当西方与东方相遇:19世纪西方儿童时尚的教育之旅

Aude Le Guennec
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引用次数: 0

摘要

摘要:尽管儿童有说话、操纵和欲望的能力,但他们在社交方面并不成熟。因此,儿童的教育就是通过与成人的不断相互依存以及与他们的物质环境的相互作用,将他们带入历史。时尚作为一种风格,塑造了社会身份,创造了一种历史归属感。按照特定地点、时间和环境的风格穿着,减少了个人之间的特殊性,根据他们的社会角色和等级来穿着(Balut, 2014)。然而,在整个19世纪,水手服、轻骑兵工作服和波西米亚连衣裙是一种顽皮、怀旧和总是特定的儿童时尚的标准。正如这些例子所说明的那样,对东欧轮廓和装饰的迷恋激发了富有的西方孩子意想不到的风格。穿着这些服装的孩子们远不是在玩化妆游戏,而是在欧洲各地旅行,这要归功于他们的服装风格,并尝试不同的着装要求,以可能获得另类的选择。成年人是如何通过儿童的时尚来教育孩子空间、时间和地点的概念,以此来定义他们的社会归属感的?孩子们如何利用这种与他们的服装的互动,不仅建立他们的身份,而且满足他们讲故事的胃口,从而转移教育者和制作者的初衷?本文基于对19世纪欧洲博物馆藏品(服装、百货商店目录、时尚和儿童杂志)的研究,分析了19世纪东欧儿童时尚趋势背后的基本原理,以及这种异国情调的时尚之旅如何证明了儿童物质文化中致力于儿童教育和社会化的一个方面的特殊性。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
When West Meets East: Towards an Educative Journey in Nineteenth-Century Western Children’s Fashion
Abstract:Despite their abilities to talk, manipulate, and desire, children are socially immature (Quentel, 1997). Therefore, children’s education consisted of bringing them into history through a constant interdependence with adults and interaction with their material environment. Fashion, as a style, shaped social identities and created a sense of historical belonging. Being dressed in the style of a certain location, time, and environment diminished particularities between individuals to dress them according to their social role and rank (Balut, 2014). However, through the nineteenth century, sailor suits, hussar overalls and bohemian dresses were the norms of a playful, nostalgic and always specific children’s fashion. As illustrated through these examples, a fascination for Eastern European silhouettes and embellishments inspired unexpected styles for wealthy Western children. Far from playing dress-up, children in these outfits seemed to travel across Europe thanks to their clothing styles and experimented with alternative dress codes to possibly acquire alterity. How did adults play with children’s fashion to educate children in the concepts of space, time, and place as a way to define their social belonging? How did children use this interaction with their clothing not only to build their identity but also to feed their appetite for story-telling and therefore divert the educator’s and maker’s initial intention? Based on the study of nineteenth century European museum collections (garments, department store catalogues, and fashion and children’s magazines), this article analyzes the rationale behind the Eastern European trend in children’s nineteenth century fashion and the way this exotic fashion journey evidenced the specificities of an aspect of children’s material culture dedicated to the education and socialization of the child.
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