Synergistic Enhancement of Compromised Skin Radiance: A Clinical Investigation of Prinsepia utilis Royle Polysaccharides and Nonapeptide Co-Application

IF 2.3 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Pub Date : 2025-05-14 DOI:10.1111/jocd.70204

Chong Qin, Liu Zhang, Ruiqi Zhang, Bo Wang, Qin Zhang, Yannan Bian, Wenying Liu, Li He, Feifei Wang

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Background

Skin radiance represents both healthy and esthetic aspects of human skin, usually influenced by a compromised barrier and the aging process. The reduction of the stratum corneum by chemical peels is a prevalent procedure employed to enhance facial radiance, but peeling is not suitable for compromised skin.

Objectives

Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharides (PURP) is a natural extract with repairing properties, which has been reported as a barrier repairing agent. ESETRILLQ (EQ) peptide has been recently reported as a novel antiaging bioactive peptide. This study aims to investigate the combined efficacy of these two ingredients on skin radiance enhancement.

Methods

Reconstructed human full-thickness skin models were subjected to UVA exposure, followed by treatment with 1000 ppm PURP, 20 ppm EQ9, and their combinations: PUR9-1 (1000 ppm PURP + 10 ppm EQ9) and PUR9-2 (1000 ppm PURP + 20 ppm EQ9). Transcriptomic profiling was performed as a preliminary study to define the synergistic effect. RT-qPCR was performed assessing the regulation of skin barrier-related genes. Thirty-three Chinese sensitive skin individuals were enrolled in a placebo-controlled split-face clinical research for 2 weeks to evaluate a PUR9-2 containing lotion. Instrument measurement and expert evaluation were conducted to evaluate the parameters of glossiness and skin tone at baseline, Day 7, and Day 14. Skin glossiness was determined by VISIA 7, Glossymeter, and Translucency Meter. TEWL was determined by Tewameter Hex. Wrinkel number and area were obtained by VISIA 7.

Results

Transcriptomic profiling identified PUR9-2 to regulate significantly different genes distinct from PURP and EQ9. The combination increased the gene expression levels of TNFAIP3 and CRNN. PUR9-2 also increased the expression of FLG, LOR, and DSG1on UVA-irradiated skin model. PUR9-2 containing lotion significantly decreased TEWL by 16.96%. Clinical evaluations demonstrated a statistically significant 22.32% (Glossymeter) and 35.56% (VISIA 7) improvement in skin glossiness on the PUR9-2 lotion-treated side by Day 14 compared to baseline. Translucency demonstrated a statistically significant 13.06% increase of K value, which all aligned with the expert evaluation of skin radiance enhancement.

Conclusion

PCA analysis revealed PUR9-2 uniquely modulated gene expression compared to PURP and EQ9. Functional enrichment analysis based on Gene Ontology (GO) demonstrated PUR9-2 restored UVA-suppressed TNFAIP3 and CRNN gene. The results of RT–PCR also indicated that PUR9-2 enhanced skin barrier integrity in 3D models via upregulated expression of FLG, LOR, and DSG1. The Chou-Talalay method further validated PUR9-2's synergistic potency (CI < 1) in accelerating keratinocyte scratch wound closure. The clinical research demonstrated protective effects of PUR9-2 on compromised skin barrier and enhanced both glossiness of the sensitive skin surface and translucency within the skin structure. This study provides a potential solution for improving the radiance and overall conditions of compromised skin.

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协同增强受损皮肤光泽度：太子参多糖与非肽联合应用的临床研究

皮肤光泽代表了人类皮肤的健康和美观方面，通常受到屏障受损和衰老过程的影响。通过化学换肤来减少角质层是一种普遍采用的增强面部光泽的方法，但换肤不适用于受损的皮肤。目的太子螺多糖（PURP）是一种具有修复功能的天然提取物，被报道为一种屏障修复剂。ESETRILLQ （EQ）肽是近年来报道的一种新型抗衰老生物活性肽。本研究旨在探讨这两种成分对皮肤光泽的联合功效。方法在UVA照射下重建人体全层皮肤模型，然后用1000ppm PURP、20ppm EQ9及其组合PUR9-1 （1000ppm PURP + 10ppm EQ9）和PUR9-2 （1000ppm PURP + 20ppm EQ9）处理。转录组分析作为初步研究来确定协同效应。采用RT-qPCR评估皮肤屏障相关基因的调控。33名中国敏感皮肤患者参加了一项为期2周的安慰剂对照裂脸临床研究，以评估含有PUR9-2的洗剂。分别在基线、第7天和第14天对光泽度和肤色参数进行仪器测量和专家评估。皮肤光泽度采用VISIA 7、Glossymeter和Translucency Meter测定。Tewameter Hex法测定TEWL。用VISIA 7获取皱纹数和面积。结果转录组学分析发现PUR9-2调控的基因与PURP和EQ9有显著差异。联合用药可提高TNFAIP3和CRNN基因表达水平。PUR9-2也增加了uva照射皮肤模型中FLG、LOR和dsg1的表达。含PUR9-2的洗液显著降低水分流失16.96%。临床评估显示，与基线相比，第14天PUR9-2乳液治疗侧皮肤光泽度改善了22.32% （Glossymeter）和35.56% (VISIA 7)，具有统计学意义。半透明的K值增加了13.06%，这与专家对皮肤亮度增强的评价一致。结论PCA分析显示PUR9-2与PURP和EQ9相比具有独特的基因表达调节作用。基于基因本体（GO）的功能富集分析表明PUR9-2恢复了uva抑制的TNFAIP3和CRNN基因。RT-PCR结果还表明，PUR9-2通过上调FLG、LOR和DSG1的表达，增强了3D模型中皮肤屏障的完整性。Chou-Talalay法进一步验证了PUR9-2在加速角质细胞划伤愈合方面的协同效力（CI < 1）。临床研究证实PUR9-2对受损皮肤屏障的保护作用，增强敏感皮肤表面的光泽度和皮肤结构内部的半透明。这项研究为改善受损皮肤的光泽和整体状况提供了一个潜在的解决方案。

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来源期刊

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.30

自引率

13.00%

发文量

818

审稿时长

>12 weeks

期刊介绍： The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology publishes high quality, peer-reviewed articles on all aspects of cosmetic dermatology with the aim to foster the highest standards of patient care in cosmetic dermatology. Published quarterly, the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology facilitates continuing professional development and provides a forum for the exchange of scientific research and innovative techniques. The scope of coverage includes, but will not be limited to: healthy skin; skin maintenance; ageing skin; photodamage and photoprotection; rejuvenation; biochemistry, endocrinology and neuroimmunology of healthy skin; imaging; skin measurement; quality of life; skin types; sensitive skin; rosacea and acne; sebum; sweat; fat; phlebology; hair conservation, restoration and removal; nails and nail surgery; pigment; psychological and medicolegal issues; retinoids; cosmetic chemistry; dermopharmacy; cosmeceuticals; toiletries; striae; cellulite; cosmetic dermatological surgery; blepharoplasty; liposuction; surgical complications; botulinum; fillers, peels and dermabrasion; local and tumescent anaesthesia; electrosurgery; lasers, including laser physics, laser research and safety, vascular lasers, pigment lasers, hair removal lasers, tattoo removal lasers, resurfacing lasers, dermal remodelling lasers and laser complications.