{"title":"北美东海岸近海的风浪陡度","authors":"Susana Costa , Tiago C.A. Oliveira , Ali Abdolali","doi":"10.1016/j.joes.2024.12.001","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wind-wave steepness along the North Atlantic (27.46 N < lat < 43.53 N and 62.03 W < lon < 80.19 W) is characterized based on at most 37 years (1984 to 2020) of buoy measurements. Wave data from 16 National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and 2 Marine Environmental Data Section (MEDS) stations located at depths ranging from 33 m to 5394 m are used. Intra-annual variability of the full spectrum wave steepness (<em>s</em><sub>m</sub>) and the wind-sea steepness (<em>s</em><sub>mw</sub>) are analyzed. Among the 18 locations, the average <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> ranged between 0.023 to 0.037 and 0.025 to 0.039, respectively. Results show similar intra-annual variability among the different buoys both for <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and for <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> with monthly average maximums occurring between January and February (0.029 < <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> < 0.045, 0.030 < <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> < 0.048) and minimums between July and August (0.018<<em>s</em><sub>m</sub><0.033, 0.019 < <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> < 0.035). The probability distribution function of <em>s</em><sub>m</sub>/<em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> presents a peak between 0.9 and 1.0 for all stations. It is also found that the sea states with the maximum <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> are not directly linked to the maximum events of significant wave height. Practically, these findings can inform the implementation of various ocean engineering endeavors as well as navigation risk determination, as wave steepness exerts a significant influence on several physical processes in the marine environment.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":48514,"journal":{"name":"Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science","volume":"10 5","pages":"Pages 745-760"},"PeriodicalIF":11.8000,"publicationDate":"2025-01-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Wind-wave steepness offshore the North American east coast\",\"authors\":\"Susana Costa , Tiago C.A. Oliveira , Ali Abdolali\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.joes.2024.12.001\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><div>Wind-wave steepness along the North Atlantic (27.46 N < lat < 43.53 N and 62.03 W < lon < 80.19 W) is characterized based on at most 37 years (1984 to 2020) of buoy measurements. Wave data from 16 National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and 2 Marine Environmental Data Section (MEDS) stations located at depths ranging from 33 m to 5394 m are used. Intra-annual variability of the full spectrum wave steepness (<em>s</em><sub>m</sub>) and the wind-sea steepness (<em>s</em><sub>mw</sub>) are analyzed. Among the 18 locations, the average <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> ranged between 0.023 to 0.037 and 0.025 to 0.039, respectively. Results show similar intra-annual variability among the different buoys both for <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and for <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> with monthly average maximums occurring between January and February (0.029 < <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> < 0.045, 0.030 < <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> < 0.048) and minimums between July and August (0.018<<em>s</em><sub>m</sub><0.033, 0.019 < <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> < 0.035). The probability distribution function of <em>s</em><sub>m</sub>/<em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> presents a peak between 0.9 and 1.0 for all stations. It is also found that the sea states with the maximum <em>s</em><sub>m</sub> and <em>s</em><sub>mw</sub> are not directly linked to the maximum events of significant wave height. Practically, these findings can inform the implementation of various ocean engineering endeavors as well as navigation risk determination, as wave steepness exerts a significant influence on several physical processes in the marine environment.</div></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":48514,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science\",\"volume\":\"10 5\",\"pages\":\"Pages 745-760\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":11.8000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-01-13\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"5\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468013325000154\",\"RegionNum\":1,\"RegionCategory\":\"工程技术\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q1\",\"JCRName\":\"ENGINEERING, MARINE\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science","FirstCategoryId":"5","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468013325000154","RegionNum":1,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q1","JCRName":"ENGINEERING, MARINE","Score":null,"Total":0}
Wind-wave steepness offshore the North American east coast
Wind-wave steepness along the North Atlantic (27.46 N < lat < 43.53 N and 62.03 W < lon < 80.19 W) is characterized based on at most 37 years (1984 to 2020) of buoy measurements. Wave data from 16 National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and 2 Marine Environmental Data Section (MEDS) stations located at depths ranging from 33 m to 5394 m are used. Intra-annual variability of the full spectrum wave steepness (sm) and the wind-sea steepness (smw) are analyzed. Among the 18 locations, the average sm and smw ranged between 0.023 to 0.037 and 0.025 to 0.039, respectively. Results show similar intra-annual variability among the different buoys both for sm and for smw with monthly average maximums occurring between January and February (0.029 < sm < 0.045, 0.030 < smw < 0.048) and minimums between July and August (0.018<sm<0.033, 0.019 < smw < 0.035). The probability distribution function of sm/smw presents a peak between 0.9 and 1.0 for all stations. It is also found that the sea states with the maximum sm and smw are not directly linked to the maximum events of significant wave height. Practically, these findings can inform the implementation of various ocean engineering endeavors as well as navigation risk determination, as wave steepness exerts a significant influence on several physical processes in the marine environment.
期刊介绍:
The Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science (JOES) serves as a platform for disseminating original research and advancements in the realm of ocean engineering and science.
JOES encourages the submission of papers covering various aspects of ocean engineering and science.