Journal of cosmetic science最新文献

{"title":"Bias in Sunscreen SPF Testing: A Review of Published Data.","authors":"Trina Ricci,&nbsp;Andrew Marra,&nbsp;Karen Rauen,&nbsp;Michael Caswell","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Subversion bias, a type of selection bias, through manipulation of subject recruitment compromises data validity. This study explores the possibility of subversion bias in sunscreen sun protection factor (SPF) testing. It has been established that subjects with lower minimal erythemal dose (MED) values exhibit higher sunscreen SPF values. Consistency of this response is determined in subjects who participated in multiple sunscreen efficacy clinical trials. All trials determined the SPF of the sunscreen standard P2. Of the 652 subjects with greater than three observations (<i>n</i> = 286), 35 subjects consistently had values either well above (<i>n</i> = 29) or below (<i>n</i> = 6) the average SPF value of the dataset (15.6 ± 1.2). The difference between the average SPF by the subject exhibiting the highest average SPF for P2, 19.8 ± 0.9, and the subject exhibiting the lowest average SPF for P2, 12.3 ± 2.6, is 7.5 SPF units, or 61%. Recruitment strategies based on historical SPF values for an individual would be considered subversion bias. Foreknowledge of those subjects with consistent results either in favor or not in favor of SPF testing outcomes could be exploited and would provide a reason for variation in results among testing facilities.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"351-360"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458793","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Current Topical Strategies for Skin-Aging and Inflammaging Treatment: Science versus Fiction.","authors":"Heba A Eassa,&nbsp;Mohamed A Eltokhy,&nbsp;Heba A Fayyaz,&nbsp;Maha K A Khalifa,&nbsp;Seham Shawky,&nbsp;Nada A Helal,&nbsp;Hadeer A Eassa,&nbsp;Shams F Youssef,&nbsp;Isabel K Latz,&nbsp;Mohamed Ismail Nounou","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Aging is a natural phenomenon that affects the whole body, including the skin. As we age, endogenous and exogenous factors cause our skin to become thinner, paler, and wrinkled. Although the underlying mechanisms of the pathogenesis of skin aging are not entirely known, multiple pathways have been proposed. Inflammaging has recently emerged as a pathway that correlates aging and age-related diseases with inflammation. This review discusses the role and pathways of inflammaging that lead to skin aging. Moreover, strategies and current topical approaches for skin-aging treatment are discussed. Studies over the past 10 years suggested that DNA damage and oxidative stress are the most critical mechanisms in skin aging, and both are interlinked with inflammaging. Several treatments for skin aging have been considered such as antioxidants, hormone replacement therapy, and vitamins. To deliver anti-aging agents topically, researchers adopted numerous approaches to enhance skin penetration including physical, chemical, or biomaterial enhancers and carrier-based formulations. In recent years, consumers' demands for anti-aging products have considerably risen, leading to robust growth in the anti-aging market. Therefore, further in-depth studies are necessary to understand skin-aging mechanisms and evaluate the efficacy of anti-aging products to protect consumers worldwide by providing them safe and effective over-the-counter skin-aging formulations.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"321-350"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458792","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"RiceSorb^® as Talcum Substitute for Loose Face Powders: Formulation and Characterization.","authors":"Arpapat Siriwarin,&nbsp;Peerapat Chidchai,&nbsp;Duangkhae Maneenuan,&nbsp;Nattha Kaewnopparat,&nbsp;Sarunyoo Songkro","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Excessive and daily inhalation of talcum, a main ingredient of face powders, causes pulmonary talcosis, which has led to the replacement of talcum with safer natural ingredients. RiceSorb^®, or <i>Oryza sativa</i> starch from Japanese rice, was used as an alternative owing to its nontoxic and excellent oil absorption capacity. The objectives of the present work were to formulate loose face powders from RiceSorb^® and to investigate the physicochemical properties of the prepared formulations. Five formulations of loose face powders were prepared by varying the ratios between talcum and RiceSorb^®: 4:0 (FT0), 3:1 (FT1), 1:1 (FT2), 1:3 (FT3), and 0:4 (FT4). The physicochemical properties were evaluated mainly based on USP 41 and NF 36 such as morphology by using a scanning electron microscope, bulk density, flow property (angle of repose), moisture content (MC), and pH. The stability of the formulations were also performed at ambient temperature and 45°C for 2 months. The formulations had pH 6.90-8.62, bulk density 0.33-0.49 g/ml, and an angle of repose 30°-41°. Overall, the formulations which contained only RiceSorb^® (FT4) or higher proportion of RiceSorb^® (FT3) had finer particles, lower bulk density, pH, and angle of repose than those of the formulations containing high proportion of talcum: FT0 and FT1. Under storage conditions for 2 months, the formulations containing high proportion of RiceSorb^® exhibited noticeably increased MC and angle of repose. However, the other physicochemical properties were somewhat the same. The present results suggest the applicability of RiceSorb^® for loose face powders.