{"title":":<i>Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment</i>","authors":"Sara Idacavage","doi":"10.1086/725546","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725546","url":null,"abstract":"Previous article No AccessBook ReviewsMaxine Bédat. Unraveled: The Life and Death of a Garment. New York: Penguin Random House, 2021. 336 pp.; 35 black-and-white illustrations, notes, index. $27.00.Sara IdacavageSara IdacavageUniversity of Georgia Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Winterthur Portfolio Volume 57, Number 1Spring 2023 Published for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/725546 For permission to reuse, please contact [email protected].PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"4 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533099","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":<i>Sex Dolls at Sea: Imagined Histories of Sexual Technologies</i>","authors":"Emma Yann Zhang","doi":"10.1086/725548","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725548","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article No AccessBook ReviewsBo Ruberg. Sex Dolls at Sea: Imagined Histories of Sexual Technologies. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 2022. 304 pp.; 40 black-and-white illustrations, notes, index. $35.00 (paper).Emma Yann ZhangEmma Yann ZhangTokyo, Japan Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Winterthur Portfolio Volume 57, Number 1Spring 2023 Published for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/725548 For permission to reuse, please contact [email protected].PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"474 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533097","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":<i>Citizens and Rulers of the World: The American Child and the Cartographic Pedagogies of Empire</i>","authors":"Camille S. Owens","doi":"10.1086/725547","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725547","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article No AccessBook ReviewsMahshid Mayar. Citizens and Rulers of the World: The American Child and the Cartographic Pedagogies of Empire. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2022. 256 pp.; 38 halftones, notes, bibliography, index. $32.95.Camille S. OwensCamille S. OwensHarvard University Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Winterthur Portfolio Volume 57, Number 1Spring 2023 Published for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/725547 For permission to reuse, please contact [email protected].PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"54 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533096","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":<i>Properties of Plastics: A Guide for Conservators</i>","authors":"Mary Coughlin","doi":"10.1086/725544","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725544","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article No AccessBook ReviewsThea van Oosten, Lydia Beerkens, Ana Cudell, Anna Laganà, and Rita Veiga. Properties of Plastics: A Guide for Conservators. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute, 2022. 320 pp.; 251 color and 161 black-and-white illustrations, 15 tables, notes, appendixes, glossary, references, index. $70.00 (paper).Mary CoughlinMary CoughlinMuseum Studies Program, Corcoran School of the Arts & Design, The George Washington University Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Winterthur Portfolio Volume 57, Number 1Spring 2023 Published for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/725544 For permission to reuse, please contact [email protected].PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533042","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Essence of Stillness","authors":"Nicholas T Rinehart","doi":"10.1086/726289","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/726289","url":null,"abstract":"By reassessing Gerrit Schouten’s papier-mâché dioramas depicting the lives of enslaved and free Africans in early nineteenth-century Suriname, this article aims to complicate and challenge current and past reception of the artist’s life and work. A free person of color who has been dubbed “the most important artist in Suriname in the nineteenth century” as well as the first professional artist to emerge from the Caribbean, Gerrit Schouten’s manipulation of material form, perspective, and visual effect renders the multiple conflicting and overlapping temporalities inherent to slavery and Dutch Colonial society.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533063","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Brett & Toby","authors":"Jaipreet Virdi","doi":"10.1086/725583","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725583","url":null,"abstract":"For nearly sixty years, painter Dorothy Eugénie Brett (1883–1977) made use of multiple hearing prostheses she collectively referred to as her “ear machines”: trumpets, auricles, carbon acoustic devices, and electric hearing aids. She relied on these machines both as technologies of assimilation and as objects of power to negotiate the often-contested boundaries between hearing and deafness. The ear machines—especially a large ear trumpet named Toby—serve as a prosthetic configuration of the “disabled gaze”: an autonomous claiming of identity that required, if not depended on, the revelation of disability experience as a guard against ableism. In letters, photographs, and paintings, Brett positioned her machines to foster positive connotations of deafness to both normalize their use and to dominate social spaces to ensure that the otherwise invisibility of her disability was not ignored. Through the disabled gaze, the ear machines bring to fore the deepest convictions between Brett’s private and public selves to enable her to live an autonomous life as a deaf woman and artist.