Textile-the Journal of Cloth & Culture最新文献

{"title":"Designing Dua Negeri (Two Countries) Batik Influenced by Indonesia and Thailand Shared Culture to Enrich the Batik Repertoire in Both Countries","authors":"Sandy Rismantojo, Veerawat Sirivesmas, Eakachat Joneurairatana","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2267339","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2267339","url":null,"abstract":"AbstractThe study aimed to explore knowledge about the shared culture between Thailand and Indonesia, the story of Garuda and batik traditions, and develop a new cultural product that represents the two cultures visually in the form of batik based on the findings. Samples were determined purposively from the Mother-Inlay-Pearl doors of the Emerald Buddha Temple at the Grand Palace Bangkok and the Semen Agung Sawat Garuda batik from the collection of King Chulalongkorn. This qualitative-descriptive and comparative study used a compositional interpretation approach to analyze the symbolic meaning of visual styles and text semiotics. The analysis could help develop batik with the Dua Negeri concept based on previous studies, batik expert interviews, and visual experiments. The idea is that one piece of batik displays visual styles from two countries. This study showed that Indonesia and Thailand have a shared culture influenced by Hindu Buddhism due to trade, culture, diplomacy, and kinship relations. Both countries have batik traditions, and each has a distinctive visual style. Therefore, the proposed new Dua Negeri batik design is expected to enrich the batik repertoire in both countries and strengthen cultural relations by respecting each other’s cultures.Keywords: Batik Dua NegeriGarudavisual styletext semiotics AcknowledgementsWith the utmost gratitude, the author would like to thank Assistant Professor Veerawat Sirivesmas and Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana, dissertation advisors, Doctoral Program in Design Arts International Program (DinDA), Department of Decorative Arts at Silpakorn University, and all faculty members for their guidance. Also, many thanks to Miss Asti Suryo Astuti, Assistant Manager of the Danar Hadi Batik Museum, Surakarta (Solo), Central Java, Indonesia, for her time to be interviewed online and to my family and friends for valuable support and encouragement.Disclosure StatementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Notes1 Larangan (Heringa and Veldhuisen Citation1996): forbidden, restricted. Larangan motifs are a term used to refer to motifs whose use was restricted to the sultan, members of his family, and the aristocracy of the central Javanese courts.2 Chinese Peranakan (Rismantojo Citation2021): The people of mixed births during the 15th–19th centuries as a result of a century-long history of transculturation and interracial marriage between the immigrating Chinese people and the local people in Southeast Asian countries, such as Indonesia, the Penang, and Malacca States in Malaysia, Singapore, and the southern part of Thailand in Phuket province. Chinese migrants came as single males because, during the Ming dynasty, women were forbidden to leave China. Therefore, they often married local girls until the ban was lifted at the end of the 19th century.3 Sarong (Roojen Citation2001): A sarong is a piece of cloth of which the short ends are stitched together, forming a simple tubular garment. M","PeriodicalId":227850,"journal":{"name":"Textile-the Journal of Cloth & Culture","volume":"64 3","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"136283486","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Made Done and Mended: Textiles Salvaged, Saved and Sewn","authors":"Stephanie Richards","doi":"10.1080/14759756.2023.2259182","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2023.2259182","url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size Disclosure StatementNo potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).Additional informationNotes on contributorsStephanie RichardsI am the costume curator for Henfield Museum in West Sussex. Day to day work is directed mainly by the local garments in the collection. My remit is to bring the collection out of its boxes and into the community, which I do with talks and exhibits. Presenting items from the collection to an audience keeps history alive and shows costume as more than old clothes. As the sole costume section member I enjoy the challenges posed. Photographing the collection and establishing a detailed costume database proceeds apace. It is also necessary to acquaint myself with costume and textile areas that are new to me. My current research focuses on a set of stays concealed in the old Henfield Workhouse (1735) and trying to uncover their story. As a published author in print and online, the majority of my output is based around costume and social history. I have experience of working with Worthing Museum and History of Art and Design Faculty of University of Brighton. My 2023 contribution to the Costume Society blog “Worn In The War; Looking At Creative Fabric Choices In 1940s Homemade Clothing” featured some exquisite examples of wartime inventiveness and the sheer skill involved.ladyscribe@btinternet.com.","PeriodicalId":227850,"journal":{"name":"Textile-the Journal of Cloth & Culture","volume":"10 4","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-10-25","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135113463","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}

{"title":"Weaving and Dyeing in Highland Ecuador; Andean Textile Traditions. Papers from the 2001 Mayer Center Symposium at the Denver Art Museum","authors":"Penelope Z. Dransart","doi":"10.2752/175183508x327839","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.2752/175183508x327839","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":227850,"journal":{"name":"Textile-the Journal of Cloth & Culture","volume":"5 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"1900-01-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"115404029","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}