Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe最新文献

{"title":"STUDY OF RIB KNITS COURSEWISE TENSILE PROCESS","authors":"Tetiana Yelina, L. Halavska, S. Bobrova, N. Lytvynenko, Tetiana Dzykovych","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-002","url":null,"abstract":"Stretchability of knitwear is one of the most important factors of wearing comfort. Elasticity of knitted structures in course wise direction is usually higher than along wales and often characterized by crosswise shrinkage. Existing methods of knitting program development do not consider the real rate of wale wise shrinkage of rib knitted structure under the course wise extension. During the study experimental research has been carried out to fulfill empirical data on the relationship between samples’ length and width under uniaxial course wise elongation. A range of samples of rib 1×1, 2×2, 3×3, 4×4 and 5×5 knits, made of cotton, bamboo, polyacrylonitrile (PAN), wool/acrylic blend and wool yarn, were stretched with a tensile machine WDW-05M. In the process of stretching the width of each specimen was defined in the moments of extension by 50, 100, 150, 200, 250 and 300 per cent. It has been found that linear approximation can be applied to describe the dependence of specimen’s width on its relative course wise elongation. It was found that the stitch height/width ratio changes unevenly. In the beginning of the process of course wise stretching of a rib knitted structure, it does exist, such an interval, where an increase of the knit’s linear size along the courses occurs without a significant shrinkage in the wale wise direction. It is suggested to name the upper limit of this interval as “unidimensional extension limit” and define it as an extension of a standard (100×50mm) specimen, at which its width decreases by 10%. It was found as well that the value of this index significantly depends on the ribbing variation and much less on the type of raw materials","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"4 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91381615","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"APPLICATION OF JBATIK TECHNOLOGY IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF MOTIF DESIGN FOR TRADITIONAL BATIK CRAFTSMEN","authors":"F. Ciptandi, M. Rosandini, Muhamad Lukman","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-2-004","url":null,"abstract":"This participatory action study is aimed at identifying the adaptation level of traditional batik craftsmen in developing batik motif designs using jBatik software technology. The research participants consist of 10 traditional batik craftsmen, three from the innovators group and seven from the adopters group located in Kerek District, Tuban Regency, East Java Province, Indonesia. The application of jBatik technology will be carried out using the Diffusion of Innovation theory which divides the process stages into 5, namely the knowledge stage, persuasion stage, decision stage, implementation stage, and confirmation stage. The results of the theory application resulted in 4 things. First the knowledge about various social system variables and the characteristics of the innovation recipients. Second, the design of the communication model to include knowledge about the innovation of batik motif design as a result of the JBatik software. Third, the results of the simulation of the application of batik motif designs produced by the jBatik software with craftsmen. Fourth, validation of the simulation results of the application of batik motif design innovations by craftsmen by people who had the ability to measure the level of absorption of innovation, so that the level of adaptation of traditional craftsmen to the technological challenges of the jbatik device could be identified. This study contributes to determining the level of knowledge and basic skills possessed by traditional batik craftsmen to serve as a starting point in deciding innovation strategies to be solutions that can be implemented by them.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"22 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-08-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"85015105","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"DETERMINATION OF TENSION FOR ARAMID AND CARBON YARNS WHILE WEAVING INDUSTRIAL FABRICS","authors":"V. Shcherban’, Oksana Kolysko, G. Melnyk, Marijna Kolysko, Y. Shcherban, Ganna Shchutska","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-007","url":null,"abstract":"Resulting from researches conducted to determine tension for para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns during their contact with the operative parts of the weaving looms as part of the industrial fabrics formation process, we have found out that in threading areas the tension is increasing driven by variation of values of the friction forces in the contact area. It has been proven that tension degree of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns before industrial fabric formation area is influenced by (1) tension before cylindrical guide surface of an operative part, (2) radius of the cylindrical guide surface curve of the operative part, (3) contact angle between yarns and cylindrical guide surface of an operative part, (4) mechanical, physical and structural properties of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns. It allowed (yet at the initial stage of design of technological process of industrial fabric formation) to determine para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before formation area depending on (1) form of threading line for yarns at the weaving loom, (2) mechanical, physical and structural properties of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns and industrial fabrics. The paper contains experimental research of interaction of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns and cylindrical guide surfaces of the operative parts of automatic weaving looms. Based on experimental researches regression dependencies have been obtained between para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension value after cylindrical