Atmospheric degradation of historic cotton and silk textiles in museums: a review

Abstract

Historic textiles are a vital component of cultural heritage, reflecting identity, craftsmanship and the technologies of their time. Despite their significance, gaps remain in the understanding of textile degradation under indoor conditions, particularly in museum environments. This review synthesises current knowledge on the impact of indoor atmospheric conditions on two widely used natural fibres: cotton and silk. It examines fibre structure and the key mechanisms governing degradation, with particular emphasis on hydrolysis and oxidation. Interactions between multiple environmental stressors in museum atmospheres are discussed, highlighting coupled processes that can accelerate deterioration. The review introduces a structured distinction between mechanisms and a novel perspective on the role of particulate matter as a catalyst of textile alteration, underscores the importance of proxies and multimodal analytical approaches, and provides a critical discussion of transferring kinetic models to textiles. Finally, key knowledge gaps are identified, outlining priorities for future research aimed at mitigating complex degradation mechanisms in historic textiles.