Marie Meunier, Morgane De Tollenaere, Cyrille Jarrin, Emilie Chapuis, Marine Bracq, Laura Lapierre, Catherine Zanchetta, Jean Tiguemounine, Amandine Scandolera, Romain Reynaud
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引用次数: 0
Abstract
Objective: Porphyrins are ubiquitous metabolites and are constitutive of the bacterial metabolome of healthy skin. Their consideration has until now been limited to their pro-inflammatory activity in acne vulgaris. The present work suggests a new role for these molecules in the onset of skin ageing.
Methods: A mixture of coproporphyrin III and protoporphyrin IX, representative of skin microbiota metabolites, was defined and applied in different skin models. Finally, an in vivo study was conducted to determine the association between porphyrin's abundance and ageing signs.
Results: Bacterial porphyrins penetrated stratum corneum and reached living epidermal cells. The porphyrin mixture increased IL-8, ROS and melanin contents. Porphyrin-induced melanin synthesis appeared to be regulated by translocator protein TSPO/PBR. In fibroblasts, bacterial metabolites down-regulated a set of transcripts involved in extracellular matrix architecture and associated with ageing, which was confirmed by a decrease of type I pro-collagen. Finally, the clinical study established positive and significant correlations between porphyrin abundance and the severity of ageing signs, including invisible spots, brown spots and wrinkles length.
Conclusion: In summary, porphyrins could play unexpected roles in skin's premature ageing process, a phenomenon we propose to call Porphyr'ageing, that promotes hyperpigmentation, inflammation, oxidative stress and fibroblast cell ageing, leading to dermal matrix weakening.
期刊介绍:
The Journal publishes original refereed papers, review papers and correspondence in the fields of cosmetic research. It is read by practising cosmetic scientists and dermatologists, as well as specialists in more diverse disciplines that are developing new products which contact the skin, hair, nails or mucous membranes.
The aim of the Journal is to present current scientific research, both pure and applied, in: cosmetics, toiletries, perfumery and allied fields. Areas that are of particular interest include: studies in skin physiology and interactions with cosmetic ingredients, innovation in claim substantiation methods (in silico, in vitro, ex vivo, in vivo), human and in vitro safety testing of cosmetic ingredients and products, physical chemistry and technology of emulsion and dispersed systems, theory and application of surfactants, new developments in olfactive research, aerosol technology and selected aspects of analytical chemistry.