通过美容实践浪漫化过去:妆台记》的重构与再文本化

IF 0.5 0 ASIAN STUDIES
Rebecca Doran
{"title":"通过美容实践浪漫化过去:妆台记》的重构与再文本化","authors":"Rebecca Doran","doi":"10.1353/tan.2023.a911975","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract:Zhuangtai ji 妝臺記 (Record of the Dressing Table) is, in its present standard form, a one-chapter compilation comprised of brief entries about women's hairstyle, eyebrows, makeup, and other beauty practices from mythic prehistory through the Song dynasty. It is attributed to early Tang high-ranking official and general Yuwen Shiji 宇文士及 (d. 642) but, although it does contain some materials from the Tang and pre-Tang periods, it is, as it currently exists, a much later work. Although clearly not a straightforward Tang document, Zhuangtai ji contains an especially rich trove of information about the Tang period. The present paper traces to the extent possible the textual history of and sources for Zhuangtai ji while also considering the appeal of the text as a later pastiche that participates in the aesthetic construction of nostalgia for the Tang and earlier periods. In this vein, Zhuangtai ji is approached in comparative perspective through the theoretical lens of nostalgic clothing consumption, and is also considered in tandem with other texts devoted to enumerating and preserving knowledge of women's fashion and beauty trends.","PeriodicalId":41166,"journal":{"name":"Tang Studies","volume":"12 5","pages":"119 - 91"},"PeriodicalIF":0.5000,"publicationDate":"2023-11-16","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Romanticizing the Past through Beauty Practices: Reconstructing and Recontextualizing Zhuangtai ji 妝臺記 (Record of the Dressing Table)\",\"authors\":\"Rebecca Doran\",\"doi\":\"10.1353/tan.2023.a911975\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract:Zhuangtai ji 妝臺記 (Record of the Dressing Table) is, in its present standard form, a one-chapter compilation comprised of brief entries about women's hairstyle, eyebrows, makeup, and other beauty practices from mythic prehistory through the Song dynasty. It is attributed to early Tang high-ranking official and general Yuwen Shiji 宇文士及 (d. 642) but, although it does contain some materials from the Tang and pre-Tang periods, it is, as it currently exists, a much later work. Although clearly not a straightforward Tang document, Zhuangtai ji contains an especially rich trove of information about the Tang period. The present paper traces to the extent possible the textual history of and sources for Zhuangtai ji while also considering the appeal of the text as a later pastiche that participates in the aesthetic construction of nostalgia for the Tang and earlier periods. In this vein, Zhuangtai ji is approached in comparative perspective through the theoretical lens of nostalgic clothing consumption, and is also considered in tandem with other texts devoted to enumerating and preserving knowledge of women's fashion and beauty trends.\",\"PeriodicalId\":41166,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Tang Studies\",\"volume\":\"12 5\",\"pages\":\"119 - 91\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.5000,\"publicationDate\":\"2023-11-16\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Tang Studies\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1353/tan.2023.a911975\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"ASIAN STUDIES\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Tang Studies","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1353/tan.2023.a911975","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"ASIAN STUDIES","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

摘要

摘要:《庄台妆台记》目前的标准形式是一个单章汇编,包括从史前神话到宋代有关妇女发型、眉毛、化妆和其他美容习俗的简短条目。它被认为是初唐高级官员和将军宇文士及(卒于 642 年)所作,但尽管它确实包含了一些唐代和前唐时期的材料,但从目前的版本来看,它是一部晚得多的作品。虽然《庄台记》显然不是直接的唐代文献,但它包含了特别丰富的唐代信息。本文在尽可能追溯《庄台记》的文本历史和来源的同时,还考虑了《庄台记》作为后世仿作的魅力,它参与了对唐朝和更早时期的怀旧美学建构。因此,本文从怀旧服饰消费的理论视角出发,对《庄台记》进行了比较研究,并将其与其他致力于列举和保存女性时尚和美容趋势知识的文本一并考虑。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Romanticizing the Past through Beauty Practices: Reconstructing and Recontextualizing Zhuangtai ji 妝臺記 (Record of the Dressing Table)
Abstract:Zhuangtai ji 妝臺記 (Record of the Dressing Table) is, in its present standard form, a one-chapter compilation comprised of brief entries about women's hairstyle, eyebrows, makeup, and other beauty practices from mythic prehistory through the Song dynasty. It is attributed to early Tang high-ranking official and general Yuwen Shiji 宇文士及 (d. 642) but, although it does contain some materials from the Tang and pre-Tang periods, it is, as it currently exists, a much later work. Although clearly not a straightforward Tang document, Zhuangtai ji contains an especially rich trove of information about the Tang period. The present paper traces to the extent possible the textual history of and sources for Zhuangtai ji while also considering the appeal of the text as a later pastiche that participates in the aesthetic construction of nostalgia for the Tang and earlier periods. In this vein, Zhuangtai ji is approached in comparative perspective through the theoretical lens of nostalgic clothing consumption, and is also considered in tandem with other texts devoted to enumerating and preserving knowledge of women's fashion and beauty trends.
求助全文
通过发布文献求助,成功后即可免费获取论文全文。 去求助
来源期刊
Tang Studies
Tang Studies ASIAN STUDIES-
CiteScore
0.50
自引率
40.00%
发文量
0
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
copy
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
右上角分享
点击右上角分享
0
联系我们:info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术官方微信