The de-structuration of eating models in East Asia under compressed food modernity: An empirical synthesis

The de-structuration of eating models refers to a multitude of contemporary dietary changes, such as meal skipping and eating out, that diverge from ‘proper’ eating models in given societies. This phenomenon has been studied primarily in Western societies and diagnosed as a more modest change than previously assumed by alarming social discourse. However, this view must be relativised from non-Western perspectives. De-structuration involves the weakening of dietary normative systems and the increased food anxiety, the typical symptoms of reflexive modernity. This concept is theoretically based on the paradigm of ‘plural’ modernities, but it has been scarcely tested empirically in non-Western regions. Web-based questionnaire surveys were conducted from 2021 to 2024 in four East Asian societies that have experienced compressed modernisation. The two studies in Japan (n = 973) and Taiwan (n = 920) have already been reported elsewhere. In this article, discussion on this Japan-Taiwan comparison is further extended with new datasets in South Korea (n = 1039) and China (n = 1035), providing an empirical synthesis of eating models and their de-structuration in four East Asian societies. In contrast to Western societies, de-structuration in East Asia has been more intense than a modest change. Similarly, in Taiwan and South Korea, the degree of change has been so large that de-structuration has extended to dietary norms. In Japan, the norm–practice discrepancy has been intensified by the country's gendered dietary norms. Finally, in China, there has been a time lag between dietary changes and the drastic socioeconomic reforms since the 1980s, manifesting an embryonic form of de-structuration. These phenomena are diverse aspects of compressed food modernity, and our article contributes by providing empirical support for plural views of food modernisation.