Unveiling hidden environmental costs and optimizing sustainable BATs screening in finished fabrics production: An LCA-based approach

The implementation of best available techniques (BATs) is crucial for the sustainable development of the textile industry. However, the selection of BATs is typically based on technical feasibility and immediate environmental benefits, while neglecting comprehensive environmental impacts and hidden costs. This study developed a comprehensive method integrating life cycle assessment (LCA), environmental price, and the VIKOR model with the entropy weight method to evaluate the environmental performance and hidden costs associated with the production of finished fabrics, and to screen sustainable BATs. The results revealed that the overall environmental burden of polyester finished fabrics was 13.30 % lower than that of cotton based on the normalized results. Fiber production was identified as the primary contributor to environmental loads, accounting for an average of 50.67 % of the total environmental burden in the cotton finished fabrics, and 57.75 % in the polyester, respectively. In monetary terms, cotton incurred a higher cost of € 9256.08 per ton, compared to € 4646.72 for polyester, indicating superior eco-efficiency. Additionally, BAT 24 (foam coating technology), BAT 17 (supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing), and BAT 29 (control of mineral oils and sizing agents) were selected as the top priority BATs for sustainable development. These findings highlight the importance of selecting fabrics based on both environmental sustainability and economic considerations. Moreover, the adoption of sustainable BATs can enhance both environmental and economic performance across the textile production value chain.