{"title":"Style arbiters and the genesis of best- and worst-dressed lists","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0007","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter looks into the role of central American figures that helped propagate interest in fashion among popular audiences. It describes the nature and origins of the best- and worst-dressed lists through their most emblematic exponents. It problematises the concept of expertise and historicises the role of these personalities as gatekeepers, mediators of cultural capital and entertainers, building up to the magnitude achieved by these lists today.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"1 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122519178","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Fashion and film: a synergetic kaleidoscope","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0001","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0001","url":null,"abstract":"The introduction anchors the contemporary red-carpet phenomenon to cultural shifts at the turn of the 20th Century. More specifically, it links these to the cultural practices of New York Society circles in their attempts to emulate European royal and aristocratic traditions. In doing so, it also tackles the changes brought along by late modernity, including the emergence of American beauty ideals in the media and the first attempts to create awareness around the need for an American fashion scene that could compete with Paris. It briefly discusses the shifting meanings of glamour as a central idea that navigates alongside Hollywood and the red-carpet event. \u0000The concept of heterotopia is used to ground the elusive meaning of Hollywood, and Arjun Appadurai’s notion of the 5-scapes is brought to the forefront to contextualise the multifaceted aspects that need to be taken under consideration when studying the complexities of the red-carpet phenomenon in the context of globalisation. The introduction finally proposes thinking about different periods of fashion at the Academy Awards, structured under Raymond William’s understanding of the emergent, the dominant and the residual, led by shifts in the fashion and film industries.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"27 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"132419200","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"From private gatherings to public spectacle","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0004","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0004","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter addresses the geopolitical reconfigurations triggered by the outbreak of World War II. It analyses the concept of The American Century, coined by Henry R. Luce, its connection to Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s Four Freedoms speech, and the Academy’s actions in joining and supporting these efforts. In this context, the ceremony was transformed from a private banquet into a public spectacle, in remembrance of the grand openings at Sid Egyptian and Chinese Theatres during the silent era, including radio transmissions and fan gatherings, setting in place much of the ceremony structure that persists to date. This period also marks the production of the first short film to publicise the Academy Awards, the advent of the first radio fashion commentator for the ceremony, and the efforts to position New York City as the ‘style center of the world’ that put an end to the dreams of Hollywood as a fashion capital.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123932080","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Tracing the Academy Awards ceremony’s footprint into the mediascape","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0005","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter explores how the ceremony turned into a media event, following its association with television and its journey towards global distribution. It looks into the negotiations behind the first deal to televise the event in NBC, the different venues and networks that carried the event, the Public Relations efforts to accommodate journalists to cover it, the structuring of the red-carpet area as an outdoors spectacle, and the steps to distribute the ceremony abroad.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"69 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"126314483","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Twilight of the idols","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0010","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0010","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter reviews the contemporary status of the red-carpet phenomenon, addressing current debates about its potential as a platform for political protest, raising questions of sustainability and the future of red-carpet fashion, and problematising the fascination with the so-called Hollywood Royalty.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"24 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129186127","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Hollywood designers’ reign","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0003","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0003","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter provides the context for introducing the first Academy Awards banquet, explaining the commercial liaisons between the fashion and film industries that put Hollywood costume designers in the limelight as the foremost exponents of American fashion during the interwar years. In doing so, the book coins the term Hollywood Designers to distinguish those first costume designers who were trained in fashion and worked actively in the industry before and after their positions in the Hollywood studios’ costume departments. The chapter draws a parallel between the conformation of American fashion and film institutions by looking at the politics behind the creation of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and The Fashion Group.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"17 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131951703","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The emergence of fashion conglomerates turns couture into prêt-à-porter","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0008","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter analyses a transitional period in fashion at the Academy Awards ceremony. The global cultural, political and economic turmoil that impacted the fashion and film industries materialised in a clash between emergent and residual voices that blurred formality, glamour and stardom in Hollywood. Throughout this period, the ceremony struggled to find a new identity that could accommodate the emerging youth culture, negotiating tradition and innovation by engaging the so-called New Hollywood exponents. After being in charge of the ceremony's fashion for 18 years, this period marked the end of figures such as Edith Head and paved the way for a succession of costume designers experienced in musicals and colour television. This period also consolidated changes in the fashion industry, leaving couture behind and entering an era of ready-to-wear.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"46 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"125675438","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The fashion revolution","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0009","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter explores the fashion revolution of the 1990s. It discusses how the emergence of cable television with niche signals broadcasting fashion around the globe 24/7 created interest and generated a demand for fashion content that benefitted the promotional strategies of consolidated global fashion conglomerates. In this context, the Oscars rehashed the position of a fashion consultant, now renamed fashion coordinator, putting Fred Hayman in charge. As the owner of a Beverly Hills boutique and founding member of the Rodeo Drive Committee, Hayman had a personal interest in promoting the West Coast fashion scene and in developing the real estate business in Rodeo Drive for the massive disembark of high-end fashion flagship stores. This period at the Academy Awards also marked the ceremony’s return to Hollywood, into the newly built former Kodak Theatre, and the Academy’s production of its own first fashion pre-show with ABC.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"135 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"116124331","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"‘When you wish upon a star …’","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0002","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter discusses the role of advertising agencies and the emergence of endorsement practices using Society women and Hollywood personalities to reach the female market since the early 20th Century. It analyses how Hollywood personalities became fashion experts in newspapers and film fan magazines, and how the advertising industry got involved with Hollywood. The chapter also provides an overview of how the notion of ‘getting the red-carpet treatment’ became popular, creating a collective desire to emulate the jet set.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"10 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131945769","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Creating an international fashion show for the American market","authors":"Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén","doi":"10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0006","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.003.0006","url":null,"abstract":"In this chapter, fashion comes to the forefront to understand how the event was branded as an ‘international fashion show free for all’ as part of the promotional strategies to sell the first broadcast of an Oscar ceremony (Oscarcast). It explains how the Academy created the fashion consultant position for the ceremony, presided then by Hollywood costume designer Edith Head, and its impact in structuring fashion around the ceremony. It also delves into the first televised fashion pre-show, known as Oscar Night in Hollywood (NBC, 1960), sponsored by Procter & Gamble.","PeriodicalId":341840,"journal":{"name":"Fashion on the Red Carpet","volume":"12 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2021-06-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"123938133","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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