Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering最新文献

{"title":"The role of teaching advanced technological knowledge to enhance experimental creativity in knit design.","authors":"M. Motta, D. Dumitrescu","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001531","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001531","url":null,"abstract":"Digitalization is one of the main grounds for discussion in the textile manufacturing industry. As in other creative fields, digitalization in textile design has brought craftsmanship together with work using digital tools and mechanical processes to creatively embed advanced knowledge in structural design and this dualism is even stronger in the field of knitwear design. For years, knitting technologies have been considered far from creativity and entirely delegated to the expertise of technicians, and design education has often focused on fostering artistic expression by teaching highly creative manual/mechanical processes. In the ongoing shift towards digitalization and the challenges of Industry 4.0, research and education in knitting design must redefine the programming of industrial machines as a tool for designers to push their experimental creativity together with their technical knowledge. This article reports an investigation made by the authors in the two different contexts of the School of Design of Politecnico di Milano and of the Swedish School of Textile in Borås. Using the method of constructive alignment (Biggs, J. B. & Tang, C. S., 2011), the investigation set up a comparison of two practice-based methods for training designers in programming industrial knitting machines. The authors mapped the teaching, learning activities and expected learning outcomes specific for each course and analysed quintessential aspects that occur in the learning process in the transition from manual to digital tools. The research had the aim of understanding what kind of knowledge should be transferred, in which way and with which purpose, to make programming an integral and effective part of the learning process for knit designers. The data collected have been used to highlight similarities and differences between the two programmes, identify impactful items and open future research that could foster improvements with shared solutions.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122552201","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Assistive relief tool for special psychological symptom groups during pandemic - pressure clothing design based on virtual contact principles","authors":"Yunjuan Liu","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001559","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001559","url":null,"abstract":"During the COV-19 pandemic, some special populations - groups of early childhood and people with autism, among others - faced more profound challenges than the common people. The lack of real physical contact such as embracing greatly affected the effectiveness of development, psychiatric treatment and other processes for these populations. This study aims to develop clothing with appropriate contact pressure based on the contact comfort principle of psychology, provide a type of pressure clothing that can relieve the wearer’s tension by simulating hugging, alleviating the lack of physical contact for early childhood education and special education groups during the pandemic. First, the elementary requirements of clothing design are attained using a questionnaire survey and test method. The analysis revealed that clothing should fulfil the four requirements of pressure comfort, fabric softness, wearing and taking off comfort, and visual beauty. Second, we realized the performance requirements in the fabric and accessories, style design, structure design, and functional design. Finally, the product experience is proposed through a fitting, and the reasonable opinions were fed back to the product design to enhance the functionality of clothing. The research shows that clothing can simulate hugging and can ease the loneliness of the wearer. This study can be used as a good tool to assist during the pandemic for early childhood education and special psychological symptom groups, as well as a broader group of people living alone at home, to play an adjunctive treatment and loneliness relief functions.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"49 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"121573721","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Clothing and housing: Using materials with adaptable features can improve comfort and safety in emergency situations.","authors":"Marlene Couceiro, C. Carvalho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003644","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003644","url":null,"abstract":"In this paper, we intend to present adaptable solutions to improve the safety and comfort of users during or after natural catastrophes (earthquakes, eruptions, floods, hurricanes, droughts) or man-made disasters (conflicts and war). We will explore several suggestions, which I will list below: new applications of signage and innovative materials, which allow a more efficient communication in an emergency situation; garments that become shelters, to minimize the negative impact caused by the destruction and loss of the victims' houses; thermochromic materials, reflectors and color used as warning signs, model partitions, lightweight structures, etc. Those are some examples of the features that enable temporary installations to be created in order to relieve human suffering. Conclusions: In this study, we present some versatile, adaptable, and ecological structures, which reflect the environmental and social changes in our western society. We have put together a series of solutions to create temporary shelter. Projects which are a response to the needs of today's world: contemporary nomadism and struggles in renting or buying a house, due to the rising cost of essential goods and the cost of living. The recent past has been marked by a series of unpredictable events: a pandemic, man-made disasters (Russian-Ukrainian War) and natural catastrophes (a heat wave that hit Europe and increased the risk of fire, heavy and persistent rain that caused floods, falling trees and the recent earthquake in Turkey and Syria). Different occurrences that have left several people homeless. When working in extreme conditions and with limited resources, the provision of a shelter can reduce vulnerability in social and economic terms, physical integrity and well-being. It has been found that the development of this type of product has advantages in terms of comfort, mobility, and safety, as it allows for a rapid adaptation and recovery.