无性别已经成为时尚设计的标签了吗?

Eduarda Loureiro
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引用次数: 1

摘要

“无性别”这个词承载着一种文化和社会负担,普通受众和一些世界上最受关注的品牌都没有这种负担。有一些顶级设计师尝试过,试图展示一个没有二元性别界限的世界,但传达的信息仍然不准确。如果说时装设计的根源在于观者的生活方式,那么一些品牌通过中性、基本和无形的设计来展示他们的无性别理念,代表的是什么样的生活方式呢?时尚是一种艺术,人们可以通过它来表达自己,但似乎总是有一个限制。年轻一代正在质疑这些限制,并确立我们可以穿自己想穿的衣服,只要它能代表我们最感兴趣的性别,或者根本不穿。“无性别”这个词出现了激增,一些知名品牌正在用它来宣传,这只能被指出是他们的营销议程。重要的是要明白,大多数这些品牌都没有做足功课,也没有与那些真正经历过非二元现实的人交谈。问题不一定是“无性别的”这个词的使用,而是对那些甚至没有参与对话的人的经历的挪用。本文想要探讨的是,无性别似乎已经成为品牌和设计师试图吸引另一群受众的一种标签和营销举措。但同时也在探索这种方式是如何失败的,尤其是当涉及到与生活在二元之外的人的日常经历进行沟通和联系时。通过上下文调查和个人访谈,我们打算深入了解这个世界的体验,包括积极和消极的一面,试图理清无性别是否只是一种趋势,还是完全是别的什么。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
Has Genderless Become a Fashion Design Label?
The word ‘genderless’ carries a cultural and social burden that hasn’t bestowed upon the general audience nor some of the most spoken about brands in the world. There have been top tier designers that have dipped their toes and tried to show a world without binary gender boundaries, but the message is still not accurate. If fashion design seeks its roots in the lifestyle of the beholder, than what lifestyle are some brands representing by showcasing their genderless ideas as neutral, basic and shapeless designs? Fashion is the art through which people can express themselves, but there always seems to be a limitation. The younger generations are questioning those limitations and establishing that we can wear what we want, as long as it’s representative of the gender we feel most, or not at all. There has been a surge of the word ‘genderless’ and several well-established brands are using it to promote, of what can only be pointed out as their marketing agendas. It’s important to understand that most of these brands haven’t done their homework and they haven’t talked to the people who actually go through the experience of a non-binary reality. The problematic isn’t necessarily the use of the word ‘genderless’, it’s the appropriation of the experience of people who aren’t even a part of the conversation. The present paper wants to explore how genderless seems to have become a label and a marketing move for brands and designers to try and engage with yet another audience. But also an exploration of how that is failing, especially when it comes to communicating and relating to the everyday experiences of people who live beyond the binary. Through contextual inquiries and personal interviews, we intent to dive into this experience of the world, with the positives and negatives, trying to sort if genderless is just a trend, or something else entirely. 
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