Comparing the Gendered Esthetic Expectations of the Renaissance Between Italian (Marinelli) and Northern European (Liebaut) Perspectives.

Abstract

The aim of this study is to provide insights into broader societal values, the role of esthetics in self-presentation, and the interplay among health, morality, and beauty during the Renaissance by comparing the perspectives of Italian (Marinelli) and Northern European (Liebaut) authors. Giovanni Marinelli's "The Ornaments of Women" (1562) and Jean Liebaut's "The Embellishment and Ornament of the Human Body" (1582) were compared with a focus on historical and cultural exchange and gendered perceptions of beauty. Cosmetics, cosmetic surgery, hair, face, and breast were also examined. Marinelli advocated enhancing natural beauty through cosmetics and adornments, considering them legitimate tools for cultivating attractiveness. He supported these practices with medical reasoning, treating beauty care as an integral part of overall health. Liebaut adopted a more cautious stance, associating heavy use of cosmetics with moral corruption or deceit. Marinelli emphasizes symmetry and pallor as key indicators of feminine beauty, advocating for the use of masks and washes to attain smooth, pale skin. Liebaut, while concurring on the importance of symmetry and smoothness, adds a moral aspect by describing the face as a "mirror" of one's inner virtue. Marinelli emphasizes the importance of breast size and firmness, recommending specific lotions and massage techniques. He advocates for small, rounded breasts, which are viewed as symbols of youth and fertility. Liebaut approaches the topic of breasts from more clinical perspective, associating their care with maternal health and moral propriety. These differences are believed to stem from regional and societal variations between Italian and Northern European perspectives.