, promoting extracellular matrix biosynthesis; (3) downregulation of MAPK/AP-1 pathway components, including FOSL1 and MMP1, thereby inhibiting collagen degradation. In vitro experiments demonstrated that JDY attenuated UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, enhanced ELN and COL1 synthesis by 13.0 % and 14.5 %, respectively, and suppressed MMP-1 release. Western blot analysis confirmed the upregulation of SMAD3 and COL1 protein expression. Consistent with these findings, clinical assessment showed JDY application improved skin elasticity parameters (R2, R5, Q1) and increased stratum corneum hydration by 31.7 %, and reduced transepidermal water loss by 29.7 %, with 3D skin imaging demonstrating pronounced wrinkle amelioration. JDY exhibits anti-photoaging properties by synergistically exerting antioxidant effects, stimulating extracellular matrix biosynthesis, and suppressing collagenolytic activity. This study defines a multifaceted molecular mechanism for JDY, with preliminary clinical observations providing supportive phenotypic context, thereby informing mechanism-driven development of anti-aging cosmetic formulations. • JDY targets photoaging by regulating glutathione metabolism, activating TGF-β/Smad, and inhibiting MAPK/AP-1 pathways. • JDY reduces UVA-induced oxidative stress, enhances elastin/collagen I synthesis, and suppresses MMP-1 release. • Integrated transcriptomic and cellular assays demonstrate JDY's mechanism, supported by preliminary clinical findings.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"3 1","pages":"100143-100143"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-12-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147888296","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"PUFECBENE®: A microencapsulated pterostilbene with enhanced bioavailability for skin depigmentation","authors":"Zongxiao Cen, Zhiyuan Chen, Ding Wang, Yuqin Zuo, Junyuan Chen, Xueping Chen","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100128","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100128","url":null,"abstract":"Pterostilbene, a bioactive compound with multifaceted therapeutic potential, has garnered significant interest in cosmetic applications for its depigmentation properties. However, its clinical utility is limited by poor aqueous solubility and bioavailability. To address this, we developed PUFECBENE®, a novel microencapsulated formulation containing 5 % pterostilbene (the rest are 30 % aqua, 48.5 % glycerin, 10 % caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 % hydrogenated lecithin, 2 % ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 1 % pentylene glycol, and 0.5 % 1,2-hexanediol), and measured its particle size and zeta potential using laser diffraction particle analyzer and evaluated its efficacy against pure pterostilbene using in vitro melanocyte and in vivo zebrafish embryo models. PUFECBENE® exhibited uniform aqueous dispersion with a hydrodynamic diameter of 121.72 ± 1.68 nm, a zeta potential of −65.1 ± 0.15 mV, and a transmittance of 80.64 ± 0.062 %. The cytotoxicity assay showed that PUFECBENE® exhibited no cytotoxicity in melanocytes at concentrations ≤ 1.25 µg/mL, while pure pterostilbene was non-toxic up to 3.13 µg/mL. Melanocyte assays demonstrated that 1.25 µg/mL PUFECBENE® reduced melanin synthesis by 57.05 ± 4.09 %, comparable to pure pterostilbene (57.58 ± 0.76 % at 3.13 µg/mL), and immunostaining revealed a 3.36-fold increase in LC3-II (autophagosome marker) and significant LC3-II/Pmel17 (Pmel17 is a melanosome-specific protein) co-localization, indicating autophagy-mediated melanosome degradation. Zebrafish embryos treated with PUFECBENE® (0.5 µg/mL) showed 99.30 ± 3.44 % melanogenesis inhibition, outperforming pure pterostilbene (8.95 ± 7.19 % at 0.5 µg/mL). PUFECBENE® exhibited a 50-fold enhanced in vivo potency relative to pure pterostilbene while retaining comparable in vitro efficacy, highlighting the critical role of bioavailability optimization and in vivo analysis in translating in vitro findings to formulation applications. This highlights the success of microencapsulation in enhancing bioavailability and depigmentation activity, positioning PUFECBENE® as a promising candidate for advanced cosmetic formulations targeting hyperpigmentation.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"3 1","pages":"100128-100128"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-12-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147879161","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The mechanism of black ginseng extract in alleviating inflammatory aging","authors":"Shaowei Yan, Chang Gao, Xinxu Rao, Lina Zuo, Qian Liu, Tingzhi Zhang","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100124","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100124","url":null,"abstract":"Black ginseng is a unique processed product of ginseng, a source of health food, medicine and modern cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to develop a new application for preventing inflammatory aging. To investigate