平衡账目:创建负责任的时尚商业教育模式

IF 0.3 0 ART
Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas, R. Varley, A. Roncha
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引用次数: 7

摘要

时装业在可持续性方面面临着诸多挑战;低成本高营业额的商业模式的优势引发了关于时尚伦理的问题(Shaw et al., 2004)。时尚与可持续性的合作在设计和生产领域最为明显,而在社会责任管理领域则发展得不那么好,尽管将道德商业和可持续性融入毕业生的属性越来越被视为教育工作者的优先事项(Sims, Brinkmann, Sims和Nelson, 2011)。2007年联合国负责任管理教育原则是高等教育机构将企业社会责任融入教育、研究和校园实践的参与框架(unprme.org)。这一全球契约倡议是为应对全球经济危机而发展起来的,作为一个框架,商学院可以根据该框架审核社会责任课程和实践的进展情况。目的是六项原则中的第一项,要求教育工作者培养学生的能力,“成为未来为商业和社会创造可持续价值的创造者,并为包容和可持续的全球经济而努力”(unprme.org)。作为时尚商业研究人员和教育者,我们有责任指导学生在当今时尚行业面临的严重问题上发展自己的立场。本文探讨了本科和研究生阶段的一系列课程干预措施,这些课程干预措施向时装商业专业的学生介绍了21世纪时装企业面临的复杂的实践和道德挑战,并从可持续发展的角度探讨了时装产业的各个方面:生产、设计和推广。通过作者的研究和教学,案例研究,讲座,研讨会和评估任务的设计,使学生对可持续发展有360度的了解,并促进学生开发创造性的解决方案,以应对我们行业的挑战。其中一项教学倡议入围了2015年大学和学院环境协会(EAUC)绿色礼服奖。它包括一系列可持续发展冠军的客座讲座,之后学生们对初创时尚品牌进行了可持续发展审计,并提出了设计和营销策略,将可持续性作为差异化和附加值的关键来源(Aaker & McLoughlin, 2010)。在了解了纺织废料等问题和机会(如共同创造和零浪费设计)后,学生们的参与度很高,反应积极:“这个项目的可持续性部分改变了我看待时尚的方式,因为我对影响时尚的可持续问题有了更高的认识。”(学生反馈)。另一项基于作者对创新商业模式的研究的倡议是,利用他们对社会企业的案例研究作为时尚营销策略单元的基础,该单元使用真实的时尚行业案例(包括我们自己的校友),鼓励就时尚领域的难题——经济、社会和环境可持续性之间的平衡——进行辩论。在本文探讨的这些和其他创新时尚商业课程示例中,我们的研究和教学旨在发现并回应对共享价值概念日益增长的兴趣(Porter & Kramer, 2011),特别是在新一代学生中(Jarvis, 2016)。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Balancing the books: Creating a model of responsible fashion business education
Abstract The fashion industry has well-documented challenges around sustainability; the predominance of the low-cost-high-turnover business model raises questions about fashion’s ethics (Shaw et al., 2004). Fashion’s engagement with sustainability is most visible in design and production areas and is much less well developed in the area of socially responsible management, although integrating ethical business and sustainability into graduates’ attributes is increasingly seen as a priority for educators (Sims, Brinkmann, Sims and Nelson, 2011). The 2007 United Nations Principles for Responsible Management Education are an engagement framework for Higher Education Institutions to embed CSR in education, research, and campus practices (unprme.org). This Global Compact initiative developed in response to the global economic crisis, as a framework against which business schools can audit progress towards a societally responsible curriculum and practices. Purpose, the first of the six Principles, challenges educators to develop their students’ capabilities ‘to be future generators of sustainable value for business and society and to work for an inclusive and sustainable global economy’ (unprme.org). With our position as fashion business researchers and educators we have a responsibility to guide students as they develop their positions on the serious issues the fashion industry faces today. This paper explores a series of curriculum interventions at undergraduate and postgraduate level which introduce fashion business students to the complex practical and ethical challenges for 21st century fashion businesses, using the lens of sustainability to explore every aspect of the fashion industry: production, design and promotion. Through the authors’ research and teaching, case studies, lectures, seminars and assessment tasks have been designed to engage students with a 360 degree understanding of sustainability and to promote students’ development of creative solutions to our industry’s challenges. One such teaching initiative was a finalist in the 2015 Environmental Association for Universities and Colleges (EAUC) Green Gown Awards. It involved a series of guest lectures from sustainability champions after which students carried out sustainability audits on start-up fashion brands and proposed design and marketing strategies using sustainability as a key source of differentiation and added value (Aaker & McLoughlin, 2010). Learning about issues such as textile waste and opportunities e.g. co-creation and no-waste design, engagement was high and students responded positively: ‘The sustainability part of this project has changed the way in which I look at fashion due to my heightened awareness of the sustainable issues affecting fashion’ (student feedback). Another initiative based on the authors’ research into innovative business models, uses their case study on social enterprise as the basis for a Fashion Marketing Strategy unit which uses real fashion industry examples, including our own alumni, to encourage debate about fashion’s difficult questions- the balance between economic, social and environmental sustainability. In these and other innovative fashion business curriculum examples explored in this paper, our research and teaching aims to find and respond to an increased interest in concepts of shared value (Porter & Kramer, 2011) particularly evident in new generations of students (Jarvis, 2016).
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