In Vitro, Ex Vivo, Instrumental, and Clinical Assessment of a Novel Anti-aging Serum Targeting Oxidative Stress

IF 2.3 4区医学 Q2 DERMATOLOGY

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Pub Date : 2025-04-03 DOI:10.1111/jocd.16664

Sayantani Goswami, Jin Namkoong, Marwa El Hajoui, Ewelina Lesniak, Joanna Wu

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Abstract

Background

Primarily driven by oxidative stress, aging results from the attrition of cells, aggravated by environmental stressors. Therefore, protection from oxidative stress is the main target of antiaging cosmetics.

Aims

To evaluate the efficacy of a unique cosmetic serum combining five antioxidants and hyaluronic acid.

Methods

The inactivation of reactive oxygen species by the serum was evaluated in-tubo. IL-1α release was evaluated using EpiDerm^TM skin models, while gene expression analysis and elastin fiber length were evaluated on human skin explants. Finally, the effect of twice daily serum application for 28 days was compared to those induced by a control serum, focusing on instrumental and assessor evaluations.

Results

In-tubo, the serum reduces reactive oxygen species by 45.2%. A single topical application on EpiDerm^TM skin models limits UV-induced ROS-mediated IL-1α release. Compared to untreated explants, HB-EGF (heparin-binding epidermal growth factor) skin homeostasis marker expression increases by 22-fold with treatment. Additionally, the serum increases elastin fiber length by 40.2%. Clinically, twice daily application of the serum over a period of 7 days revealed significant improvements in clinical scoring of skin's wrinkle (−12.8%), smoothness (+12.5%), and radiance (+22.2%). The serum also leads to a rapid and long-lasting increase in skin hydration (30 min: +50.5%, 28 days: +19.9%) and reduced transepidermal water loss (30 min: −7.7%, 28 days: −8.7%). The serum is highly efficacious and well tolerated by the subjects.

Conclusion

The serum has antioxidant, soothing, photoprotective, and moisturizing properties that can be explained by the individual properties of its unique blend of actives.

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针对氧化应激的新型抗衰老血清的体外，离体，仪器和临床评估

衰老主要是由氧化应激引起的，由细胞的磨损引起，并受到环境压力的加剧。因此，防止氧化应激是抗衰老化妆品的主要目标。目的评价一种独特的由五种抗氧化剂和透明质酸组成的美容血清的疗效。方法采用试管法测定血清对活性氧的灭活作用。采用表皮mtm皮肤模型评价IL-1α释放水平，采用人皮肤外植体评价IL-1α基因表达和弹性蛋白纤维长度。最后，将每日两次血清应用的效果与对照血清诱导的效果进行比较，重点进行仪器和评估器评估。结果血清中活性氧含量降低45.2%。单次局部应用于表皮mtm皮肤模型限制了紫外线诱导的ros介导的IL-1α释放。与未处理的外植体相比，HB-EGF（肝素结合表皮生长因子）皮肤稳态标志物的表达在处理后增加了22倍。此外，血清使弹性蛋白纤维长度增加40.2%。在临床上，每天两次使用血清，持续7天，皮肤的皱纹（- 12.8%），光滑（+12.5%）和光泽（+22.2%）的临床评分显着改善。该血清还能快速持久地增加皮肤水合作用（30分钟：+50.5%，28天：+19.9%），减少经皮失水（30分钟：- 7.7%，28天：- 8.7%）。该血清非常有效，受试者对其耐受性良好。结论该血清具有抗氧化、舒缓、光防护和保湿的特性，这可以通过其独特的活性成分组合的个体特性来解释。

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来源期刊

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology DERMATOLOGY-

CiteScore

4.30

自引率

13.00%

发文量

818

审稿时长

>12 weeks

期刊介绍： The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology publishes high quality, peer-reviewed articles on all aspects of cosmetic dermatology with the aim to foster the highest standards of patient care in cosmetic dermatology. Published quarterly, the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology facilitates continuing professional development and provides a forum for the exchange of scientific research and innovative techniques. The scope of coverage includes, but will not be limited to: healthy skin; skin maintenance; ageing skin; photodamage and photoprotection; rejuvenation; biochemistry, endocrinology and neuroimmunology of healthy skin; imaging; skin measurement; quality of life; skin types; sensitive skin; rosacea and acne; sebum; sweat; fat; phlebology; hair conservation, restoration and removal; nails and nail surgery; pigment; psychological and medicolegal issues; retinoids; cosmetic chemistry; dermopharmacy; cosmeceuticals; toiletries; striae; cellulite; cosmetic dermatological surgery; blepharoplasty; liposuction; surgical complications; botulinum; fillers, peels and dermabrasion; local and tumescent anaesthesia; electrosurgery; lasers, including laser physics, laser research and safety, vascular lasers, pigment lasers, hair removal lasers, tattoo removal lasers, resurfacing lasers, dermal remodelling lasers and laser complications.