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"69 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533064","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Editor’s Introduction","authors":"Catharine Dann Roeber","doi":"10.1086/727480","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/727480","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article FreeEditor’s IntroductionCatharine Dann RoeberCatharine Dann Roeber Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreCrafting an independent identity requires many types of tools. This issue of Winterthur Portfolio examines how two artists harnessed papier-mâché, paint, and other materials in service of creating and representing individual and communal freedoms. Nicholas Rinehart’s article “Essence of Stillness: Temporality and Materiality in the Dioramas of Gerrit Schouten” examines Schouten’s works as complex reflections on the life and circumstances of free and enslaved Black residents of nineteenth-century Surinam as they navigated moments of joy and respite in the face of enslavement. In “Brett & Toby: Asserting the Disabled Gaze,” Jai Virdi examines the long-standing relationship between artist Dorothy Brett and her hearing trumpet, Toby, as she forged her identity as a deaf woman and artist.Previous scholars of the Schouten dioramas have often used them as direct documents of life in Surinam or have pointed to the artist’s use of stereotype in the papier-mâché figures and backgrounds. Rinehart admits that these complex objects reflect hierarchies within the communities of free and enslaved people of African birth or descent depicted and acknowledges the evidence of the brutality of the international slave economy. But, by reexamining carefully the clues of the dioramas, along with comparative research on paintings and documents, Rinehart picks up on subtle details, precisely rendered by Schouten, to make an argument for a new and more complex reading of the figures and scenes. Rinehart’s location of Black communities and Black joy among the evidence of trauma has implications far beyond specific geography and circumstances in Surinam and encourages readers and scholars to reexamine historical representations of enslaved dance and life created throughout the African diaspora.Virdi’s work explores how one individual carved out a space for herself with an object of tin and solder. Virdi unpacks the relationship between Dorothy Eugenie Brett and Toby and other assistive devices she used to navigate and frame her position as a woman experiencing increasing deafness in the early twentieth century. Brett’s choice to include Toby and later assistive devices in her portraits and self-portraits reinforces that these were not mere “tools” but extensions of self. Through detailed analysis of devices, Brett’s words, and images of Brett from her youth as a socialite in England to her more independent adulthood in New Mexico, Virdi presents an intimate and nuanced reading of Brett and of assistive technologies. The argument presented by Virdi encourages new readings and directions in disability scholarship informed by her framing of the “disabled gaze.”Both articles skillfully blend readi","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"119 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533086","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":":<i>Seduced by Radium: How Industry Transformed Science in the American Marketplace</i>","authors":"Samira Daneshvar","doi":"10.1086/725545","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1086/725545","url":null,"abstract":"Previous articleNext article No AccessBook ReviewsMaria Rentetzi. Seduced by Radium: How Industry Transformed Science in the American Marketplace. Pittsburgh: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2022. 292 pp.; 32 black-and-white illustrations, notes, bibliography, index. $35.00.Samira DaneshvarSamira DaneshvarHarvard University Search for more articles by this author PDFPDF PLUSFull Text Add to favoritesDownload CitationTrack CitationsPermissionsReprints Share onFacebookTwitterLinkedInRedditEmailPrint SectionsMoreDetailsFiguresReferencesCited by Winterthur Portfolio Volume 57, Number 1Spring 2023 Published for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Article DOIhttps://doi.org/10.1086/725545 For permission to reuse, please contact [email protected].PDF download Crossref reports no articles citing this article.","PeriodicalId":43437,"journal":{"name":"WINTERTHUR PORTFOLIO-A JOURNAL OF AMERICAN MATERIAL CULTURE","volume":"15 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135533043","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}