{"title":"服装决定男人:在数字视觉文化中,男性时尚","authors":"N. Minai","doi":"10.1177/14647001221098817","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"There are few sartorial ensembles as heavily signified as masculine as a suit. This article focuses on the suit within queer fashion digital cultures and spaces to explore how butch of colour digital fashion suits up to offer us different ways to think about masculinity. Intervening in the erasure of women of colour in histories of fashion – including menswear – and histories of sexuality – butch, dapper, tomboy, dandy – I argue that butch digital fashion works as a site and composition of flesh, fabric and feeling that reworks masculinity as a project of embodiment. I look at three interwoven dimensions of butch digital fashion – aesthetic process, texture as feeling and spatial imaginations – attending to the themes of fantasy, desire and pleasure. I situate butch within and between fashion studies and media studies to offer butch as a relation, practice, orientation and site of embodiment to think about being and becoming, about the body politics of space and feeling, as matters of race, sexuality, class and gender – and the materialities of race, sexuality, class and gender, mediated by the global, and as the global by the digital. Digital butch fashion is, at once, a visual culture, a creative visual space, a resource of queer fantasy and an aesthetic process. It is messy, tense and fraught with the politics of race, colonialism and class, yet at the same time, dense with possibility, pleasure and eroticism. Butch of colour fashion offers frames and forms for rethinking and remaking masculinity as a sign of a body, as a category of personhood, as a set of practices and feelings made coherent by processes of embodiment.","PeriodicalId":47281,"journal":{"name":"Feminist Theory","volume":"23 1","pages":"370 - 385"},"PeriodicalIF":1.9000,"publicationDate":"2022-05-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"1","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Clothes make the man: butch fashion in digital visual cultures\",\"authors\":\"N. Minai\",\"doi\":\"10.1177/14647001221098817\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"There are few sartorial ensembles as heavily signified as masculine as a suit. This article focuses on the suit within queer fashion digital cultures and spaces to explore how butch of colour digital fashion suits up to offer us different ways to think about masculinity. Intervening in the erasure of women of colour in histories of fashion – including menswear – and histories of sexuality – butch, dapper, tomboy, dandy – I argue that butch digital fashion works as a site and composition of flesh, fabric and feeling that reworks masculinity as a project of embodiment. I look at three interwoven dimensions of butch digital fashion – aesthetic process, texture as feeling and spatial imaginations – attending to the themes of fantasy, desire and pleasure. I situate butch within and between fashion studies and media studies to offer butch as a relation, practice, orientation and site of embodiment to think about being and becoming, about the body politics of space and feeling, as matters of race, sexuality, class and gender – and the materialities of race, sexuality, class and gender, mediated by the global, and as the global by the digital. Digital butch fashion is, at once, a visual culture, a creative visual space, a resource of queer fantasy and an aesthetic process. It is messy, tense and fraught with the politics of race, colonialism and class, yet at the same time, dense with possibility, pleasure and eroticism. Butch of colour fashion offers frames and forms for rethinking and remaking masculinity as a sign of a body, as a category of personhood, as a set of practices and feelings made coherent by processes of embodiment.\",\"PeriodicalId\":47281,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Feminist Theory\",\"volume\":\"23 1\",\"pages\":\"370 - 385\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":1.9000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-05-12\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"1\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Feminist Theory\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"90\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1177/14647001221098817\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"WOMENS STUDIES\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Feminist Theory","FirstCategoryId":"90","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1177/14647001221098817","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"WOMENS STUDIES","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
摘要
很少有服装组合能像西装一样充满男子气概。这篇文章聚焦于酷儿时尚数字文化和空间中的西装,探索色彩的男男性数字时尚如何为我们提供思考男性气质的不同方式。在时尚史(包括男装)和性史(男同性恋、衣冠楚楚、假小子、花花公子)中,有色人种女性被抹去,我认为,男同性恋数字时尚是一个由肉、织物和感觉组成的网站,将男性气概重新塑造成一个具体的项目。我观察了布奇数字时尚的三个交织维度——审美过程、质感和空间想象——关注幻想、欲望和愉悦的主题。我将布奇置于时尚研究和媒体研究之间,将布奇作为一种关系、实践、取向和化身的场所,思考存在和成为,思考空间和感觉的身体政治,作为种族、性、阶级和性别的问题,以及种族、性性、阶级、性别的物质性,由全球和数字媒介来调节。数字布奇时尚既是一种视觉文化,也是一个创造性的视觉空间,是一种酷儿幻想的资源,也是一种审美过程。它混乱、紧张,充满了种族、殖民主义和阶级政治,但同时又充满了可能性、愉悦和色情。Butch of color时尚为重新思考和重塑男性气质提供了框架和形式,将其作为身体的标志,作为人格的一个类别,作为一套通过具体化过程而变得连贯一致的实践和感受。
Clothes make the man: butch fashion in digital visual cultures
There are few sartorial ensembles as heavily signified as masculine as a suit. This article focuses on the suit within queer fashion digital cultures and spaces to explore how butch of colour digital fashion suits up to offer us different ways to think about masculinity. Intervening in the erasure of women of colour in histories of fashion – including menswear – and histories of sexuality – butch, dapper, tomboy, dandy – I argue that butch digital fashion works as a site and composition of flesh, fabric and feeling that reworks masculinity as a project of embodiment. I look at three interwoven dimensions of butch digital fashion – aesthetic process, texture as feeling and spatial imaginations – attending to the themes of fantasy, desire and pleasure. I situate butch within and between fashion studies and media studies to offer butch as a relation, practice, orientation and site of embodiment to think about being and becoming, about the body politics of space and feeling, as matters of race, sexuality, class and gender – and the materialities of race, sexuality, class and gender, mediated by the global, and as the global by the digital. Digital butch fashion is, at once, a visual culture, a creative visual space, a resource of queer fantasy and an aesthetic process. It is messy, tense and fraught with the politics of race, colonialism and class, yet at the same time, dense with possibility, pleasure and eroticism. Butch of colour fashion offers frames and forms for rethinking and remaking masculinity as a sign of a body, as a category of personhood, as a set of practices and feelings made coherent by processes of embodiment.
期刊介绍:
Feminist Theory is an international interdisciplinary journal that provides a forum for critical analysis and constructive debate within feminism. Theoretical Pluralism / Feminist Diversity Feminist Theory is genuinely interdisciplinary and reflects the diversity of feminism, incorporating perspectives from across the broad spectrum of the humanities and social sciences and the full range of feminist political and theoretical stances.