软选择性男子气概:在圣彼得堡指甲艺术家的案例

Elvira M. Arif, Arina Reviakina
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摘要

本文分析了对圣彼得堡美甲师的15次半结构化采访。根据象征性和定量指标,美容行业被确定为“女性”的专业领域。在文化中,关怀、提供服务和创造吸引力的工作被象征性地确定为“妇女”领域。在美容行业中,女性人数多于男性,客户也大多是女性。美甲师和女性客户之间互动的显著特征是,它包括情感工作和身体接触情况下的护理。与医疗领域相反,美容行业的护理是可见的,因为它涉及客户的视觉形象;它可以被她控制和评估。这篇文章的目的是描述美甲艺术家在美容行业中对女性客户身体的可见护理领域对男性气质的建构。在本文的实证部分,我们确定并描述了美甲艺术家在Raewyn Connell指出的四种结构模型框架内遵循的做法;模型的权力关系、生产关系、情感关系和符号关系。来自美容行业的男性被认为是“女性”的领域,他们产生了混合的男子气概,被称为“软选择性男子气概”。根据研究发现,美甲师对女性客户提供情感服务,而不是对同事。在与女性客户合作时,男性提供三种类型的情感工作:控制情绪、沟通和关注。他们创造了与女性客户的互动,这是基于附属的男性气质,因此,男性直接或间接地从至高无上的特权中受益。如果不与他们作为提供者的角色发生冲突,或者成为实现这一角色的条件,男人会选择柔软的选择性男子气概。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Soft Selective Masculinity: The Case of Nail Artists in Saint Petersburg
The article is written on the analysis of 15 semi-structured interviews with nail artists working in the city of Saint Petersburg. The beauty industry is identified as a “woman's” professional sphere according to symbolic and quantitative indicators. Care, provision of services and work on the creation of attractiveness are symbolically identified as the “woman’s” sphere in culture. Women outnumber men in professions of the beauty industry, and the clients are mostly women. The distinguishing characteristic of interaction between the nail artist and the woman client is that it includes emotional work and care in the situation of body contact. As opposed to the medical field, care is visible in the beauty industry because it deals with the client’s visual image; it can be controlled and evaluated by her. The purpose of the article is to describe the construction of masculinity by nail artists in the field of visible care of the woman clients’ bodies in the beauty industry. In the empirical part of the text, we identified and described the practices that nail artists follow within the framework of models of four structures indicated by Raewyn Connell; power relation, production relation, emotional relation and symbolic relation of the model. Men from the beauty industry which is identified as a “woman’s” sphere, produce hybrid masculinity which was named soft selective masculinity. Based on the research findings, nail artists provide emotional work towards their woman clients but not towards their colleagues. As working with woman clients, men provide three types of emotional work: controlling emotions, communication and attention. They create interaction with woman clients which is based on accessory masculinity, whereby, directly and indirectly, men benefit from the privileges of supremacy. Men opt for soft selective masculinity, if it doesn’t come into collision with their role of providers or becomes a condition for reaching it.
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