Methods to Detect Antioxidants and Free Radicals in Human Skin and Its Applications with Focus on Asian Skin.

IF 4.1 4区 医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY
Li Chen, Alexandra Lan, Yifan He, Chenxi Bao, Wenting Hu, Shuyun Xi, Leonhard Zastrow, Silke B Lohan, Martina C Meinke, Jürgen Lademann
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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Background: The interaction between antioxidants and free radicals has become increasingly important in cosmetic research. This review is not a conventional literature overview but is primarily based on our own experimental data and methodological developments.

Summary: The first part describes noninvasive spectroscopic techniques, such as resonance Raman spectroscopy are highlighted as robust tools for the in vivo determination of carotenoid concentrations, serving as indirect markers of the skin's antioxidant status. The next section addresses the detection of free radicals. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy is presented as the only direct and quantitative method for detecting free radicals in biological systems. Its application in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo enables controlled assessment of radical formation and antioxidant efficacy, including under defined irradiation conditions. The introduction of the radical protection factor (RPF) provides a standardized parameter to compare the scavenging capacity of individual compounds and complex formulations, thereby supporting product development and claim substantiation. In the last section, in vivo and ex vivo measurements are compared. It is shown that the amounts of free radicals generated in the UV and infrared spectral ranges of solar radiation differ significantly between different skin types. For sun protection, this means that the protective effect of a sunscreen must extend across the entire spectral range of solar radiation, since 50% of the free radicals generated by the sun originate in the visible and infrared spectral ranges.

Key messages: These findings led to the development of a sunscreen important for Asian skin (skin type IV).

人体皮肤中抗氧化剂和自由基的检测方法及其在亚洲皮肤上的应用。
抗氧化剂与自由基之间的相互作用在化妆品研究中变得越来越重要。这篇综述不是传统的文献综述,而是主要基于我们自己的实验数据和方法的发展。第一部分描述了非侵入性光谱技术,如共振拉曼光谱被强调为体内测定类胡萝卜素浓度的强大工具,作为皮肤抗氧化状态的间接标记。下一节讨论自由基的检测。电子顺磁共振(EPR)光谱是生物系统中检测自由基的唯一直接和定量的方法。它在体外、离体和体内的应用可以控制自由基形成和抗氧化功效的评估,包括在规定的照射条件下。自由基保护因子(RPF)的引入提供了一个标准化参数来比较单个化合物和复杂配方的清除能力,从而支持产品开发和声明证实。在最后一节体内和离体测量比较。结果表明,不同皮肤类型在太阳辐射紫外和红外光谱范围内产生的自由基数量有显著差异。为了防晒,这意味着防晒霜的保护作用必须延伸到太阳辐射的整个光谱范围,因为太阳产生的自由基中有50%来自可见光和红外光谱范围。这些发现导致了对亚洲皮肤(IV型皮肤)很重要的防晒霜的开发。
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来源期刊
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 医学-皮肤病学
CiteScore
5.20
自引率
7.40%
发文量
23
审稿时长
>12 weeks
期刊介绍: In the past decade research into skin pharmacology has rapidly developed with new and promising drugs and therapeutic concepts being introduced regularly. Recently, the use of nanoparticles for drug delivery in dermatology and cosmetology has become a topic of intensive research, yielding remarkable and in part surprising results. Another topic of current research is the use of tissue tolerable plasma in wound treatment. Stimulating not only wound healing processes but also the penetration of topically applied substances into the skin, this novel technique is expected to deliver very interesting results.
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