"在夏洛特寻找真正的墨西哥美食"

C. Salas, C. Hammelman, Sara Tornabene
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引用次数: 1

摘要

美国新兴的移民目的地,如北卡罗来纳州的夏洛特,正在接纳拉丁美洲和加勒比地区非传统景观的餐馆和市场的涌入。食物冒险家和流散的居民依靠他们在其他地方的经历形成的习惯来理解和确定这些新的食物空间的真实性。为了理解真实性的概念是如何在移民食品场所被使用、构建、体验和解释的,本文依赖于对夏洛特16家食品企业的主要和次要数据的分析,这些企业提供与拉丁美洲和加勒比地区相关的商品。这包括在社交媒体上的客户评论中出现的叙述,辅以对企业主的深入半结构化采访,实地观察,以及对公共媒体的回顾,包括南方美食联盟出版的口述历史。我们发现评论者依赖食物语法,这些语法包括对真实性概念的战略性使用,以及揭示作者习惯的描述符。食物语法和价值判断依赖于外地经验;对身体、语言和菜肴的物质期望;味觉记忆是通过与食材、味道和气味的接触而形成的。本研究通过理解新目的地的移民食物空间是如何通过依赖真实性概念来理解和构建的,从而为移民食物方式、城市地理和修辞方面的文献做出了贡献。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
“Looking for true Mexican food in Charlotte”
Emerging migrant destinations in the United States, such as Charlotte, North Carolina, are receiving an influx of Latin American and Caribbean restaurants and markets in nontraditional landscapes. Food adventurers and diasporic residents rely on their habitus formed by experiences elsewhere to make sense of and determine the authenticity of these new food spaces. To understand how notions of authenticity are used, constructed, experienced, and interpreted in migrant food places, this article relies on an analysis of primary and secondary data on 16 food businesses in Charlotte serving goods associated with Latin America and the Caribbean. This includes narratives emerging in customer reviews on social media complemented with in-depth semi-structured interviews with business owners, field observations, and a review of public media, including oral histories published by the Southern Foodways Alliance. We found that reviewers rely on food grammars that include strategic uses of notions of authenticity paired with descriptors that reveal the writer’s habitus. The food grammars and value judgments relied on experiences in other places; material expectations regarding bodies, languages, and dishes served; and palate memory formed through engagement with ingredients, flavors, and smells. This research contributes to literature on migrant foodways, urban geography, and rhetoric by understanding how migrant food spaces in new destinations are understood and constructed through reliance on notions of authenticity.
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