In Vitro and In Vivo Evaluation of an Emollient-Rich Moisturizer Developed to Address Three Critical Elements of Natural Moisturization

Background

A new, emollient-rich moisturizing cream has been developed to support three critical elements of natural skin moisturization—hyaluronic acid, natural moisturizing factors, and lipids.

Aims

The aim of this study was to evaluate in vitro biomarkers associated with skin hydration and barrier support, followed by in vivo clinical hydration assessment and tolerability.

Methods

Using an in vitro epidermal skin model, tissues were treated with the study moisturizer or control (saline) for 24 h. Genes associated with hydration and barrier support were analyzed: claudin 4 (CLD4), aquaporin 3 (AQP3), hyaluronic acid synthase 2 (HAS2), and hyaluronidase 1 (HYAL1). The clinical study evaluated twice-daily use of the study moisturizer in subjects with moderate-to-severe dry skin. Subject satisfaction and skin hydration measurements were captured at baseline, 2, 4, and 8 weeks.

Results

Increased expression of CLD4, AQP3, and HAS2 and reduced activity of HYAL1 were demonstrated after 24 h. In subjects applying the study moisturizer, significant mean percent improvements from baseline in skin hydration occurred at Weeks 2 (41%; p < 0.0001), 4 (38%; p < 0.0001), and 8 (116%; p < 0.0001). Ninety-six percent of subjects reported their skin felt hydrated after 8 weeks.

Conclusions

An emollient-rich moisturizing cream developed to support three critical elements of natural skin moisturization increased the expression of biomarkers associated with skin barrier support and hydration, and reduced the expression of HA-degrading enzymes. Early, significant increases in skin hydration were observed.