Liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry analysis of mauveine extracted from silk fabrics: A Victorian dress in Gunnersbury Park and Museum and a modern Charles Rees bow tie

Fibres from a purple 1860s Victorian-era silk dress were extracted and analysed by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. The analysis was predominantly mauveine A and mauveine B with lesser amounts of other mauveine chromophores. The mauveine provenance of the dress was confirmed and the authenticity of the mauveine established as from WH Perkins Greenford factory by comparison with museum standards. Fibres from a 25-year-old silk bow tie were also analysed by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry, which analysed as predominantly mauveine A with a much smaller amount of mauveine B. Strips of silk were dyed with museum-stored mauveine, and after leaving for 6 months in the light or the dark, the same liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry mauveine analysis shows that mauveine B was not degrading to mauveine A on silk.