guide surfaces of the operative part and (1) tension before cylindrical guide surface of the operative part, (2) radius of the cylindrical guide surface curve of the operative part, (3) contact angle between yarns and cylindrical guide surface of the operative part. Consecutive application of these regression dependencies allows to determine para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before industrial fabrics formation area. Analysis of regression dependencies allowed to find out values of technological parameters when para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension before industrial fabrics formation area will be of minimum value. It will allow to minimize tension of para-aramid, metaaramid, and carbon multifilament yarns while manufacturing resulting in (1) yarn breakages reduction, (2) better productivity of weaving looms due to reduced stoppage time, (3) improved quality of manufactured industrial fabrics. Therefore, we can argue that suggested technological solutions are practically attractive. In view of this, it is reasonable to say that it is possible to directionally regulate the process of para-aramid, meta-aramid, and carbon multifilament yarns tension change while manufacturing industrial fabrics on the weaving looms through selection of values of guides’ geometrical parameters","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"15 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"86876632","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"INFLUENCE OF ANTISTATIC POLYESTER FIBERS ON THE PROPERTIES OF COTTON AND POLYESTER SINGLE JERSEY KNITTED FABRICS","authors":"Norina Asfand, S. A. Basra, V. Daukantienė, H. Jamshaid, Zulfiqar Ali","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-002","url":null,"abstract":"In this research, the influence of the antistatic polyester fibers containing carbon black on the comfort properties of 100% and blended cotton as well as on 100% and blended polyester single jersey knitted fabrics was evaluated. The research results revealed that the behavior of the investigated knitted fabrics was dependent on their structure and mechanical characteristics. The electrical resistance of knitted fabrics decreased significantly due to the use of 4% antistatic polyester fibers. The electrical resistance of the pure and blended cotton knitted fabric was lower than that of the pure and blended polyester knitted fabrics. Antistatic polyester fibers positively influenced the air permeability of the polyester knitted fabric. The air permeability of 100% and blended cotton fabrics was approximately 3.5 times compared to both 100% and blended polyester fabrics, respectively. The carbon black polyester fibers influenced the decrease in thermal resistance, the increase in vapor permeability, and the minor increase in vapor resistance of both cotton and polyester knitted fabrics. Thermal resistance was lower, water vapor resistance was significantly higher, and relative water vapor permeability was slightly lower for the cotton and cotton/antistatic polyester knitted fabrics than for the polyester and polyester / antistatic polyester knitted fabrics, respectively. Therefore, the research results revealed that the presence of 4% antistatic polyester fibers in cotton and polyester knitted fabrics positively influenced their antistatic behavior and improved or almost did not alter their comfort properties.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"54 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87238358","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"FEATURES OF THE PRIMARY PREPARATION OF HEMP STRAW STALKS SUITABLE FOR OBTAINING CELLULOSECONTAINING MATERIALS AND PAPER","authors":"S. Putintseva, Anastasiia Tikhosova, Vira Krahlyk, Artem Kapitonov","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-006","url":null,"abstract":"The features of the primary preparation of hemp straw stalks suitable for obtaining cellulosecontaining materials and paper are considered in the article. The primary processes of the preparation of hemp raw materials for pulp production, which include harvesting, storage of straw stalks, transportation, and primary processing of raw materials suitable for obtaining cellulose-containing materials, are described. Methods of shortening stems and fibers applied in the pulping process are studied in detail. Technological methods of shortening straw stalks of technical hemp and cleaning raw materials from grains and garbage impurities are mentioned. The necessity of applying the processes of stalks crushing and wet purification of chopped straw stalks of technical hemp is proved.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"5 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"91271724","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"COLOR PERCEPTION ESTIMATIONS OF METAMERIC PAIRS UNDER DIFFERENT ILLUMINANCE LEVELS","authors":"A. Mukthy, Michal Vik, M. Viková","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-005","url":null,"abstract":"LEDs or light emitting diodes of the lighting class dominate both the indoor and outdoor lighting industries today due to their accuracy and consumer-friendly color temperature. In the context of color science, it is necessary to analyze both the spectral power distribution of lighting and the human characteristics of color perception under these lights. In this article, we provide estimates of the appearance of eleven metameric pairs under LEDs with four correlated color temperatures and six illuminance levels, using color difference formulas based on the CIELAB, CAM02-UCS, and CAM16-UCS models to verify our estimates. We followed ASTM D4086 standard visual methods for detecting metamerism and for estimating the magnitude of a metameric color difference. Our investigations found that color appearance models are more reliable than CIELAB in evaluating color difference under various LED conditions. CAM16-UCS more accurately predicted the color difference estimates between all three formulas. Our comparative study confirms that the variation in the estimates with the CCT and illuminance levels of the LED sources depends on the color appearance model used. The results also showed that in order to determine the color difference of metameric pairs, optimal conditions regarding the colorimetric properties of the samples and the variability of the observer should be considered separately. We noticed an increasing correlation trend with increasing illuminance. However, there was no such increase or decrease trend in CCTs. The trend of the STRESS change in the color appearance models showed the influence of the chromatic adaptation, but the establishment of adaptation patterns is far beyond the scope of this work. Although our research has had limitations on correlated color temperature and illuminance, we believe that it can be beneficial for the lighting application to ensure correct lighting decisions when assessing the color differences of metameric pairs.