模特女性:战后英国芭芭拉·戈伦模特形象的创作、传播及其文化意义

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY
Connie Karol Burks
{"title":"模特女性:战后英国芭芭拉·戈伦模特形象的创作、传播及其文化意义","authors":"Connie Karol Burks","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990523","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"During her relatively brief but prolific career, spanning 1947–1954, Barbara Goalen became one of the most successful and widely-recognized fashion models in postwar Britain. Using extant material in her personal archive now housed in the Archive of Art and Design along with other image and text-based sources, this article traces the creation of Goalen’s public persona from anonymous face to renowned personality. Formed predominantly through images and text in mass media, it explores how this constructed ‘model persona’ powerfully denoted a particular aspect of the cultural zeitgeist in Britain at the time. Drawing on theories of photography, semiotics and celebrity the article discusses how Goalen represented and embodied a prescribed ‘ideal’ of society both physically, with her ‘look’, and culturally, with her persona, reflecting the dominant esthetic and cultural standards perpetuated by the fashion industry, and wider society, at the time. Following the growing body of work examining the significance of models in fashion history, this article uses Goalen as an example to demonstrate the important and active contributions that models make toward creating images and disseminating fashion culture, as well as representing a visual legacy of a moment in fashion.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"737 - 755"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2021-10-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Model Woman: The Creation, Dissemination and Cultural Significance of Barbara Goalen’s Model Persona in Postwar Britain\",\"authors\":\"Connie Karol Burks\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990523\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"During her relatively brief but prolific career, spanning 1947–1954, Barbara Goalen became one of the most successful and widely-recognized fashion models in postwar Britain. Using extant material in her personal archive now housed in the Archive of Art and Design along with other image and text-based sources, this article traces the creation of Goalen’s public persona from anonymous face to renowned personality. Formed predominantly through images and text in mass media, it explores how this constructed ‘model persona’ powerfully denoted a particular aspect of the cultural zeitgeist in Britain at the time. Drawing on theories of photography, semiotics and celebrity the article discusses how Goalen represented and embodied a prescribed ‘ideal’ of society both physically, with her ‘look’, and culturally, with her persona, reflecting the dominant esthetic and cultural standards perpetuated by the fashion industry, and wider society, at the time. Following the growing body of work examining the significance of models in fashion history, this article uses Goalen as an example to demonstrate the important and active contributions that models make toward creating images and disseminating fashion culture, as well as representing a visual legacy of a moment in fashion.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51687,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"volume\":\"26 1\",\"pages\":\"737 - 755\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2021-10-27\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990523\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1990523","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0

摘要

在她相对短暂但多产的职业生涯中,从1947年到1954年,芭芭拉·戈伦成为战后英国最成功、最受认可的时装模特之一。本文利用目前收藏于艺术与设计档案馆的戈伦个人档案中的现存材料,以及其他基于图像和文本的资料,追溯了戈伦从匿名到知名人物的公众形象的形成。它主要通过大众媒体中的图像和文本形成,探讨了这种构建的“模范人物”如何有力地代表了当时英国文化时代精神的一个特定方面。本文借鉴了摄影、符号学和名人理论,讨论了Goalen是如何在身体上、在她的“外表”上、在文化上、在她的人格上代表和体现一种规定的社会“理想”的,反映了当时时尚行业和更广泛的社会所延续的主流审美和文化标准。随着越来越多的研究模特在时尚史上的重要性的工作,本文以Goalen为例,展示模特在创造形象和传播时尚文化方面做出的重要和积极的贡献,以及代表时尚时刻的视觉遗产。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Model Woman: The Creation, Dissemination and Cultural Significance of Barbara Goalen’s Model Persona in Postwar Britain
During her relatively brief but prolific career, spanning 1947–1954, Barbara Goalen became one of the most successful and widely-recognized fashion models in postwar Britain. Using extant material in her personal archive now housed in the Archive of Art and Design along with other image and text-based sources, this article traces the creation of Goalen’s public persona from anonymous face to renowned personality. Formed predominantly through images and text in mass media, it explores how this constructed ‘model persona’ powerfully denoted a particular aspect of the cultural zeitgeist in Britain at the time. Drawing on theories of photography, semiotics and celebrity the article discusses how Goalen represented and embodied a prescribed ‘ideal’ of society both physically, with her ‘look’, and culturally, with her persona, reflecting the dominant esthetic and cultural standards perpetuated by the fashion industry, and wider society, at the time. Following the growing body of work examining the significance of models in fashion history, this article uses Goalen as an example to demonstrate the important and active contributions that models make toward creating images and disseminating fashion culture, as well as representing a visual legacy of a moment in fashion.
求助全文
通过发布文献求助,成功后即可免费获取论文全文。 去求助
来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
×
引用
GB/T 7714-2015
复制
MLA
复制
APA
复制
导出至
BibTeX EndNote RefMan NoteFirst NoteExpress
×
提示
您的信息不完整,为了账户安全,请先补充。
现在去补充
×
提示
您因"违规操作"
具体请查看互助需知
我知道了
×
提示
确定
请完成安全验证×
copy
已复制链接
快去分享给好友吧!
我知道了
右上角分享
点击右上角分享
0
联系我们:info@booksci.cn Book学术提供免费学术资源搜索服务,方便国内外学者检索中英文文献。致力于提供最便捷和优质的服务体验。 Copyright © 2023 布克学术 All rights reserved.
京ICP备2023020795号-1
ghs 京公网安备 11010802042870号
Book学术文献互助
Book学术文献互助群
群 号:481959085
Book学术官方微信