{"title":"寒潮和台风期间黄河口的波浪动力学","authors":"Shenghan Gao , Miaohua Mao , Meng Xia","doi":"10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102568","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>The Yellow River Estuary (YRE), located in the semi-enclosed Bohai Sea, is characterized by complex shorelines and shallow water depths and is vulnerable to high waves during extreme weather events. Therefore, a dual-nested third-generation wave model was applied to investigate wave dynamics during Typhoons In-Fa (2021) and Mui-Fa (2022) and a pair of cold wave events in 2021 and 2022. The YRE model was refined to reproduce realistic high-resolution terrain and then calibrated against observations at four long-term buoy stations. Results indicate that wave characteristics closely correlate with winds, modulated by local bathymetry. During cold waves, the temporal evolution of the significant wave height (<em>H<sub>s</sub></em>) exhibits double peaks, whereas a single peak is observed during typhoons due to alternative development responses to winds. This resulted in a 1.5-h time lag between <em>H<sub>s</sub></em> and winds. Wind waves primarily dominate sea states, while swells occur after the typhoon passage. Bathymetric refraction plays an essential role in sheltering the southern region of the YRE from remotely energetic swells. Further investigations reveal that depth-induced breaking and whitecapping jointly control wave energy dissipation. Bathymetric heterogeneity and shoaling processes substantially influence wave energy, resulting in wave attenuation and spatial variability. Intense triad wave-wave interactions and wave breaking contribute to increased <em>H<sub>s</sub></em>, causing multiple wave-breaking processes during propagation. The findings in the YRE help enhance the understanding of wave dynamics in similar shallow-water mega deltas and estuaries.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":19457,"journal":{"name":"Ocean Modelling","volume":"197 ","pages":"Article 102568"},"PeriodicalIF":3.1000,"publicationDate":"2025-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Wave dynamics in the Yellow River Estuary during cold wave and typhoon events\",\"authors\":\"Shenghan Gao , Miaohua Mao , Meng Xia\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.ocemod.2025.102568\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><div>The Yellow River Estuary (YRE), located in the semi-enclosed Bohai Sea, is characterized by complex shorelines and shallow water depths and is vulnerable to high waves during extreme weather events. Therefore, a dual-nested third-generation wave model was applied to investigate wave dynamics during Typhoons In-Fa (2021) and Mui-Fa (2022) and a pair of cold wave events in 2021 and 2022. The YRE model was refined to reproduce realistic high-resolution terrain and then calibrated against observations at four long-term buoy stations. Results indicate that wave characteristics closely correlate with winds, modulated by local bathymetry. During cold waves, the temporal evolution of the significant wave height (<em>H<sub>s</sub></em>) exhibits double peaks, whereas a single peak is observed during typhoons due to alternative development responses to winds. This resulted in a 1.5-h time lag between <em>H<sub>s</sub></em> and winds. Wind waves primarily dominate sea states, while swells occur after the typhoon passage. Bathymetric refraction plays an essential role in sheltering the southern region of the YRE from remotely energetic swells. Further investigations reveal that depth-induced breaking and whitecapping jointly control wave energy dissipation. Bathymetric heterogeneity and shoaling processes substantially influence wave energy, resulting in wave attenuation and spatial variability. Intense triad wave-wave interactions and wave breaking contribute to increased <em>H<sub>s</sub></em>, causing multiple wave-breaking processes during propagation. The findings in the YRE help enhance the understanding of wave dynamics in similar shallow-water mega deltas and estuaries.</div></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":19457,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Ocean Modelling\",\"volume\":\"197 \",\"pages\":\"Article 102568\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":3.1000,\"publicationDate\":\"2025-05-30\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Ocean Modelling\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"89\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S146350032500071X\",\"RegionNum\":3,\"RegionCategory\":\"地球科学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Ocean Modelling","FirstCategoryId":"89","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S146350032500071X","RegionNum":3,"RegionCategory":"地球科学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"METEOROLOGY & ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCES","Score":null,"Total":0}
Wave dynamics in the Yellow River Estuary during cold wave and typhoon events
The Yellow River Estuary (YRE), located in the semi-enclosed Bohai Sea, is characterized by complex shorelines and shallow water depths and is vulnerable to high waves during extreme weather events. Therefore, a dual-nested third-generation wave model was applied to investigate wave dynamics during Typhoons In-Fa (2021) and Mui-Fa (2022) and a pair of cold wave events in 2021 and 2022. The YRE model was refined to reproduce realistic high-resolution terrain and then calibrated against observations at four long-term buoy stations. Results indicate that wave characteristics closely correlate with winds, modulated by local bathymetry. During cold waves, the temporal evolution of the significant wave height (Hs) exhibits double peaks, whereas a single peak is observed during typhoons due to alternative development responses to winds. This resulted in a 1.5-h time lag between Hs and winds. Wind waves primarily dominate sea states, while swells occur after the typhoon passage. Bathymetric refraction plays an essential role in sheltering the southern region of the YRE from remotely energetic swells. Further investigations reveal that depth-induced breaking and whitecapping jointly control wave energy dissipation. Bathymetric heterogeneity and shoaling processes substantially influence wave energy, resulting in wave attenuation and spatial variability. Intense triad wave-wave interactions and wave breaking contribute to increased Hs, causing multiple wave-breaking processes during propagation. The findings in the YRE help enhance the understanding of wave dynamics in similar shallow-water mega deltas and estuaries.
期刊介绍:
The main objective of Ocean Modelling is to provide rapid communication between those interested in ocean modelling, whether through direct observation, or through analytical, numerical or laboratory models, and including interactions between physical and biogeochemical or biological phenomena. Because of the intimate links between ocean and atmosphere, involvement of scientists interested in influences of either medium on the other is welcome. The journal has a wide scope and includes ocean-atmosphere interaction in various forms as well as pure ocean results. In addition to primary peer-reviewed papers, the journal provides review papers, preliminary communications, and discussions.