{"title":"Eliza Cauchois’s Shift","authors":"Laura f. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0009","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0009","url":null,"abstract":"This chapter examines the “street trade”—the part of the textile market structured by the legal principles associated with textiles. What distinguished the street was its transitory nature. Such markets were the most visible when housed in identifiable locations, such as pawnshops. They also materialized out of thin air and then disappeared just as quickly. People sold out of their homes, on the street, and after church. The street trade was tolerated, but only just, because it altered the rules governing exchange elsewhere in the legal order. That did not make it “extralegal.” Exchange took place out in the open and followed set rules that mirrored those in civil law, the area of the legal system from which those without rights were excluded. The transactions supported within the street trade only seem different because participants used shirts, shifts, and handkerchiefs, not notes and bills of exchange.","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"151 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"122444805","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Polly’s Yarn","authors":"Laura F. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0002","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0002","url":null,"abstract":"Americans conducted their lives with the presumption that everyone could make legal claims to textiles. This chapter explains that situation, exploring the customary practices that, by the time of the American Revolution, had cohered into legal principles, which allowed people without rights—even enslaved people and married women—to make claims to textiles in law, something they could not do with other forms of property. Those principles persisted in the new republic, adding value to textiles by turning them into a secure form of property for those whose legal status made such claims tenuous. Claims to textiles did not involve rights or confer rights. Yet, when draped in textiles, even those without rights assumed distinct legal forms that officials found impossible to ignore: textiles conferred legal power.","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"13 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"128913813","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Jane Cooley’s Loom","authors":"Laura f. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0007","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0007","url":null,"abstract":"The full value of the goods made by women and other marginalized textile producers has been hidden amid presumptions that wives, daughters, the enslaved, and even wage workers could not legally control the goods they produced. The legal principles associated with textiles not only allowed these people to claim such goods but also gave these items value beyond what they fetched at the store. Textile producers were making goods that they could leverage in a variety of ways. As this chapter shows, cloth and clothing could be turned into capital that people without strong claims to rights could control and use to support themselves and their loved ones. These people amassed capital in the same way that they spun, wove, tailored, sewed, mended, and laundered: through the creative application of their labor in circumstances not of their own choosing.","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"66 4","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"131873407","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Rebecca Coles’s Factory","authors":"Laura f. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0005","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0005","url":null,"abstract":"Before mechanization, the work of textile production was done by hand, within households, regardless of whether women or men did it or whether the goods were intended for commercial dissemination or household use. The value of textiles was determined by skill, which was a matter of dexterity, experience, and aesthetics, not gender or the location of production. Good cloth was worth more than bad cloth; well-made garments were worth more than shoddy ones. As this chapter shows, the importance of skill and hand labor in the textile trades persisted in the new republic, even after the onset of mechanization, creating economic spaces for those on the margins. The legal principles associated with textiles also shaped the economics of the textile trades, enabling people without rights to control what they produced and making them more like the white men now identified as manufacturers","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"5 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"127964599","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Catherine Brennan’s Haul","authors":"Laura F. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0011","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0011","url":null,"abstract":"As this chapter shows, the practice of treating disputes over property claims to textiles in the legal form of theft had negative implications in the long run. This legal form made the property claims of people with the full range of rights visible but uncertain. They were always dependent on the specifics: the form that the property took, the people involved, the circumstances, and the sufferance of legal officials. They were always limited, applicable only to the successful claimant and the property in question. They were always punitive. The affirmation of the complainant’s claims turned the unsuccessful defendant into a criminal, who then faced stiff penalties: corporal punishment and/or imprisonment, in addition to monetary restitution. Theft, moreover, turned all property claims into crimes, which made the property defended in this manner seem different and, ultimately, illegitimate.","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"26 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"129718420","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Margaret Ten Eyck’s Accounts","authors":"Laura f. Edwards","doi":"10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0008","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1093/oso/9780197568576.003.0008","url":null,"abstract":"Marginalized people accounted for the production of and trade in textiles with thick descriptions, in oral as well as written forms. This form of accounting might seem different from the record keeping of white male merchants, which tracked credits and debits in ledgers alphabetized by customers’ names. Both forms, however, were financial accounts, with legal implications. Marginalized people’s accounts followed the legal principles of textiles, which established ownership through relationships, not just to the material goods but also to the people who witnessed their production and trade. Those relationships then established credit, with the power to blunt other legal restrictions. For those without strong claims to rights or property, individual claims to property and power were only possible in the context of “we”—a community fashioned in part through the production and distribution of textiles.","PeriodicalId":288295,"journal":{"name":"Only the Clothes on Her Back","volume":"9 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2022-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"133185818","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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