History of Retailing and Consumption最新文献

{"title":"Advertising and the character of English provincial department stores, c.1880–1914","authors":"J. Stobart","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1970942","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1970942","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Provincial department stores are slowly coming out of the shadow of their metropolitan counterparts, increasingly being recognised as innovative and dynamic in their approach to retailing. In a British context, they are generally seen as falling into one of two categories, targeting upper and middle-class customers or those from the working classes. However, there has been little attempt to consider how this differentiation was reflected in or created by their marketing activities: how they promoted themselves to these very different customer bases. This short paper examines the advertisements placed in provincial newspapers by two Manchester department stores during what is often seen as their heyday. It addresses three related questions: how did their advertising campaigns develop over time, to what extent were they differentiated by the ‘type’ of store, and how did this relate to the broader image of the store?","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"7 1","pages":"98 - 114"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42354421","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"From communism to capitalism: Tallinna Kaubamaja – Estonia's department store","authors":"B. McKenzie","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1937783","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1937783","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Tallinna Kaubamaja opened its door in July 1960, and is the oldest and largest (in terms of sales) department store in Estonia. Tallinna Kaubamaja (Estonian for ‘Tallinn Trading House’, but known in English as Tallinn's Department Store), has gone through a number of changes over the past sixty years, both in terms of physical renovations, but also in terms of management and retail practices. Tallinna Kaubamaja is an exemplar of one of the few traditional department stores that had opened during the Soviet period, continued to exist during the re-independence period in the early 1990′s, the privatization period in the mid 1990s, and a period of expansion and greater competition through the first two decades of the twenty-first century. The focus of this historical review is to address the following questions; how did this traditional department store manage to succeed for six plus decades through such change, and what is the legacy of being a Soviet era store located in country that was vehemently opposed to being a Republic in the USSR?","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"7 1","pages":"57 - 78"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1937783","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"45126817","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"‘History of department stores: introduction’","authors":"Vicki Howard","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1980285","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1980285","url":null,"abstract":"When I was working on my history of the American department store industry, I wished for a book-length global study of department stores that united all the stories of retail development and their diverse historical contexts around the world. I am still waiting. Most historical research and analysis of the subject takes place within a single national framework. Given the intricacies of law and policy that shape the direction of retail development in different countries, as well as the important role of culture in all things commercial, national studies make sense. The practicalities of research also favour national studies. Transnational projects require broader training and sometimes additional language skills, as well as international access to archives. While we are still waiting, this special issue of History of Retailing and Consumption takes us closer. As I hope readers will agree, it demonstrates the rich and diverse path of mass retailing around the globe, covering Eastern Europe, the Americas, New Zealand, and the United Kingdom. Each article focuses on a single country, but together they contribute to our understanding of the international history of this important social institution. The special issue documents cross-cultural influences in retailing, highlighting the influence of the United States across the world, but moving beyond the more wellknown Anglo-American networks. Many similarities are evident across national borders, but vastly different political and economic contexts resulted in unique retail environments, shaping labour and consumption in divergent ways. In the Western context, department stores originated in the nineteenth century. The term ‘department store’ became current in the 1890s in both Britain and the United States, though it was more narrowly applied in Victorian Britain than it was across the Atlantic. One provincial English department store, Browns of Chester, even objected to the term. While historians have documented early opposition to the new retail mode on both sides of the Atlantic, customers embraced it. Perhaps sooner and to a greater extent in the United States than in Britain, department stores expanded the contours of consumer culture. As has been well documented in North America, in the last quarter of the nineteenth century these department stores made mass consumption possible through their low prices and wide variety of goods under one roof. They also spread a consumer ethos through mass advertising and branding, new merchandising and sales methods, lavish interiors and attractive amenities. Nineteenth-century American department stores were harbingers of the rise of a national commercial society and","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"7 1","pages":"1 - 8"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49047060","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Empire by emulation: Brazilian business elites encounter the U.S. department store","authors":"James P. Woodard","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1935112","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1935112","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This paper examines the role of Brazilian businessmen in recreating aspects of the culture of U.S.-style consumer capitalism in their own country, especially through their emulation of the North American department store. Rather than an imposition from without, the reshaping of Brazilian retailing practice and culture in the middle decades of the twentieth century was largely the work of native-born Brazilian elites, some of whom were hugely successful, and whose success was part of a larger remaking of modern Brazil.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"7 1","pages":"9 - 34"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1935112","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"42607147","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Too anxious to please: moralising gender in fashion magazines in the early nineteenth century","authors":"G. Andersson","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1915593","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1915593","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT The turn of the nineteenth century witnessed a rise in fashion and ladies’ magazines across Europe. With an emerging consumer culture and the rise of the middle class, these magazines offer glimpses into important societal changes. A new gender order was being established, and magazines were one area where developing gender values were articulated. Setting out from the Swedish magazine Magasin för konst, nyheter och moder, this article analyses gender-related values, focusing on the importance of being fashionable and on amorous liaisons and marriages. The results show a distinct ambiguity in values, with contradictory images of women’s ideal behaviour, and the international influence on the making of a Swedish middle class.