{"title":"通过人工老化过程评估用于制造皮革制品的各种皮革鞣制技术的耐用性","authors":"Agnès Thomasset , Stéphane Benayoun","doi":"10.1016/j.clet.2024.100807","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"<div><p>In the context of the growing demand for sustainable consumption, especially in the fashion industry, leather remains an intriguing material. Its durability and quality not only ensure the longevity of products but also support the rise of practices like second-hand use and upcycling. This study evaluates the longevity of tanning alternatives - triazine-based and a combination of synthetic and vegetable tannins - compared to the widely used chrome tanning. Artificial aging processes, incorporating heat, humidity, UV exposure, and microbial conditions, were applied to leathers tanned with the three methods. Physico-mechanical measurements, commonly specified in industrial standards, were conducted alongside chemical analyses to evaluate potential degradations associated with chrome tanning as the reference. The aging processes impacted leather performances, but finished leathers remained suitable for applications. Indeed, results on finished leathers indicated minimal degradation after aging, emphasizing the importance of the protective layer for longevity. Considerations include adapting finishing to surface structures and addressing potential stiffness in triazine-tanned leather, necessitating further exploration.</p></div>","PeriodicalId":34618,"journal":{"name":"Cleaner Engineering and Technology","volume":"22 ","pages":"Article 100807"},"PeriodicalIF":5.3000,"publicationDate":"2024-09-12","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666790824000879/pdfft?md5=11c168d509c0f7d9c062e7909e0f064d&pid=1-s2.0-S2666790824000879-main.pdf","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Assessing the durability of diverse leather tanning techniques for the manufacturing of leather goods through artificial aging processes\",\"authors\":\"Agnès Thomasset , Stéphane Benayoun\",\"doi\":\"10.1016/j.clet.2024.100807\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"<div><p>In the context of the growing demand for sustainable consumption, especially in the fashion industry, leather remains an intriguing material. Its durability and quality not only ensure the longevity of products but also support the rise of practices like second-hand use and upcycling. This study evaluates the longevity of tanning alternatives - triazine-based and a combination of synthetic and vegetable tannins - compared to the widely used chrome tanning. Artificial aging processes, incorporating heat, humidity, UV exposure, and microbial conditions, were applied to leathers tanned with the three methods. Physico-mechanical measurements, commonly specified in industrial standards, were conducted alongside chemical analyses to evaluate potential degradations associated with chrome tanning as the reference. The aging processes impacted leather performances, but finished leathers remained suitable for applications. Indeed, results on finished leathers indicated minimal degradation after aging, emphasizing the importance of the protective layer for longevity. Considerations include adapting finishing to surface structures and addressing potential stiffness in triazine-tanned leather, necessitating further exploration.</p></div>\",\"PeriodicalId\":34618,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Cleaner Engineering and Technology\",\"volume\":\"22 \",\"pages\":\"Article 100807\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":5.3000,\"publicationDate\":\"2024-09-12\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666790824000879/pdfft?md5=11c168d509c0f7d9c062e7909e0f064d&pid=1-s2.0-S2666790824000879-main.pdf\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Cleaner Engineering and Technology\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666790824000879\",\"RegionNum\":0,\"RegionCategory\":null,\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"Q2\",\"JCRName\":\"ENGINEERING, ENVIRONMENTAL\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Cleaner Engineering and Technology","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666790824000879","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"Q2","JCRName":"ENGINEERING, ENVIRONMENTAL","Score":null,"Total":0}
Assessing the durability of diverse leather tanning techniques for the manufacturing of leather goods through artificial aging processes
In the context of the growing demand for sustainable consumption, especially in the fashion industry, leather remains an intriguing material. Its durability and quality not only ensure the longevity of products but also support the rise of practices like second-hand use and upcycling. This study evaluates the longevity of tanning alternatives - triazine-based and a combination of synthetic and vegetable tannins - compared to the widely used chrome tanning. Artificial aging processes, incorporating heat, humidity, UV exposure, and microbial conditions, were applied to leathers tanned with the three methods. Physico-mechanical measurements, commonly specified in industrial standards, were conducted alongside chemical analyses to evaluate potential degradations associated with chrome tanning as the reference. The aging processes impacted leather performances, but finished leathers remained suitable for applications. Indeed, results on finished leathers indicated minimal degradation after aging, emphasizing the importance of the protective layer for longevity. Considerations include adapting finishing to surface structures and addressing potential stiffness in triazine-tanned leather, necessitating further exploration.