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"36 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"77779691","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"INVESTIGATION OF ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE MATERIALS AFTER WASHING","authors":"Irina Martirosyan, O. Pakholiuk, G. Golodyuk, Viktoria Lutskova, V. Lubenets","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-004","url":null,"abstract":"This work is devoted to the study of antimicrobial properties of cellulose-containing textile materials treated with new safe biocidal products of thiosulfonate structure. A resource-saving method of providing antimicrobial properties to cellulose-containing textile materials is presented. High antimicrobial activity of biocidal products after washing was established. The duration of action and expediency of their use in the textile industry are proved. It is shown that after 10 washes the treated tissues lose only 14-15% of antimicrobial properties.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"78326460","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"EFFECT OF MECHANICAL CRIMP OF JUTE FIBRE ON THE THERMAL PROPERTIES OF WOVEN FABRICS","authors":"Shilpi Akter, M. Motalab, M. Helali","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-001","url":null,"abstract":"The aim of this paper is to find the effect of mechanical crimp of jute fibre on the thermal properties of woven jute fabrics. In this study, crimp box and gear crimping method were used to impart mechanical crimp into jute sliver. Crimps were divulged to enhance the cohesion between fibres that make it suitable for spinning. Jute yarns were produced by inserting a different number of crimps and woven fabrics were produced by using these yarns. Fabric thickness, porosity, air permeability and thermal conductivity tests were done according to standard method and found that fabric porosity, air permeability and thermal conductivity of the fabric decreased and fabric thickness increased with the increased number of crimps and fabrics from gear crimping method showed better effect than that of crimp box method. The study on jute woven fabric will provide quantitative experimental data for potential applications with advantages of lightweight, cost-effective, easy to manufacture, biodegradable and excellent mechanical properties.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"58 5 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"87720633","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"PECULIARITIES OF FUNCTIONING AND DIAGNOSTICS OF CROSS-SECTORAL ECONOMIC LINKS OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY OF UKRAINE","authors":"S. Ishchuk, L. Sozanskyy","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-003","url":null,"abstract":"The analysis of cross-sectoral links and their comparative assessments identified the main problems of development of the textile industry of Ukraine. These include: high dependence on imported raw materials and components, low price competitiveness of Ukrainian textile industry products in the domestic market, the concentration of a significant part of production on the production of toll raw materials, imports of used clothing and footwear, cross-sectoral imbalance of Ukrainian textile industry. In particular, it is determined that the products of the textile industry in general, consumed by the Ukrainian economy are almost 60% covered by imports. Products used by the textile industry in their activities (costs) are covered by imports by a total of 49%. Ways to solve the identified problems and, thus, to optimize cross-sectoral linksships are proposed.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"111 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"79312441","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"THE PROCESS OF MAKING BATIK AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF INDONESIAN BAKARAN MOTIFS","authors":"S. Supriyadi, N. S. Prameswari","doi":"10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.15240/tul/008/2022-1-008","url":null,"abstract":"Batik is one of the original handicrafts recognized by UNESCO as Indonesia's cultural heritage. Therefore, this research aims to explore the development of good quality innovative Indonesian batik designs for Micro, Small Medium Enterprise (MSMEs). This is practice based research with data collected through observation and interviews. The result showed that the designs of Bakaran motifs contain elements of the Pati city history, Central Java, Indonesia. The making of batik motif in this research also went through digitalization process for the efficiency of making the next batik. Therefore, the international community is expected to determine the beginning and ending process used by Micro, Small Medium Enterprise (MSMEs) craftsmen in producing good quality batik. Further research needs to be carried out to explore the development of batik Bakaran designs using Druju (Acanthus ilicifolius) flower motifs.","PeriodicalId":12123,"journal":{"name":"Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe","volume":"53 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-03-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88686019","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}