{"title":"4.1 The Body as the Matter of Costume: A Phenomenological Practice","authors":"Donatella Barbieri","doi":"10.5040/9781350098831.ch-017","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350098831.ch-017","url":null,"abstract":"Proposing the notion of the designer’s own ‘mind-full’ body as critical to a costume-practice-led methodology of performance-making, this chapter draws on movement and materials workshops that I have adopted and devised to expand costume practice, research and pedagogy since 2004. Such practices are considered via perception and the Merleau-Pontian philosophy of the body, thus framing costume here as phenomenological. While I have deployed parts of this research into the founding of the MA Costume Design for Performance at London College of Fashion (LCF) in 2006, other workshops scrutinised here were devised for invited participants who were practitioners, researchers and educators. They form part of a long-term research aim to re-define costume as agent and instigator in making performance. Curriculum development and the research into the agency of costume in performance are intertwined, and are both initially informed by three research projects. Firstly, the AHRB funded Designs for the Performer exhibition (2002 -2005) questioned the established exclusion zones and hierarchies of traditional design practice. Secondly, the cross-institutional, international and devised production of LES/Forest (2005) proposed alternative processes to those of mainstream practice. Thirdly, my participation in the Ecole internationale de theâtre Jacques Lecoq’s Laboratoire d'Etude du Mouvement (L.E.M.) in 2005 saw a new emphasis upon the engagement of participants’ bodily movement through material interaction. More crucially, these initiated an on-going practice of devising material-movement workshops as a radical departure from traditional designing that is the subject of this chapter.","PeriodicalId":323587,"journal":{"name":"Performance Costume: New Perspectives and Methods","volume":"3 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2020-12-10","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127955372","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"6.1 Exploring Rossini’s Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume","authors":"Sofia Pantouvaki","doi":"10.5040/9781350098831.ch-026","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350098831.ch-026","url":null,"abstract":"Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org) This material is protected by copyright and other intellectual property rights, and duplication or sale of all or part of any of the repository collections is not permitted, except that material may be duplicated by you for your research use or educational purposes in electronic or print form. You must obtain permission for any other use. Electronic or print copies may not be offered, whether for sale or otherwise to anyone who is not an authorised user. Pantouvaki, Sofia","PeriodicalId":323587,"journal":{"name":"Performance Costume: New Perspectives and Methods","volume":"58 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126255572","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}