A Workflow for Selecting, Profiling, and Optimizing Plant Extracts for Cosmetic Applications.

Abstract

In response to the growing demand for innovative natural ingredients in cosmetics, this study proposes a structured approach to identifying bioactive plant species available in France. From 1614 species screened for regulatory acceptability and innovation potential, 18 were shortlisted for phytochemical profiling (high-performance liquid chromatography [HPLC]-diode array detector [DAD]/evaporative light scattering detector [ELSD]) and in vitro antioxidant and enzymatic assays. A dual scoring system combining bioactivity and novelty metrics highlighted four promising species for cosmetic development. To explore how cultivation methods can optimize ingredient performance, Borago officinalis L., a fifth species with moderate initial scores, was selected for a case study based on its agronomic feasibility, identified with an industrial partner. Cultivated indoors under controlled conditions using a rotational geoponics system, borage showed improved antioxidant properties under low-temperature conditions. These findings provide a replicable workflow for sourcing plant-based natural active ingredients and illustrate how tailored cultivation can unlock the potential of well-known but underexploited species.