GOOD DIGESTION: The Metabolic Politics of Dutch Dairy Farming

In the Netherlands, what dairy cows eat, produce, and excrete is meticulously recorded and controlled. While farmers optimize cows' diets for production, the side effects of this industrial metabolism have recently become problematized in new and strikingly public ways. Since 2019, the country has faced a so-called nitrogen crisis, a set of ecological, legal, and political challenges posed by nitrogen pollution from industrial activities, predominantly livestock farming. This article offers the concept of metabolic politics as a theoretical lens for understanding contestations over the power to organize more-than-human eating and feeding relations. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork with veterinarians and farmers, I contrast governmental interventions in cows' digestive processes with how bovine digestion is cared for on dairy farms. This reveals key features of metabolic politics: struggles over the forms of life that comprise the metabolic polis; clashing ways of valuing the health of organisms and ecosystems; and diverging styles of governing metabolic collectives.