{"title":"This Long Thread: Women of Color on Craft, Community, and Connection,","authors":"Dana Williams-Johnson","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2209770","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2209770","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"29 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84256020","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Adsorption, Kinetics and Thermodynamics of Reactive Dyes on Chitosan Treated Cotton Fabric","authors":"Manindra Nath Roy, Md. Tofazzal Hossain, Md. Zahid Hasan, Khairul Islam, Md. Rokonuzzaman, Md. Azharul Islam, Shahjalal Khandaker, M Mahbubul Bashar","doi":"10.31881/tlr.2023.030","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31881/tlr.2023.030","url":null,"abstract":"The adsorption performance, kinetics, and thermodynamic parameters of reactive dyes on chitosan-treated cotton fabric are described in this research. The batch experiment was carried out to investigate the influence of pH, time, temperature, dye concentration, and material to liquid ratio of Remazol Red RR and Remazol Yellow RR, two widely used reactive dyes. The adsorption of red and yellow dyes was observed at λmax 517 and 419 nm respectively. For both Remazol Red RR and Remazol Yellow RR reactive dyes with starting dye concentrations of 0.0667 and 40 mg/L, the greatest dye adsorption was reported at pH 11 (0.0009 and 0.1284 mg/g) and pH 4 (0.0004 and 0.1038 mg/g). The adsorption performance was investigated using the Langmuir and Freundlich isotherms. The adsorption behaviours of the two reactive dyes closely matched to the Langmuir adsorption isotherm (R2>0.98) than Freundlich isotherm (R2>0.92). The pseudo-second-order kinetic model (R2>0.99) was followed by the dyeing kinetics of modified cotton sample. Thermodynamic investigation was covered with enthalpy change (ΔH⁰), Gibbs free energy (ΔG⁰) and entropy change (ΔS⁰) where all the values were reported positive confirming that the adsorption process was non-spontaneous, endothermic and the higher affinity of reactive dye on chitosan treated cotton.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"216 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-15","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136215924","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Aditya Wahyu Nugraha, Ono Suparno, Nastiti Siswi Indrasti, Hoerudin Hoerudin
{"title":"Chrome-Free Tanning: Effect of a Combination Tannage Based on Mimosa and Biogenic Silica from Rice Husk","authors":"Aditya Wahyu Nugraha, Ono Suparno, Nastiti Siswi Indrasti, Hoerudin Hoerudin","doi":"10.31881/tlr.2023.031","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31881/tlr.2023.031","url":null,"abstract":"Chromium (III) sulfate is a popular tanning agent for producing leather. However, chrome tanning wastewater is one of the problems in the leather tanning industry. To prevent this, tanning using vegetable materials can be used in the leather tanning process. One of the natural ingredients that can be used is mimosa. However, mimosa is relatively expensive, so a substitute/combination tanning agent is needed to make tanning costs cheaper. This research aims to determine the effect of using a combination of mimosa and silicic acid from rice husk (RHSA) tanners on the quality of the tanned leather produced. This research uses a completely randomized factorial design with mimosa and RHSA as factors. The analysis shows that the best treatments were 20% mimosa and 20% RHSA. In addition, the analysis shows that the treatment met the standard. The resulting shrinkage temperature was 84 °C, tear strength was 39.98 N mm-1, tensile strength was 26.42 N mm-2 and elongation at break was 41%. Combination tanning also shows no significant difference from conventional tanning and reduces mimosa without decreasing leather quality.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"34 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135389194","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A Review of Bacterial Pigments: Harnessing Nature's Colors for Functional Materials and Dyeing Processes","authors":"Micaela Gomes, Graca Soares","doi":"10.31881/tlr.2023.016","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.31881/tlr.2023.016","url":null,"abstract":"The use of synthetic dyes has been found to have negative environmental impacts, leading to a growing demand for natural alternatives. This study explores the potential of bacterial pigments, derived from microorganisms, as a sustainable alternative for textile dyeing. The first chapter examines the ecological impact of synthetic dyes and the potential of natural dyes, including bacterial pigments, as a sustainable alternative. Biodegradability and life-cycle-assessment are discussed in this chapter since they are important factors to evaluate the environmental impact of any substance. The second chapter discusses the potential for bacterial pigments to functionalize textile materials with new therapeutic properties, including antifungal and anti-inflammatory effects. Additionally, some bacterial pigments can be used as semiconductors for electronics. The third chapter outlines the challenges of using natural pigments in textile production and suggests techniques to improve colourfastness. The chapter also highlights the successful uses of pigments such as anthraquinone, carotenoid, violacein, melanin, and prodiginine in textile colouring. Finally, the future perspectives section identifies potential areas for further research and development in the field of bacterial pigments, which could revolutionize the textile industry towards a more eco-friendly and innovative approach to textile production.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-05-11","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135526903","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Stranded Iconographies: The Journeys of Tapestries from Rorke’s Drift, 1965","authors":"Philippa Hobbs","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2182049","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2182049","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"1 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-26","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"84353447","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Magdalena Abakanowicz: Every Tangle of Thread and Rope, London, UK: Tate Modern, 17 November 2022 to 21 May 2023","authors":"Janis Jefferies","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2191385","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2191385","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"10 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"75938542","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"A Designer’s Perspective on a Creative Era in Knitwear Design: British Fashion Knitwear 1970–1990","authors":"S. Black","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2193523","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2193523","url":null,"abstract":"Abstract The image of knitting has waxed and waned throughout its history across the UK, being historically associated with women’s domestic work. Nevertheless, hand knitting has demonstrated periods of great creativity and fashionability since the mid-nineteenth century. The twentieth century saw knitting move from the utility of wartime comforts for the troops, to high fashion in the 1920s and 1930s and again in the 1950s, but by the late 1960s hand-knitted clothes were seen as utilitarian and staid. However, from the early 1970s, a new wave of British designer/makers rediscovered the creative potential of knitting; traditional techniques were reinterpreted with color and pattern in a true renaissance of the art. This significant craft-led British design movement repositioned knitwear as fashion, and a new genre “designer knitwear” was born, named a “Knitwear Revolution” by fashion writer Suzy Menkes. This hand-made, textural, colorful, fun knitwear became highly popular “statement” fashion. This article makes an original contribution to fashion and knitwear history by examining this under-researched period, including through personal testimony of the author. It provides new insights into creative approaches to knitwear design and business practices exemplified by British designer fashion knitwear of the 1970s and 1980s and identifies the lasting influence of these small design-led businesses.","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"57 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-04-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"90988777","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Ten Perspectives of the Gáppte: Materializing Different Ways of Being Sámi","authors":"Anna Gustafsson","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2185740","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2185740","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":32765,"journal":{"name":"Textile Leather Review","volume":"16 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-03-28","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"76195080","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}