Project CLEAR (ChemicaL Exposure and Awareness Research): A protocol for assessing the availability and chemical composition of skin-lightening products in Northern Manhattan.

Abstract

Introduction: Skin lightening products (SLPs) are widely used in communities of color and often contain toxic chemicals such as mercury and hydroquinone, posing serious health risks. Despite regulations, these products remain accessible through illegal sales and deceptive labeling. Targeted marketing in marginalized areas raises environmental justice and public health equity concerns.

Objectives: This study employs a novel spatial sampling approach to audit retail stores in Northern Manhattan, assessing the availability of SLPs in relation to neighborhood context. Products will be screened for harmful substances-including per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), parabens, and heavy metals-with results compared to ingredient labels.

Methods: Conducted in Northern Manhattan, New York City, this study focuses on neighborhoods with high proportions of Black and Latinx residents. Phase 1 involves a structured audit of 50 retail stores, including beauty supply shops and ethno-cultural retailers. Store selection is guided by spatial sampling and demographic data. Trained research assistants collect detailed information on store environments and individual SLPs. In Phase 2, 20 products will be purchased for laboratory analysis using advanced targeted and non-targeted methods. Analyses will include descriptive statistics, GIS mapping, and comparisons across neighborhoods.

Results: We expect beauty supply stores to carry a greater variety and volume of SLPs than ethno-cultural retailers, such as African markets, which are anticipated to sell mostly imported products. Chemical testing is expected to show that a substantial portion of SLPs contain hazardous chemicals, including some not disclosed on product labels.

Conclusions: Project CLEAR combines spatial methods and laboratory science to map SLP availability and assess chemical risks in Northern Manhattan. By linking store-level data with neighborhood demographics, the study highlights structural inequities and environmental racism. Findings will support future research, inform policy and regulatory efforts, and strengthen community advocacy for safer, transparent skincare products.