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"229 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131420777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Adapting Jane Austen to the screen: fashion and costume in Autumn de Wilde’s movie \"Emma\"","authors":"Carlos Manuel Figueiredo, Ana Rafaela Diogo, Joana André Leite","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001538","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001538","url":null,"abstract":"The visual and behavioral codes prevalent in society at any given moment are part of its social conventions and constitute a framework that rules everyone´s image, dress and the attitudes that society not only tolerates but expects from them. However, it is unquestionable that despite the rigidity and formality imposed on personal appearance and manners, it is still possible to find some room to play with the possibilities afforded to people, albeit conditioned by their social status, so as to manage to express their inner self, mood, and even outlook on life, at any point in time. What is more, it is possible for an individual inserted in such a society to become the center around which everything revolves and trace a path to success, without necessarily trespassing any of the red lines drawn by society's norms. In her novels, Jane Austen chose as protagonists middle to upper class young women that stand out by managing to, in the limited scope of action afforded to them, work society in their favour so as to achieve their perceived notions of fulfillment and personal happiness. Based on one of Austen's novels Emma, and its 2020 movie adaptation directed by Autumn de Wilde, we will assess how Alexandra Byrne’s costumes work in relation to the aesthetics of Emma’s world and surroundings. As well as investigate how they showcase, are impacted and can even be read as symbolic representations of the course of her life, evolution and relationships in this movie, which is considered to be particularly faithful to the novel.Keeping this in mind, we will analyse several scenes that are key both in terms of the plot and the costumes of the main character—Emma. This analysis will consider filmic and design notions of characters, narrative and space, as well as their construction and representation. It will focus on questions of storytelling regarding how the viewer is informed about Emma’s personality and mood, as well as capable of feeling her emotions, in the key events of the plot. As well as try to answer why and how Emma and her costumes remain the main focus in almost every shot of the movie, and how components such as the fictional space, its framing and composition are always in relation and dependent on her and her portrayal.Despite this movie being Autumn de Wilde’s debut, her mastery of notions of visual hierarchies, aesthetics and cinematic techniques that keep Emma highlighted and the focus of the action at all times, in the foreground of the shot, is undeniable. This translates to impeccably shot spaces that are completely in tune with the costumes, providing a sense of ease or contrast to the characters' relation to the space, further highlighting the subjects in the main action.In such an aesthetically developed piece, it is then also unavoidable that Emma’s every interaction and the development of her relationships will have a direct impact on her inner image, and therefore her outer image, affecting her relation and attachments to her co","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"6 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"134176141","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thermal comfort of buildings and their occupants - Dialogue between Nature, Textiles and Architecture","authors":"Marlene Couceiro, C. Carvalho","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001556","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001556","url":null,"abstract":"Our research has the general objective of combating thermal discomfort and improving the interaction between the user and the space, through the application of new materials. Textiles have been used in architecture since mankind began to build. One of the advantages of their use is that they improve thermal comfort without increasing energy consumption. Our daily life imposes on us a fast pace, and textiles try to keep up with this movement. However, the floors and coverings of the spaces do not reflect this speed. We estimate a benefit referring to an improvement in terms of user's comfort, if our building could adapt to the situations to which it is subjected, reversibly changing according to the circumstances to which it is exposed. We intend to observe Nature, with the aim of presenting strategies, which can contribute to finding alternative solutions, which accompany these changes, especially meteorological ones.The fur, feathers and scales, the body wrapping of animals, function similarly to the skin of humans, and have different functions (protection, communication, sensation, thermoregulation). Analysis of their protective and regulatory functions provide a starting point, for experiments in textiles and buildings. In this research we will focus on animal cooling and heating techniques, to try to find solutions, based on fauna and flora observation, to formulate possible textile and architectural applications. We will also observe some climatic zones with exaggerated characteristics, to understand how the human being has adapted to these places.It is by no means intended to exhaust the subject, however we will indicate some behavioral strategies and anatomical features that help animals regulate their body temperature. Whenever possible trying to correlate with already existing examples in textiles and Architecture. This article analyzes the possibilities of integrating some animal characteristics, in textiles and coatings with the objective of improving its thermal performance. We believe that by changing the color or applying new materials incorporated into the structures of our clothing or the coatings of our buildings, we can achieve our purpose: to improve thermal comfort. The use of darker shades, allow to absorb more solar radiation and heat the human body or the walls of houses. While the use of lighter shades, contribute to a greater reflection of sunlight, which allows to avoid the heating of the surfaces, favoring the reduction of temperature. We intend with this study to understand the dynamics of Nature, to understand how it solves its problems, to understand its general process of efficiency, to observe its diversity and complexity, with the objective of taking advantage of this inexhaustible source of inspiration for Design, for Textiles, for Architecture. It seems possible to improve the thermal comfort of buildings and their occupants through the production and application of responsive materials.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"14 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133645852","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"A comprehensive body sizing system for international fashion consumers and apparel manufacturing","authors":"Xin Zhang, Ningrong Xie, Jin Fan, Tracy Mok","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001533","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001533","url":null,"abstract":"Human body sizing standards are the foundation for apparel mass production. An effective sizing system is vital because it provides a consistent and accurate sizing reference for both manufacturers and consumers. This study aims to develop a comprehensive sizing system in a 3-step process by taking reference to all major national body sizing standards. Firstly, the primary and secondary dimensions are determined. Secondly, coverage of the body shapes, represented by drop vales for upper body (differences of bust and waist) and lower body (differences of waist and hip), are calculated. Thirdly, the size ranges, namely, the upper and lower limits of primary and secondary dimensions, are obtained from each size standard. In this paper, the sizing standards of US, Europe, China, Japan and some other countries were investigated. Based on the analysis results, we consolidated all sizing information into five size charts, from which a comprehensive sizing system covering two size charts for upper body and lower body were lastly constructed. The proposed sizing system covers very board body size ranges as well as a large variety of body shapes, which provide a basis for garment production and body shape classification.