通过人工老化过程评估用于制造皮革制品的各种皮革鞣制技术的耐用性

IF 5.3 Q2 ENGINEERING, ENVIRONMENTAL
Agnès Thomasset , Stéphane Benayoun
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引用次数: 0

摘要

在可持续消费需求不断增长的背景下,尤其是在时尚界,皮革仍然是一种耐人寻味的材料。它的耐用性和质量不仅确保了产品的使用寿命,而且还支持了二手使用和升级再造等做法的兴起。与广泛使用的铬鞣相比,本研究评估了鞣革替代品(基于三嗪的鞣革以及合成单宁和植物单宁的组合)的使用寿命。对使用这三种方法鞣制的皮革进行了人工老化处理,包括加热、湿度、紫外线照射和微生物条件。在进行化学分析的同时,还进行了工业标准中通常规定的物理机械测量,以评估与铬鞣相关的潜在降解作为参考。老化过程影响了皮革的性能,但成品皮革仍然适合应用。事实上,成品皮革的结果表明,老化后的降解程度极低,这强调了保护层对皮革使用寿命的重要性。需要考虑的问题包括根据表面结构进行涂饰,以及解决三嗪鞣革潜在的僵硬问题,这些都需要进一步的探索。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。

Assessing the durability of diverse leather tanning techniques for the manufacturing of leather goods through artificial aging processes

Assessing the durability of diverse leather tanning techniques for the manufacturing of leather goods through artificial aging processes

In the context of the growing demand for sustainable consumption, especially in the fashion industry, leather remains an intriguing material. Its durability and quality not only ensure the longevity of products but also support the rise of practices like second-hand use and upcycling. This study evaluates the longevity of tanning alternatives - triazine-based and a combination of synthetic and vegetable tannins - compared to the widely used chrome tanning. Artificial aging processes, incorporating heat, humidity, UV exposure, and microbial conditions, were applied to leathers tanned with the three methods. Physico-mechanical measurements, commonly specified in industrial standards, were conducted alongside chemical analyses to evaluate potential degradations associated with chrome tanning as the reference. The aging processes impacted leather performances, but finished leathers remained suitable for applications. Indeed, results on finished leathers indicated minimal degradation after aging, emphasizing the importance of the protective layer for longevity. Considerations include adapting finishing to surface structures and addressing potential stiffness in triazine-tanned leather, necessitating further exploration.

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来源期刊
Cleaner Engineering and Technology
Cleaner Engineering and Technology Engineering-Engineering (miscellaneous)
CiteScore
9.80
自引率
0.00%
发文量
218
审稿时长
21 weeks
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