Study on Moisturizing Effect of Dendrobium officinale, Sparassis crispa, and Their Compound Extracts

IF 2.3 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Pub Date : 2025-04-18 DOI:10.1111/jocd.70189

Hankun Ren, Peina Zha, Yueheng Liu, Weihong Zhang, Hong Meng, Taiju Di

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引用次数: 0

Abstract

Background

Recently, natural plants have been widely developed and applied in moisturizing cosmetics. Dendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo (D. officinale) is known as one of the “Nine Immortals” of Chinese herbal medicine, whereas Sparassis crispa (Wulf.) Fr. (S. crispa) is known as the “king of mushrooms”; both of which have excellent biological activity.

Aims

To explore the effects of D. officinale polysaccharide (DOP) with different molecular weights and S. crispa on the expression of moisturizing-related genes and verify the moisturizing performance of their complex.

Methods

PCR was carried out to explore the aquaporin 3 (AQP3), hyaluronic acid synthetase1 (HAS1), HAS2, and HAS3 genes expression. Immunofluorescence (IF) analysis was used to test the protein level expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), AQP3, claudin-1, and filaggrin (FLG) influenced by moisturizing composition in a reconstructed epidermis skin model. The ability of samples to resist cell drying damage was evaluated by a cell drying damage model. Furthermore, this study validated the effect of the compositions during their application in cosmetics through tests of skin moisture content, crow's feet, and skin elasticity.

Results

The results showed that DOP with molecular weights of 100 k–500 kDa (Dalton) had higher effects on AQP3 gene expression compared to that with molecular weights of 10 k–100 kDa and 1 k–10 kDa. Additionally, the extract of S. crispa significantly promoted the expression of HAS1, HAS2, and HAS3 genes, which are genes encoding hyaluronic acid synthesis. In addition, the mRNA and protein expression levels of HA, AQP3, claudin-1, and FLG were significantly increased as a result of the moisturizing composition consisting of DOP (100 k–500 kDa) and S. crispa. The application of the moisturizing composition markedly increased the skin moisture content, improved eye wrinkles, and enhanced skin elasticity.

Conclusions

In summary, our study proved that D. officinale and S. crispa had good moisturizing effects, and as natural plant humectants, they may have broad applications in future moisturizing cosmetics.

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铁皮石斛、石竹及其复合提取物保湿作用的研究

近年来，天然植物在保湿化妆品中得到了广泛的开发和应用。木村石斛（D. officinale）被称为中国草药“九仙”之一，而Sparassis crispa (Wulf。Fr. （S. crispa）被称为“蘑菇之王”；两者都具有优良的生物活性。目的探讨不同分子量铁皮石斛多糖（DOP）和crispa对保湿相关基因表达的影响，验证其复合物的保湿性能。方法采用PCR方法检测水孔蛋白3 （AQP3）、透明质酸合成酶1 （HAS1）、HAS2、HAS3基因的表达。采用免疫荧光法（IF）检测保湿成分对重建表皮皮肤模型中透明质酸（HA）、AQP3、聚丝蛋白-1和聚丝蛋白（FLG）蛋白表达的影响。用细胞干燥损伤模型评价了样品抗细胞干燥损伤的能力。此外，本研究通过对皮肤含水量、鱼尾纹和皮肤弹性的测试，验证了这些成分在化妆品应用过程中的效果。结果结果表明，相对于分子量为10 k-100 kDa和1 k-10 kDa的DOP，分子量为100 k-500 kDa（道尔顿）的DOP对AQP3基因表达的影响更大。此外，crispa提取物显著促进了编码透明质酸合成的基因HAS1、HAS2和HAS3的表达。此外，由DOP （100 k-500 kDa）和crispa组成的保湿成分显著提高了HA、AQP3、claudin-1和FLG的mRNA和蛋白表达水平。该保湿组合物的应用显著增加了皮肤水分含量，改善了眼部皱纹，增强了皮肤弹性。综上所述，我们的研究证明，officinale和crispa具有良好的保湿效果，作为天然植物保湿剂，它们在未来的保湿化妆品中有广阔的应用前景。

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来源期刊

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.30

自引率

13.00%

发文量

818

审稿时长

>12 weeks

期刊介绍： The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology publishes high quality, peer-reviewed articles on all aspects of cosmetic dermatology with the aim to foster the highest standards of patient care in cosmetic dermatology. Published quarterly, the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology facilitates continuing professional development and provides a forum for the exchange of scientific research and innovative techniques. The scope of coverage includes, but will not be limited to: healthy skin; skin maintenance; ageing skin; photodamage and photoprotection; rejuvenation; biochemistry, endocrinology and neuroimmunology of healthy skin; imaging; skin measurement; quality of life; skin types; sensitive skin; rosacea and acne; sebum; sweat; fat; phlebology; hair conservation, restoration and removal; nails and nail surgery; pigment; psychological and medicolegal issues; retinoids; cosmetic chemistry; dermopharmacy; cosmeceuticals; toiletries; striae; cellulite; cosmetic dermatological surgery; blepharoplasty; liposuction; surgical complications; botulinum; fillers, peels and dermabrasion; local and tumescent anaesthesia; electrosurgery; lasers, including laser physics, laser research and safety, vascular lasers, pigment lasers, hair removal lasers, tattoo removal lasers, resurfacing lasers, dermal remodelling lasers and laser complications.