In Vitro, Ex Vivo, Instrumental, and Clinical Assessment of a Novel Anti-aging Serum Targeting Oxidative Stress

Abstract

Background

Primarily driven by oxidative stress, aging results from the attrition of cells, aggravated by environmental stressors. Therefore, protection from oxidative stress is the main target of antiaging cosmetics.

Aims

To evaluate the efficacy of a unique cosmetic serum combining five antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.

Methods

The inactivation of reactive oxygen species by the serum was evaluated in-tubo. IL-1α release was evaluated using EpiDerm^TM skin models, while gene expression analysis and elastin fiber length were evaluated on human skin explants. Finally, the effect of twice daily serum application for 28 days was compared to those induced by a control serum, focusing on instrumental and assessor evaluations.

Results

In-tubo, the serum reduces reactive oxygen species by 45.2%. A single topical application on EpiDerm^TM skin models limits UV-induced ROS-mediated IL-1α release. Compared to untreated explants, HB-EGF (heparin-binding epidermal growth factor) skin homeostasis marker expression increases by 22-fold with treatment. Additionally, the serum increases elastin fiber length by 40.2%. Clinically, twice daily application of the serum over a period of 7 days revealed significant improvements in clinical scoring of skin's wrinkle (−12.8%), smoothness (+12.5%), and radiance (+22.2%). The serum also leads to a rapid and long-lasting increase in skin hydration (30 min: +50.5%, 28 days: +19.9%) and reduced transepidermal water loss (30 min: −7.7%, 28 days: −8.7%). The serum is highly efficacious and well tolerated by the subjects.

Conclusion

The serum has antioxidant, soothing, photoprotective, and moisturizing properties that can be explained by the individual properties of its unique blend of actives.