the effects and mechanisms of action of black ginseng extract (BGE) on inflammatory aging, models of inflammatory aging were established in human foreskin fibroblasts cells and reconstructed 3D skin model. The results showed that MMP-1 expression in human foreskin fibroblasts was reduced at a concentration of 4 μg/mL BGE. At a concentration of 0.1%, BGE not only inhibited the secretion of PGE 2 in reconstructed 3D skin model damaged by SDS but also promoted the expression of TIMP-1. Furthermore, the composition of three rare ginsenosides in the BGE and their binding affinity to target proteins associated with inflammatory aging were analyzed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and molecular docking technique. In summary, BGE has potential application value in alleviating skin inflammatory aging.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"2 4","pages":"100124-100124"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-11-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147914157","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Development and clinical evaluation of a supramolecular acid-enzyme complex for skin exfoliation, sebum control, and pore refinement","authors":"Huwu Zhou, Lifeng Tang, Wenrong Zhang, Xinchi Li, Rongrong Li, Chang‐Zhi Dong","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100109","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100109","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"2 3","pages":"100109-100109"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147331117","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Dual-action fermented oats (Avena sativa L.): Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier restoration","authors":"Manman Liu, L. X. Wang, Ying Li, Ping Zhang, C. Wang, Yongan Wu, Yuyan Chen, H. Huang, Xiang Li","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100103","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100103","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"2 3","pages":"100103-100103"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-07-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147330798","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Red rice extract as a biological UV filter and its photoprotective enhancement effects","authors":"Tao Zhang, Shilong Ning, Yang-Chi-Dung Lin, Tianyang Li, Xueting Zhao, Hao Liu, Yue Liu, Qing Lv, Ye Gu, Zhihua Zhang, Linge Fan","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100102","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100102","url":null,"abstract":"Long-term exposure to sunlight can lead to inflammatory responses, skin photoaging and cancers. Plant extracts can serve as effective biological UV (ultraviolet) filters for their UV absorption capacity. Red rice extract is rich in phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins and procyanins has the potential as a biological UV filter. T Using UV absorption spectroscopy, the UV absorption performance of red rice extract was compared with that of three known UV filters. Additionally, the antioxidant capacity of red rice extract was verified through a 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical clearance assay, confirming its potential as a biological UV filter. Subsequently, the photoprotective enhancement effects of red rice extract in sunscreen formulations were explored. Experiments conducted by adding different concentrations of red rice extract to sunscreen formulations demonstrated that its photoprotective enhancement effects were positively correlated with its concentration. The addition of 1% red rice extract to both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) sunscreen formulations demonstrated good photoprotective enhancement effects, with SPF values increasing by over 10%. Further experiments showed that 1%, 3%, and 5% red rice extract could replace approximately 12.82%, 19.05%, and 26.09% of traditional UV filters in sunscreen formulations, achieving similar SPF values. These findings suggest that red rice extract is a promising biological UV filter, capable of enhancing SPF values and serving as a viable alternative for traditional UV filters. Red rice extract can be used in sunscreen products and provide photoprotection benefit.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"2 3","pages":"100102-100102"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2025-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147888027","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Stability and efficacy of pterostilbene nanoliposomes in cosmetic applications: A comprehensive study","authors":"Jianxin Li, H. T. Li, Pengfei Ye, Anlang Ou, Manrong Liu, Shiping Huang, Yaoliang Jin","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100056","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100056","url":null,"abstract":"Pterostilbene (PT), a lipid-soluble polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anticancer, and various other biological properties, holds potential as an active ingredient in