{"title":"Arc’teryx and the luxury of disruption: Sustainable drivers of a fashionable brand","authors":"M. O’Connell","doi":"10.1386/ipol_00012_1","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"In Canada we struggle to recognize homegrown fashion talent, and our benchmarks for identifying quality work are based on imported luxury brands. Paradoxically, however, where we are most successful is when we are at our most Canadian. The Arc’teryx label, for example. This brand that grew from a passion for rock climbing, and whose gear subsequently expanded into luxury athleisure, has a uniquely Canadian DNA, one that actively engages with the natural world, the elements, and whose design and manufacturing directives are guided by a deep respect for sustainable principles. The goal of this research is to examine Arc’teryx to see how a successful fashion label has chosen to incorporate sustainable principles into their daily operations. The methodology for this article draws upon interviews with a key company employee, and it also examines the manufacturing model employed by Arc’teryx and how the fundamental corporate ethos drives decision-making. Theory for this article is adapted from technology and social critic Ursula Franklin’s prescient 1989 Massey College (University of Toronto) lecture series (‘The Real World of Technology’) wherein she examined the social shifts that were being catalysed by ascendant technology. Historically, Canada has been a locus of colonial imports and of raw resource export; perhaps now, the cultural values of Canada can constitute another valuable export commodity. One that is sorely needed as the fashion industry as a whole – in its current structure and practices – is massively destructive to the environment and the workers who manufacture our fashionable luxuries. For Arc’teryx, there may not be the same cachet of status-based cosseted luxury or aspirational identification with a rarefied clientele that a European haute-couture fashionable item carries. Conversely, this brand may illustrate that there is more to the ontology of luxury than just the narrow parameters of the Faubourg Saint Honoré or 5th Avenue. For Arc’teryx it is more about an athletic, holistic aesthetic, one that espouses the ‘luxury’ of a strong, healthy body that actively engages with a pristine, natural environment. Worthwhile aspirations that can have much wider implications when applied to a business model.","PeriodicalId":55901,"journal":{"name":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4000,"publicationDate":"2022-10-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Luxury-History Culture Consumption","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1386/ipol_00012_1","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 0
Abstract
In Canada we struggle to recognize homegrown fashion talent, and our benchmarks for identifying quality work are based on imported luxury brands. Paradoxically, however, where we are most successful is when we are at our most Canadian. The Arc’teryx label, for example. This brand that grew from a passion for rock climbing, and whose gear subsequently expanded into luxury athleisure, has a uniquely Canadian DNA, one that actively engages with the natural world, the elements, and whose design and manufacturing directives are guided by a deep respect for sustainable principles. The goal of this research is to examine Arc’teryx to see how a successful fashion label has chosen to incorporate sustainable principles into their daily operations. The methodology for this article draws upon interviews with a key company employee, and it also examines the manufacturing model employed by Arc’teryx and how the fundamental corporate ethos drives decision-making. Theory for this article is adapted from technology and social critic Ursula Franklin’s prescient 1989 Massey College (University of Toronto) lecture series (‘The Real World of Technology’) wherein she examined the social shifts that were being catalysed by ascendant technology. Historically, Canada has been a locus of colonial imports and of raw resource export; perhaps now, the cultural values of Canada can constitute another valuable export commodity. One that is sorely needed as the fashion industry as a whole – in its current structure and practices – is massively destructive to the environment and the workers who manufacture our fashionable luxuries. For Arc’teryx, there may not be the same cachet of status-based cosseted luxury or aspirational identification with a rarefied clientele that a European haute-couture fashionable item carries. Conversely, this brand may illustrate that there is more to the ontology of luxury than just the narrow parameters of the Faubourg Saint Honoré or 5th Avenue. For Arc’teryx it is more about an athletic, holistic aesthetic, one that espouses the ‘luxury’ of a strong, healthy body that actively engages with a pristine, natural environment. Worthwhile aspirations that can have much wider implications when applied to a business model.
在加拿大,我们很难发现本土的时尚人才,我们识别高质量作品的基准是基于进口奢侈品牌。然而,矛盾的是,我们最成功的时候是我们最加拿大的时候。例如Arc 'teryx标签。这个品牌源于对攀岩的热情,其装备随后扩展到豪华运动休闲,具有独特的加拿大DNA,积极参与自然世界,元素,其设计和制造指令以对可持续原则的深刻尊重为指导。本研究的目的是考察Arc 'teryx,看看一个成功的时尚品牌是如何选择将可持续原则融入其日常运营的。本文的方法论借鉴了对公司一位关键员工的采访,并考察了Arc’teryx采用的制造模式,以及基本的企业精神是如何推动决策的。本文的理论改编自技术和社会评论家厄休拉·富兰克林在1989年多伦多大学梅西学院(University of Toronto)具有先见之明的系列讲座(“技术的真实世界”),其中她研究了由新兴技术催化的社会转变。历史上,加拿大一直是殖民地进口和原材料出口的中心;也许现在,加拿大的文化价值可以成为另一种有价值的出口商品。时尚产业作为一个整体,在其目前的结构和实践中,对环境和制造我们时尚奢侈品的工人造成了巨大的破坏,这是迫切需要的。对于Arc’teryx来说,它可能没有欧洲高级定制时装所承载的那种以地位为基础的奢侈或对高端客户的渴望。相反,这个品牌可能说明,奢侈品的本体论不仅仅局限于圣奥诺弗雷德郊区或第五大道的狭窄范围。对于Arc’teryx来说,它更多的是一种运动的、整体的审美,一种支持强壮、健康的身体积极融入原始、自然环境的“奢侈”。有价值的愿望,当应用于商业模式时,可以产生更广泛的影响。