Method Development for Determining β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) in Cosmetics Using m-PFC-HPLC.

Abstract

Background: As a new cosmetic ingredient, NMN is widely used in cosmetics production, but due to the lack of detection method, quality control of related products cannot be achieved.

Objective: This study will develop a detection method for NMN in three matrices (facial mask essence, emulsion and cream) for quality control of related cosmetics.

Methods: Given the high ester content in facial emulsions and creams, which can hinder the detection of trace substances, a novel multiplug filtration clean-up (m-PFC) purification column packed with multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs) was employed to purify these matrices. An HPLC method for NMN in three matrices (facial mask essence, emulsion, and cream) was established. Methodological verification was conducted.

Results: Results demonstrated a good linear relationship within the range of 5.0-500 μg/mL, with a limit of quantification (LOQ) of 5.0 mg/kg. The precision experiment's relative standard deviation (RSD) was less than 3%, and the RSD for six repeated experiments ranged from 1.2% to 5.3%, indicating the method's stability, reliability, and good repeatability. Recovery rates in the three cosmetic matrices were between 93.9% and 109.4%, with an RSD below 3.7%. This method was applied to detect NMN content in seven cosmetics purchased from an e-commerce platform, some products claiming to contain NMN did not detect NMN.

Conclusion: This method had the advantages of simple operation, high sensitivity, and good accuracy, provides technical support for cosmetic regulation.

Highlights: Through this study, we should raise awareness and supervision of NMN cosmetics by establishing relevant standards.