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"291-302"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38555648","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Stability and Cytotoxicity of a Cosmetic Cream Containing Oil from <i>Lecythis pisonis</i> Cambess (Sapucaia) Nuts.","authors":"Anna Paula DE Souza Rampazzo,&nbsp;ElisÂngela FlÁvia Pimentel,&nbsp;Ana Claudia Hertel Pereira,&nbsp;Pamela Aparecida Grizotto,&nbsp;Stanislau Bogusz Junior,&nbsp;Fabiana G Ruas,&nbsp;JosÉ Aires Ventura,&nbsp;Denise Coutinho Endringer","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p><i>Lecythis pisonis</i> nuts are rich in tocopherols, polyphenols, and fatty acids, and hence, the quality of oil was analyzed for use in the elaboration of skin cream. Nut oil was extracted with hexane in a Soxhlet apparatus. The quality and safety of the oil were tested by using established protocols from Adolf Lutz Institute. Three concentrations, 1%, 5%, and 10%, of oil were incorporated into a formulated cream. The oil formulations were evaluated for their stability, organoleptic characteristics, pH, viscosity, spreadability, challenge test, cellular viability, and their response to microbial contamination, as recommended by the National Health Surveillance Agency (ANVISA). Quality analysis demonstrated the high quality of the obtained oil, with no traces of heavy metals and no toxic effects on ingestion. The cream containing <i>L. pisonis</i> nut oil is stable, has an effective preservative system, and is considered safe for use because it presented no toxicity in human cells. A stabilizer is required to maintain the pH in the range suitable for a body cream. Of the formulations tested, the cream containing 5% nut oil was the most stable and had presented the best organoleptic characteristics.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"239-250"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38555647","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Quantification of Human Hair Moisturization with Cosmetic Products by Dynamic Vapor Sorption.","authors":"Y K Kamath","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>An attempt has been made to evaluate and quantify the moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic products by dynamic vapor sorption method. The possibility of quantifying this effect by the application of the second law of thermodynamics to sorption hysteresis has been demonstrated. The results show that the ordinary conditioner actives in rinse-off formulations show limited moisturizing capabilities. However, specially formulated products can show, quantifiably, both moisturizing and desiccating effects. From the Brunauer, Emmett and Teller (BET) theory, total pore volume obtained from the literature by nitrogen adsorption, and the sorption data from this work, it has been possible to show that the sorbed water in hair does not distribute uniformly in the hair. This is in agreement with the X-ray diffraction measurements and the more recent work on small angle neutron scattering on D₂O-saturated hair.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"303-320"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458791","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Caffeine in Hair Care and Anticellulite Cosmetics: Sample Preparation, Solid-Phase Extraction, and HPLC Determination.","authors":"Kristina Mladenov,&nbsp;Slavica SunariĆ","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Caffeine is extensively used in cellulite and hair growth cosmetic products. Regulations in the field of cosmetics require manufacturers to list caffeine in the ingredient list on product labels, but its exact content in these products is not declared. On the other hand, daily exposure to caffeine from all sources may approach health reference values. For that reason, it is important to know the exact caffeine content in products for skin and hair care. Cosmetics are often viscous or semisolid products of very complex chemical composition. To analyze caffeine in these complex sample matrices by liquid chromatographic methods, an extraction step is often necessary. This article presents the applicability of the solid-phase extraction (SPE) procedure for the caffeine extraction and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) determination in anticellulite gels, shampoos, and hair balsam. The samples of gels were centrifuged after ammonia addition to precipitate carbomer. In cellulite reduction, gel caffeine content was found to be in the range of 0.7-1.7%, whereas in the hair-care products, it was about 1.0%.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"251-262"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38555645","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Evaluating the Safety and Efficacy of a Topical Formulation Containing Epidermal Growth Factor, Tranexamic Acid, Vitamin C, Arbutin, Niacinamide and Other Ingredients as Hydroquinone 4% Alternatives to Improve Hyperpigmentation: A Prospective, Randomized, Controlled Split Face Study.","authors":"Brandon D Kalasho,&nbsp;Ardalan Minokadeh,&nbsp;Sandy Zhang-Nunes,&nbsp;Richard A Zoumalan,&nbsp;Nima L Shemirani,&nbsp;Andrea R Waldman,&nbsp;Vadim Pletzer,&nbsp;Christopher I Zoumalan","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hyperpigmentation is a common concern of patients in aesthetic practice. There are various treatment options, but topical depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone (HQ) are usually a first-line option. Given HQ's side effects and potential controversy over its long-term use from prior animal studies, there is a consumer demand for non-HQ topical formulations that provide similar efficacy, but with a reduced adverse reaction profile to HQ. There is increasing evidence to support the use of selective growth factors, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, and Vitamin C in improving