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123160587","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"There is no Planet T in Portugal - Designing a bachelor’s degree in Textile Design for Portugal","authors":"S. Seixas, G. Montagna, Maria João Felix","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1003634","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1003634","url":null,"abstract":"This exploratory study is part of design research and aims to understand and reflect on Portuguese higher education in textile design and to make recommendations for the different actors involved – academia, industry, and designers. The textile industry is undergoing a process of change in its production processes and business models to minimize the environmental impact caused. New forms of teaching are needed that go beyond the traditional approach and train the ability to apply theoretical knowledge to real-world problems. A non-interventional study was conducted, based on reviewing the literature and focus group, to stimulate reflection and bring new perspectives on the object of study. The study concludes that Portuguese higher education in textile design is limited and should be complemented with a specialized offer in this field in a close relationship between academia and industry to allow shared education, thus contributing to weave a textile economy of the future.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"19 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116982660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Design of tread patterns for use with novel composite outsole materials for slip-resistant footwear","authors":"Shaghayegh Bagheri, K. Gide, T. Dutta","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001542","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001542","url":null,"abstract":"The ultimate goal of this research is to prevent fall-related injuries for workers exposed to outdoor winter conditions through the development of slip-resistant footwear based on novel composite materials and optimization of tread pattern design to retain its properties over extended use. This research will answer the following research question: how do tread pattern design features (tread depth, shape, orientation, and surface area) effect the slip-resistance of footwear with outsoles made up of a combination of novel composite and conventional materials? The objective of this project is to identify the relationship between tread pattern and slip-resistance on icy surfaces for footwear based on novel composite materials.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129977214","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Making Art Through Textile","authors":"I. Bieger","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001555","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001555","url":null,"abstract":"Art is an important point in our life. Show our culture, our ideas, our knowledge, our creativity and our sensibility. Through art we can Know what the people think in the time of history. Art is the manifestation of beliefs, showing what people demonstrating critical capacity of the history that we are living or lived in some time. For doing art artists using different kind of material. Someone paints, others do sculptures, or even many materials are possible to use together for manifestation art and opinions. Here we will talk about textile material. The many facets of the fabric, how it can be transformed in art with creativity.We choose to talk about the work that Daisy May Collingridge do to transform simple textile in real work of art. How she manifests her opinion through art using textile like a base for after, transform into squishier. Sometimes criticized about the impact caused in the public, her brilliant idea of transforming fabric in sculpture show us her personality.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"38 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132413378","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The effect of anti-itch fiber on the quality of sleeping","authors":"Chiyomi Mizutani, R. Hirota, Kanji Kajiwara","doi":"10.54941/ahfe1001554","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001554","url":null,"abstract":"For humans, sleeping has a role of restoring mind and body, and is an important function for recovery from fatigue. In recent years, more focus has been put on the quality of sleep rather than the quantity of sleep, and it has been found that the bedding and sleeping garments could disturb the quality of sleep.　There are many factors disturbing sleep, and itching during sleep deteriorates the quality of sleeping. Patients with atopic dermatitis are particularly suffering from poor sleep due to itching. Based on the results of our research so far, we have found that weak-acidic polyester, which possesses weak-acidic groups, suppresses itching due to atopic dermatitis. In this study, we adapt weak-acidic polyester to sleeping garments which contact directly with skin and aim to investigate whether the quality of sleeping is improved by suppressing itchiness during sleep. The sleeping garments were prepared with the weak-acidic polyester and untreated polyester fabrics. We asked 7 females with atopic dermatitis in their twenties and 7 healthy females in their twenties as subjects to wear the prepared sleeping garments at home. The quality of sleep was assessed by an electroencephalograph and the Athens insomnia scale, and the degree of itching was scored on a scale of 100 according to the visual analog scale (VAS). Sleep is specified by REM sleep and non-REM sleep according to brain activity at sleep. In REM sleep, the brain is still actively working and memory is organized and established. In non-REM sleep, the cerebrum is considered to be resting and is important for recovery from fatigue of the brain and body. Good sleep is determined by the amount of non-rem sleep. The wear tests confirmed that the weak-acidic polyester scored a higher rate of non-REM sleep than that of the untreated polyester in summer season. All the subjects wearing the weak-acidic polyester had a lower degree of itchiness and a higher proportion of non-REM sleep, confirming the effect of weak-acidic polyester.","PeriodicalId":448346,"journal":{"name":"Human Factors for Apparel and Textile Engineering","volume":"60 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116058305","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}