Günel Nabiyeva, Baran Teoman, Andrei Potanin, Gennady Y Gor
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Sunscreen sensory attribute prediction via textural, rheological and tribological tests.
This study aims to find the quick ways to predict sensorial attributes of sunscreens using instrumental measurements. We specifically focus on the attributes most relevant to consumer 'liking' and the easiest measurements to implement in industrial labs for product development. Of the latter, we consider three types of measurements: emulative 'textural' tests typically performed with a texture analyser as well as rheological and tribological measurements. Textural tests are generally preferred but may be paralleled by rheological measurements provided they are implementable on simple viscometers used in industry (albeit with additional data processing). We found that both textural and simple rheological/viscometrical tests work well for predicting sensorial attributes about flow before (thickness) and during (spreadability) application of the products. Tribology provides useful additional information for the latter but is primarily useful for after-feel or residue attributes (absorption and skin stickiness). These findings show that simple lab tests relying on these techniques can predict human sensory attributes, thus efficiently guide product developers while reducing the need for costly and time-consuming panel studies.
期刊介绍:
The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes.
The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.