hyperpigmentation. This study sought to determine whether a non-HQ topical formulation, composed of the aforementioned ingredients, could provide similar or improved efficacy to topical HQ, but with a reduced adverse reaction profile. This single-center, prospective, randomized, controlled split face study investigated the safety and efficacy of a proprietary product SKNB19 compared with hydroquinone 4% (HQ4%) in treating hyperpigmentation. Eighteen adult subjects with facial pigmentation were randomly assigned to have one side of their face treated with SKNB19 twice a day (morning and night application) and the other treated with HQ4% applied nightly. Patients used a 5-point scale to self-assess their overall appearance, and a 4-point scale to assess redness, irritation, and tolerability to the skin-brightening creams. A Wilcoxon signed-rank test was used to test whether there was a statistical difference between the two treatments. Three-dimensional imaging was performed before treatment was administered and again 1 month following treatment initiation using a Canfield Vectra 3D imaging system. Five independent reviewers comprising two dermatologists, two facial plastic surgeons, and one oculoplastic surgeon graded and performed a qualitative comparative assessment of each side of the face using the before and after images. A Wilcoxon signed-rank test was used to test whether there was a statistical difference in overall appearance between SKNB19- and HQ4%-treated sides. SKNB19-treated hyperpigmentation had a statistically significant improvement in the overall appearance of hyperpigmentation and was shown to be 28.5% better than HQ4%-treated skin in the patient self-assessment and 27% better than HQ4%-treated skin in the independent reviewer assessment. On pair-wise comparison, the independent reviewer assessment also showed that 88.2% of the SKNB19-treated sides appeared equal or better than the HQ4%-treated sides. One patient dropped out of the study because of severe intolerance to HQ4%. No patients experienced intolerance to SKNB19, and all were able to continue its use without adverse effects. SKNB19-treated hyperpigmentation also had a statistically significant reduction in irritation when compared with HQ4%-treated hyperpigmentation. Patients reported a reduction in redness when using SKNB19 as opposed to HQ4%, but these figures did not reach statistical si","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 5","pages":"263-290"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38555646","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Regular Application of Sunscreen Can Prevent Skin Cancer.","authors":"Green AdÈle C","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>This review summarizes the evidence on the protection against skin cancer afforded by sunscreen. Solid evidence can come only from randomized controlled trials, despite a multitude of case-control and cohort studies that have addressed the issue, because observational evidence is intractably confounded since those at highest risk of skin cancer are naturally the highest users of sunscreen. Findings of the single human trial conducted in subtropical Australia during 1992-1996 with follow-up to 2014 showed that the application of a broad-spectrum, sun protection factor 16 sunscreen to exposed skin of the head and neck and upper limbs at least 3-4 days per week in adulthood can reduce the risk of developing cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma but does not appear to reduce the risk of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) overall, although it may reduce the occurrence of multiple BCCs over time.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 4","pages":"191-198"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458795","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Introductory Remarks.","authors":"Giacomoni Paolo U","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 4","pages":"187-190"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458794","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Formulation of Sunscreens for Optimal Efficacy.","authors":"Moyal Dominique,&nbsp;Passeron Thierry,&nbsp;Josso Martin,&nbsp;Douezan StÉphane,&nbsp;Delvigne VÉronique,&nbsp;SeitÉ Sophie","doi":"","DOIUrl":"","url":null,"abstract":"<p><p>Skin exposure to solar radiation can cause many adverse effects. In addition to the sun protection factor (SPF), a parameter associated with Ultraviolet B (UVB) protection, significant evidence emphasized the crucial importance of a well-balanced protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and for some indications, against high-energy visible light. Synergy between UV filters and filter photostability together with film-forming ingredients such as polymers that ensure the homogeneous distribution of UV filters on the skin are key factors to avoid UVA- and UVB-provoked detrimental effects of solar radiation. Clinical studies mimicking real conditions of use have been performed. The results show that a well-balanced sunscreen with at least an SPF-to-UVA protection factor ratio < 3 provides the most effective protection against DNA damage, skin photoimmunosuppression, photodermatoses, and pigmentation disorders. In addition, cosmetically pleasant sunscreens allow a sufficient amount to be applied and re-applied by consumers, ensuring continuous and even coverage of the exposed skin.</p>","PeriodicalId":15523,"journal":{"name":"Journal of cosmetic science","volume":"71 4","pages":"199-208"},"PeriodicalIF":0.4,"publicationDate":"2020-07-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"38458796","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"医学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}