{"title":"波浪在倾斜砂床上传播的粒度分选","authors":"Kaushik Mondal, Susanta Chaudhuri, Vikas Kumar Das, Koustuv Debnath, Bijoy Singha Mazumder","doi":"10.1002/esp.70167","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<p>This study explores the effect of waves on sediment beds of known grain-size distribution under controlled experiments for simulating coastal environments. The experimental setup replicates flat and upward sloping bed conditions, comprising a bimodal grain-size distribution, and evaluates the changes in distribution under the surface waves of different frequencies. The results demonstrate a significant modulation from an initial bimodal to a unimodal grain-size distribution in the sloping bed. In contrast, the original size distribution is retained in the flat bed. Statistical analyses revealed a shift towards finer grains in the upward sloping area, driven by wave-induced sorting mechanisms. It is interesting to note that the observed grain-size distribution in the transitional region from the plane bed to the upward sloping bed follows a Gaussian distribution, as both the coefficients of skewness and kurtosis show zero, irrespective of the wave frequencies. These outcomes align with previous research, contributing to a deeper understanding of sediment transport and grain-size distribution in coastal zones. In addition, prototype field photographs of bedforms because of low tidal waves show immense similarities with the ripple morphology along the upward slope generated in the laboratory flume. Moreover, the concentration of heavier coarse fractions of grains occasionally dropped at the trough regions of the fine-grained ripples of lunate shapes. The study's insights are valuable for improving coastal management strategies, particularly in areas vulnerable to sediment redistribution and erosion.</p>","PeriodicalId":11408,"journal":{"name":"Earth Surface Processes and Landforms","volume":"50 13","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":2.7000,"publicationDate":"2025-10-05","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Grain size sorting because of wave propagation over sloping sand bed\",\"authors\":\"Kaushik Mondal, Susanta Chaudhuri, Vikas Kumar Das, Koustuv Debnath, Bijoy Singha Mazumder\",\"doi\":\"10.1002/esp.70167\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<p>This study explores the effect of waves on sediment beds of known grain-size distribution under controlled experiments for simulating coastal environments. The experimental setup replicates flat and upward sloping bed conditions, comprising a bimodal grain-size distribution, and evaluates the changes in distribution under the surface waves of different frequencies. The results demonstrate a significant modulation from an initial bimodal to a unimodal grain-size distribution in the sloping bed. In contrast, the original size distribution is retained in the flat bed. Statistical analyses revealed a shift towards finer grains in the upward sloping area, driven by wave-induced sorting mechanisms. It is interesting to note that the observed grain-size distribution in the transitional region from the plane bed to the upward sloping bed follows a Gaussian distribution, as both the coefficients of skewness and kurtosis show zero, irrespective of the wave frequencies. These outcomes align with previous research, contributing to a deeper understanding of sediment transport and grain-size distribution in coastal zones. In addition, prototype field photographs of bedforms because of low tidal waves show immense similarities with the ripple morphology along the upward slope generated in the laboratory flume. Moreover, the concentration of heavier coarse fractions of grains occasionally dropped at the trough regions of the fine-grained ripples of lunate shapes. The study's insights are valuable for improving coastal management strategies, particularly in areas vulnerable to sediment redistribution and erosion.</p>\",\"PeriodicalId\":11408,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Earth Surface Processes and Landforms\",\"volume\":\"50 13\",\"pages\":\"\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":2.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-10-05\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Earth Surface Processes and Landforms\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"89\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/esp.70167\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"地球科学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"GEOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Earth Surface Processes and Landforms","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/esp.70167","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"GEOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL","Score":null,"Total":0}
Grain size sorting because of wave propagation over sloping sand bed
This study explores the effect of waves on sediment beds of known grain-size distribution under controlled experiments for simulating coastal environments. The experimental setup replicates flat and upward sloping bed conditions, comprising a bimodal grain-size distribution, and evaluates the changes in distribution under the surface waves of different frequencies. The results demonstrate a significant modulation from an initial bimodal to a unimodal grain-size distribution in the sloping bed. In contrast, the original size distribution is retained in the flat bed. Statistical analyses revealed a shift towards finer grains in the upward sloping area, driven by wave-induced sorting mechanisms. It is interesting to note that the observed grain-size distribution in the transitional region from the plane bed to the upward sloping bed follows a Gaussian distribution, as both the coefficients of skewness and kurtosis show zero, irrespective of the wave frequencies. These outcomes align with previous research, contributing to a deeper understanding of sediment transport and grain-size distribution in coastal zones. In addition, prototype field photographs of bedforms because of low tidal waves show immense similarities with the ripple morphology along the upward slope generated in the laboratory flume. Moreover, the concentration of heavier coarse fractions of grains occasionally dropped at the trough regions of the fine-grained ripples of lunate shapes. The study's insights are valuable for improving coastal management strategies, particularly in areas vulnerable to sediment redistribution and erosion.
期刊介绍:
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms is an interdisciplinary international journal concerned with:
the interactions between surface processes and landforms and landscapes;
that lead to physical, chemical and biological changes; and which in turn create;
current landscapes and the geological record of past landscapes.
Its focus is core to both physical geographical and geological communities, and also the wider geosciences