Fashion vs style: The repudiation of fashion in online menswear communities

IF 0.3 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY

International Journal of Fashion Studies Pub Date : 2019-04-01 DOI:10.1386/INFS.6.1.3_1

Nathaniel Weiner

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引用次数: 3

Abstract

Members of online menswear communities spend their leisure time engaged in extensive textual discussions of menswear. This article presents some of the findings from a study of these online menswear communities. It is based on an online ethnography of six online menswear forums and 50 in-depth interviews with men from Britain, Canada and the United States who use them. It details how the research participants, despite their passion for clothing, produced a rhetorical distance between style and fashion. Fashion was rejected in favour of what was described as ‘classic menswear’, ‘style’, ‘timeless style’ or simply ‘clothes’. This was a productive critique of fashion’s temporality, with online menswear communities offering a more democratic, inclusive and participatory alternative to men’s fashion. However, this rejection of fashion also reflected the persistent gendering of fashion. As spaces for the discussion of clothing, as opposed to fashion, online menswear communities allowed men to enjoy clothes and consumption without their masculinity being tainted by fashion’s associations with femininity.

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时尚与时尚：在线男装社区对时尚的否定

在线男装社区的成员将他们的休闲时间投入到对男装的广泛文本讨论中。本文介绍了对这些在线男装社区的研究结果。它基于六个在线男装论坛的在线民族志，以及对英国、加拿大和美国使用这些论坛的男性的50次深入采访。它详细介绍了研究参与者如何在风格和时尚之间产生修辞距离，尽管他们对服装充满热情。时尚被拒绝，取而代之的是所谓的“经典男装”、“时尚”、“永恒风格”或简单的“衣服”。这是对时尚的时间性的富有成效的批判，在线男装社区为男性时尚提供了一种更民主、更包容、更参与的选择。然而，这种对时尚的排斥也反映了时尚的持续性别化。作为讨论服装而非时尚的空间，在线男装社区允许男性享受服装和消费，而不会让他们的男性气质被时尚与女性气质的联系所玷污。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Fashion Studies HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-

CiteScore

0.90

自引率

25.00%

发文量