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"216 - 244"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1915593","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"49393619","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Thought piece – a window on advertising archives","authors":"J. Strickland","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1918931","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1918931","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT Compared with America, there is a relative paucity of written archival sources for some aspects of the history of retailing and consumption in Britain during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, such as records of advertising policy and strategy, whereas millions of advertisements and other examples of advertising ephemera have survived. This short article uses window dressing as an example of the necessity to look beyond traditional written archives to a rich array of sources that can help to widen the scope of research, thus contributing to the historiography of advertising and retail history in general.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"153 - 161"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1918931","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"43661139","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"The introduction of self-service and the supermarket in Belgium (1945–1975): The soft underbelly of Europe?","authors":"Peter Heyrman","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2021.1893054","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1893054","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article evaluates how self-service shopping and the supermarket format were introduced in post-war Belgium. Compared to other European countries, this happened quite late. The main locomotives were the country’s four major distribution chains. Their leading role can be connected to the involvement of their managers in transfer of retail expertise from the US to Western Europe, clearly preceding governmental efforts to increase retail productivity by promoting the American model. Family-based shopkeeping was deeply rooted in Belgium's predominantly Catholic societal culture. Forging a compromise policy on the modernisation of retail proved to be quite a challenge. In the 1960s government enabled the further expansion of big distribution but also tried to mitigate the transition by stimulating the modernisation of independent retail through consultancy and professional training. It also fostered the growth of a so-called ‘independent associated retail sector’ through franchising and other cooperative networks. At first, this policy seemed to offer viable perspectives. In the early 1970s, however, Belgium witnessed a remarkable upsurge of shopkeeper protest, in part triggered by the concentration of big distribution and the growing impact of its hypermarkets. To guarantee a durable balance between big and small a legal framework on retail establishment was introduced.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"197 - 215"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2021.1893054","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47716061","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Marketing justice: the Christmas Boycott","authors":"Katherine Parkin","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2020.1778377","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2020.1778377","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article explores the tension over whether to boycott Christmas in 1963 to protest the murder of six children in Birmingham, Alabama. The Association of Artists for Freedom, formed in the aftermath of the murders, was led by John O. Killens, James Baldwin, Odetta, Louis Lomax, Ruby Dee, and Ossie Davis. They took a leadership role in condemning the murders and demanding a national response; they called for the first national no-spending Christmas Boycott. Instead of a more traditional quid-pro-quo boycott that sought to exact demands of a company or a community, this boycott sought to use financial angst to compel a reckoning with racial justice. The broad appeal of the Christmas boycott emerged out of a growing recognition of the economic power Blacks had acquired. The boycott was intended to force a larger conversation and shift in behavior. Beyond shining the light on discrimination and violence in the South, the creative leaders imagined those in the West, the Midwest, and the North also being forced to confront their own racism and the institutionalized ways that racism pervaded the nation.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"162 - 196"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-07-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2020.1778377","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"46998988","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Gendered encounters in mobile trade: human hair as a commodity in the Nordics, 1870–1914","authors":"Johanna Wassholm, A. Sundelin","doi":"10.1080/2373518x.2020.1859927","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518x.2020.1859927","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT From 1870, Nordic newspapers observed an increasing trade in human hair across the region. This article examines the reasons behind the sudden boom, the mobile groups engaged in the trade, the gendered encounters involved in it and the destinations of the procured hair. We contribute new knowledge on a mobile livelihood about which little is known and exemplify how digitalised and searchable newspaper databases enable researchers to illuminate forms of livelihoods, trade and consumption that have left few traces in historical sources.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"118 - 136"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518x.2020.1859927","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"48244388","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Transformational retailing and the emergence of a modern brand: Liberty of London, 1875–1900","authors":"N. Alexander, A. Doherty, J. Cronin","doi":"10.1080/2373518X.2020.1859926","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/2373518X.2020.1859926","url":null,"abstract":"ABSTRACT This article considers the role of a transformational retail setting in the development of an iconic brand identity in the last quarter of the nineteenth century. The focus of this research is Liberty of London. Through experiential engagement and augmented admission, Liberty created a retail environment that challenged existing practices. Coupled with the development of a brand identity enhanced through authoritative advocacy and consumers’ allegorical encounters with the firm’s core brand message, Liberty achieved the symbolic substantiation of a distinct taste regime through the market-mediation of authenticity. We discuss how brand representation in a transformational retail setting in the metropolitan market of the late nineteenth century legitimised and structured consumer expectations in a context of growing middle class demand for merchandise with enhanced aesthetic qualities and associated lifestyle values.","PeriodicalId":36537,"journal":{"name":"History of Retailing and Consumption","volume":"6 1","pages":"78 - 96"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-05-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://sci-hub-pdf.com/10.1080/2373518X.2020.1859926","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"47327008","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}