cosmetics for its anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects. However, its application is limited by its low water solubility and poor penetration through the stratum corneum. To address these limitations, this study initially prepared Pterostilbene nanoliposomes (PT-NLPs) using a high shear-microjet homogenization treatment method, because of the distinctive hydrophilic and hydrophilic properties of the liposomes. The stability under different storage conditions of the PT-NLPs was evaluated by investigating the alterations of the particle size, PDI, Zeta potential and surface morphology, combined with the test results of Lumisizer stability analyzer. Finally, the comprehensive performance of PT-NLPs was evaluated through in vitro dermal and transdermal testing, human testing, and instrument testing. The results showed that the PT-NLPs treated by the high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper possessed a 1.7-fold increase in the retention performance compared with the free PT solution, and no penetration occurred on the blood-brain barrier, indicating that PT-NLPs would not cause toxicity to the organism. The human efficacy evaluation found that the PT-NLPs whitening serum could improve skin dullness, brighten skin tone, and improve skin sensitivity after 14 days of use. The high shear-microjet homogenisation method proposed in this paper for the treatment of PT-NLPs improved the transdermal delivery properties of PT. The process has a broad application prospect in the fields of medicine and cosmetics.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"1 4","pages":"100056-100056"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-10-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147879203","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A cutting-edge atomization-based methodology for enhancing formulation ability to resist photoaging","authors":"Juntong Li, Shuyu Wang, Ruifang Han, Meifang Wu, Jian Zhou, Peibiao Zhao, Bin Cui","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100045","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100045","url":null,"abstract":"Skin photoaging mainly occurs in exposed skin irradiated by ultraviolet rays from the sunlight. When exposed to ultraviolet rays, the skin will undergo certain changes to avoid damage. The inflammatory factors produced by light stimulation will induce melanocytes to produce more melanin, leading to the skin shows a rough, dark, dry, loose, and leathery appearance. In particular, when the skin is exposed to external damage and then received the damage of sunlight, such as after an aesthetic medicine treatment, it is more likely to produce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). However, there is a lack of a non-invasive and efficient solution. The purpose of this study is to verify a new skincare method to resist photoaging. The essence itself has a very good effect in resisting photodamage, when it through atomized to skin, it showcases a non-invasive but better-result approach to skin care. This study assessed anti-photoaging effects through in vitro (antioxidant, UVB protection, ROS tests) and human trials. In vitro results indicate the essence's efficacy. A randomized trial with 60 women (20–45 years, sensitive skin) compared atomized essence vs. smear control. After 28 days, atomized essence improved skin hydration, gloss, reduced redness, TiVi, TEWL, and UV protection. A 7-day test with Moyal Luminous Serum and Atomizer showed this skincare combo effectively prevents photodamage. Through in vitro and human experiments, we have verified that the self-developed essence itself has a very good effect of anti-photoaging. Through further comparison of human efficacy tests, we found that with the support of an atomizer, the anti-photoaging effect of the essence has been improved. Essence through atomization to resists photoaging, improves skin moisture, gloss, UV protection and reduces redness. Its non-invasive delivery ensures efficacy and user-friendliness.","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"1 4","pages":"100045-100045"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-09-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"147900001","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"OA","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Phyllanthuse emblica polyphenols: optimization of high-voltage pulsed electric field assisted extraction, an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro","authors":"Lin Ye, Wan Luo, Yanfeng Nie, Min Chen, Qiting Wu, Peng Yan, Huaiqing Sun, Yunlin Pei, Chaowan Guo, Ying Lin","doi":"10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100038","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100038","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":517804,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology","volume":"81 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2024-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"141691454","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}