Yuan Li , Shubin Chen , Jiatao Cai , Shaohua Zhao , Fan Yu , Hongshuai Qi , Chi Zhang
{"title":"滩面滋养下的体波爬升特性","authors":"Yuan Li , Shubin Chen , Jiatao Cai , Shaohua Zhao , Fan Yu , Hongshuai Qi , Chi Zhang","doi":"10.1016/j.oceaneng.2025.122040","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study investigates wave run-up behaviour on nourished beaches with an artificial sandbar through a combination of physical experiments and phase-resolving numerical model SWASH. The research focuses on the dynamic interactions between wave run-up and morphological changes of the nourished beach. Results show that the presence of an artificial sandbar does not always reduce wave run-up. Under specific storm wave conditions, run-up energy on the nourished beach can exceed that on the natural (undisturbed) beach, particularly in low- and mid-frequency bands. This is attributed to wave energy shifting toward lower frequencies and resonances between the artificial sandbar and shoreline, as confirmed by first-order resonant frequency estimations. Temporal analysis of frequency components reveals that variations in crest water depth and seaward slope of the artificial sandbar significantly modulate total, low-, and high-frequency run-up, although high-frequency swash remains dominant throughout the morphological evolution. Existing empirical parameterizations for wave run-up, primarily developed for natural beaches, were evaluated against model results. While reasonable agreements are achieved, they tend to overlook the effects of submerged features and the saturation behaviour of run-up under specific conditions. The run-up prediction accuracy is improved by incorporating the dimensionless crest water depth in the modified formula, demonstrating its potential use for fast predictions of wave run-up on evolving nourished beaches.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":19403,"journal":{"name":"Ocean Engineering","volume":"339 ","pages":"Article 122040"},"PeriodicalIF":5.5000,"publicationDate":"2025-07-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Characteristics of bulk wave run-up on shoreface-nourished beach\",\"authors\":\"Yuan Li , Shubin Chen , Jiatao Cai , Shaohua Zhao , Fan Yu , Hongshuai Qi , Chi Zhang\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.oceaneng.2025.122040\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><div>This study investigates wave run-up behaviour on nourished beaches with an artificial sandbar through a combination of physical experiments and phase-resolving numerical model SWASH. The research focuses on the dynamic interactions between wave run-up and morphological changes of the nourished beach. Results show that the presence of an artificial sandbar does not always reduce wave run-up. Under specific storm wave conditions, run-up energy on the nourished beach can exceed that on the natural (undisturbed) beach, particularly in low- and mid-frequency bands. This is attributed to wave energy shifting toward lower frequencies and resonances between the artificial sandbar and shoreline, as confirmed by first-order resonant frequency estimations. Temporal analysis of frequency components reveals that variations in crest water depth and seaward slope of the artificial sandbar significantly modulate total, low-, and high-frequency run-up, although high-frequency swash remains dominant throughout the morphological evolution. Existing empirical parameterizations for wave run-up, primarily developed for natural beaches, were evaluated against model results. While reasonable agreements are achieved, they tend to overlook the effects of submerged features and the saturation behaviour of run-up under specific conditions. The run-up prediction accuracy is improved by incorporating the dimensionless crest water depth in the modified formula, demonstrating its potential use for fast predictions of wave run-up on evolving nourished beaches.</div></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":19403,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Ocean Engineering\",\"volume\":\"339 \",\"pages\":\"Article 122040\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":5.5000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-07-02\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Ocean Engineering\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"5\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0029801825017469\",\"RegionNum\":2,\"RegionCategory\":\"工程技术\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q1\",\"JCRName\":\"ENGINEERING, CIVIL\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Ocean Engineering","FirstCategoryId":"5","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0029801825017469","RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q1","JCRName":"ENGINEERING, CIVIL","Score":null,"Total":0}
Characteristics of bulk wave run-up on shoreface-nourished beach
This study investigates wave run-up behaviour on nourished beaches with an artificial sandbar through a combination of physical experiments and phase-resolving numerical model SWASH. The research focuses on the dynamic interactions between wave run-up and morphological changes of the nourished beach. Results show that the presence of an artificial sandbar does not always reduce wave run-up. Under specific storm wave conditions, run-up energy on the nourished beach can exceed that on the natural (undisturbed) beach, particularly in low- and mid-frequency bands. This is attributed to wave energy shifting toward lower frequencies and resonances between the artificial sandbar and shoreline, as confirmed by first-order resonant frequency estimations. Temporal analysis of frequency components reveals that variations in crest water depth and seaward slope of the artificial sandbar significantly modulate total, low-, and high-frequency run-up, although high-frequency swash remains dominant throughout the morphological evolution. Existing empirical parameterizations for wave run-up, primarily developed for natural beaches, were evaluated against model results. While reasonable agreements are achieved, they tend to overlook the effects of submerged features and the saturation behaviour of run-up under specific conditions. The run-up prediction accuracy is improved by incorporating the dimensionless crest water depth in the modified formula, demonstrating its potential use for fast predictions of wave run-up on evolving nourished beaches.
期刊介绍:
Ocean Engineering provides a medium for the publication of original research and development work in the field of ocean engineering. Ocean Engineering seeks papers in the following topics.