Consolidation of flaking painted decorations on a 20th century cheongsam dress

Abstract

Preparation for an exhibition at the National Museum of Singapore highlighting the cheongsam prompted an investigation into the consolidation of synthetic textiles. Cheongsam, a term used by Cantonese-speaking Singaporeans, usually refers to a tightly fitted dress with an asymmetrical diagonal neckline closure. A mid-20th century cheongsam chosen for the exhibit was in extremely poor condition and any movement caused significant loss to its surface decoration. Very little research on this issue has been carried out in textile conservation, necessitating the review of techniques drawn from other conservation disciplines. Analysis of the textile's manufacture technique via surface morphology and chemical composition using FTIR and SEM improved understanding into the degradation. Investigation of various consolidation materials and application methods using test fabrics identified Aquazol® 50 in ethanol applied with the use of an aerosol spray as an appropriate treatment method. Aquazol® was deemed suitable for the hot and humid Singapore environment and spray application reduced mechanical loss of the fragile decoration. In practice the consolidation treatment of the cheongsam resulted in slight surface tackiness which did not occur during testing. Further research into refining this treatment method for textile conservation can improve current practices of flaking painted textiles.