HOW TO CLIMB THE HOLY MOUNTAIN: SHALBUZDAG PILGRIMAGE INFRASTRUCTURAL PROJECTS

Abstract

Mount Shalbuzdag, located in southern Dagestan, on the border with Azerbaijan, is not only one of the highest peaks of the republic, but is also an important pilgrimage destination for this region. The pilgrimage route includes an ascent to nearly the top of the mountain and a visit to a number of holy places on the way to it. The inaccessibility of the place of pilgrimage has led to a greater dependence of the pilgrims on the infrastructure which, to a greater extent, is maintained by the Miskindzha community located at the foot of the mountain. The article discusses the functioning of infrastructure that serves the pilgrims and its role in the economic and political life of the local community. The hegemony of the Miskindzha pilgrimage infrastructure is challenged both by neighbouring villages as well as by big businessmen and government officials. Also, in addition to the location of the pilgrimage on the slope of the mountain, there is another infrastructure system associated with mountain climbing—a climbing base nearby which also has an impact on competitive infrastructure projects in the vicinity of Shalbuzdag. The article is based on field materials collected during the principal investigator’s field work in the Dokuzparinsky district of Dagestan in 2017–2021.