Multifunctional powder makeup with salicylic acid–cationic guar gum nanoplexes for acne-prone skin

IF 2.6 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

International Journal of Cosmetic Science Pub Date : 2026-10-05 Epub Date: 2026-02-24 DOI:10.1111/ics.70088

Itzel del Carmen Flores-Olvera, Abraham Josué Nevárez-Ramírez, Sergio Alberto Bernal-Chávez

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Objective

This study aimed to develop and characterize a multifunctional powder-based makeup incorporating nanoplexes (NPx) composed of salicylic acid (SA) and cationic guar gum (CGG) for potential application in the treatment of acne vulgaris.

Methods

NPx were synthesized via ionic interaction between negatively charged SA and positively charged CGG using a 2ᵏ factorial experimental design to optimize formulation parameters. The resulting NPx were characterized in terms of particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential and encapsulation efficiency using dynamic and electrophoretic light scattering. Additional analyses included FTIR, Raman spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The optimized NPx were then incorporated into a powder makeup base, also developed via factorial design, and evaluated for rheological and physicomechanical properties. Cell viability was assessed in HaCaT keratinocytes.

Results

The optimized NPx formulation exhibited high encapsulation efficiency (83% ± 1.01%), with an average particle size of 854 nm, a PDI of 0.885 and a positive zeta potential of 16.87 mV, indicating colloidal moderate stability and a positive surface charge compatible with dermal adhesion potential. Structural and thermal characterization confirmed successful encapsulation and compatibility of the components. The final powder makeup formulation showed suitable flow properties (Carr's index: 33.391% ± 1.85%; Hausner ratio: 1.50 ± 0.06; angle of repose: 59.87° ± 4.90°), and HaCaT keratinocyte assays demonstrated biocompatibility of Makeup, NPx and Makeup+NPx, with preserved metabolic activity and no cytotoxic effects at the tested concentrations, making it viable for cosmetic application while potentially delivering therapeutic effects.

Conclusion

This work demonstrates that the integration of SA–CGG NPx into a powder makeup base represents a promising strategy for acne-prone skin care and prevention. The resulting dermocosmetic product combines controlled SA delivery with aesthetic functionality, offering a multifunctional approach that supports skin balance while providing cosmetic benefits.

查看原文本刊更多论文

含有水杨酸阳离子瓜尔胶纳米复合物的多功能粉状彩妆，适合痤疮易发皮肤。

目的：研究水杨酸（SA）和阳离子瓜尔胶（CGG）组成的纳米复合物（NPx）在治疗寻常性痤疮中的应用。方法：利用带负电荷的SA和带正电荷的CGG通过离子相互作用合成NPx，采用2个因子实验设计优化处方参数。利用动态光散射和电泳光散射对NPx的粒径、多分散性指数（PDI）、zeta电位和包封效率进行表征。其他分析包括FTIR，拉曼光谱，热重分析（TGA）和扫描电子显微镜（SEM）。然后将优化后的NPx加入粉底中，同样通过析因设计开发，并评估了流变学和物理力学性能。在HaCaT角质形成细胞中评估细胞活力。结果：优化后的NPx包封效率高（83%±1.01%），平均粒径为854 nm， PDI为0.885，zeta电位为16.87 mV，胶体稳定性中等，表面正电荷与皮肤粘附电位相匹配。结构和热表征证实了组件的成功封装和兼容性。最终的化妆粉配方显示出合适的流动特性（卡尔指数：33.391%±1.85%；豪斯纳比值：1.50±0.06；休息角：59.87°±4.90°），HaCaT角质细胞测定显示了化妆、NPx和化妆+NPx的生物相容性，在测试浓度下保持了代谢活性，没有细胞毒性作用，使其在化妆品应用中可行，同时潜在地提供治疗效果。结论：本研究表明，将SA-CGG NPx整合到粉底妆中是一种有前途的痤疮皮肤护理和预防策略。由此产生的皮肤美容产品结合了控制SA交付与美学功能，提供了一个多功能的方法，支持皮肤平衡，同时提供美容的好处。

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来源期刊

International Journal of Cosmetic Science DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.60

自引率

4.30%

发文量

期刊介绍： The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes. The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.