Clothing and Expressive Revolution: Wearing Jeans in Socialism

IF 0.7 4区社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.2003607

B. Luthar, M. Pušnik

{"title":"Clothing and Expressive Revolution: Wearing Jeans in Socialism","authors":"B. Luthar, M. Pušnik","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.2003607","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract This study investigates jeans use as well as the discursive practices that framed jeans-wearing in 1960s and 1970s socialist Yugoslavia. We adopt a practice theory approach that goes beyond the expressive capacity of jeans and focuses on their material and practical capacity as an epitome of cultural transformation. Practices discussed include embodied practices enabled by jeans and those that have jeans as their target, such as smuggling, dreaming, remaking, appreciation of authentic jeans and rejection of domestic substitutes, emotions about jeans, wearing jeans, and public narratives regarding jeans. We find that the significance of jeans-wearing was created by difficulty of access, the practice of semi-legal smuggling, contact with the West, and the “Italianness” of jeans. Jeans are conceptualized as a key point of connection between material and social transformation and a new structure of feeling, including the intimate experience of the body and its public presentation. We argue that the study of material artifacts as integral to certain practices helps us approach the larger systemic dimensions of (socialist) subjectivity and social transformation against the backdrop of the symbolic boundaries that divided East and West.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"1083 - 1107"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2021-12-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2003607","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}

引用次数: 0

Abstract

Abstract This study investigates jeans use as well as the discursive practices that framed jeans-wearing in 1960s and 1970s socialist Yugoslavia. We adopt a practice theory approach that goes beyond the expressive capacity of jeans and focuses on their material and practical capacity as an epitome of cultural transformation. Practices discussed include embodied practices enabled by jeans and those that have jeans as their target, such as smuggling, dreaming, remaking, appreciation of authentic jeans and rejection of domestic substitutes, emotions about jeans, wearing jeans, and public narratives regarding jeans. We find that the significance of jeans-wearing was created by difficulty of access, the practice of semi-legal smuggling, contact with the West, and the “Italianness” of jeans. Jeans are conceptualized as a key point of connection between material and social transformation and a new structure of feeling, including the intimate experience of the body and its public presentation. We argue that the study of material artifacts as integral to certain practices helps us approach the larger systemic dimensions of (socialist) subjectivity and social transformation against the backdrop of the symbolic boundaries that divided East and West.

查看原文本刊更多论文

服装与表现革命：在社会主义中穿牛仔裤

摘要本研究调查了20世纪60年代和70年代社会主义南斯拉夫的牛仔裤使用情况以及牛仔裤穿着的讨论实践。我们采用了一种超越牛仔裤表现能力的实践理论方法，并将其作为文化转型的缩影，关注其物质和实践能力。所讨论的实践包括牛仔裤和以牛仔裤为目标的具体实践，如走私、做梦、翻拍、欣赏正宗牛仔裤和拒绝国内替代品、对牛仔裤的情绪、穿着牛仔裤以及关于牛仔裤的公共叙事。我们发现，牛仔裤的重要性是由进入的困难、半合法走私的做法、与西方的接触以及牛仔裤的“意大利性”造成的。牛仔裤被概念化为物质和社会变革之间联系的关键点，也是一种新的感觉结构，包括身体的亲密体验及其公开展示。我们认为，将物质文物作为某些实践的组成部分进行研究，有助于我们在区分东西方的象征边界的背景下，探讨（社会主义）主体性和社会转型的更大系统维度。

本文章由计算机程序翻译，如有差异，请以英文原文为准。

求助全文

约1分钟内获得全文求助全文

来源期刊

Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-

CiteScore

2.10

自引率

10.00%

发文量

期刊介绍： The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.