The role of mycosporine-like amino acids in skin care formulations: a patent review (2014-2024).

Abstract

In recent years, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have gained attention in skincare products due to their natural photoprotective and antioxidant properties. These water-soluble compounds effectively absorb ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B radiation, with molecular absorptivity ranging from 12,400 to 58,800 M⁻¹·cm⁻¹. This review analyzes patents filed between January 2014 and December 2024 related to the use of MAAs in skincare, identifying key trends and innovations. A comprehensive search of the European Patent Office yielded 14 relevant patents. These patents showcase the increasing use of MAAs in sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and antioxidant formulations, with features such as enhanced water resistance, increased sun protection factor (SPF), and defense against electromagnetic radiation. China and Denmark led patent filings, reflecting their focus on technological advancements. Additionally, MAA-based products showed improved stability and efficacy, offering natural alternatives to synthetic UV filters. MAA concentrations in products ranged from 0.001 to 15%, and their use in nanoemulsions and self-preserving formulations marked progress in cosmetic applications. This review highlights the potential of MAAs as multifunctional skincare agents and emphasizes the global trend towards incorporating these bioactive compounds into cosmetic products.